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  2. You could but for me I very rarely tilt the table to the right so I only need one of the, Jerry I glue it on then carefully sand up to the line on a 12" disk sander.
  3. As I stated earlier it is highly unusual for all of he LED to go bad so it points to the driver like Be O Be says. If it were mine And the MFG won't help I would fix it.
  4. Dave, good decision to be patient. I am also not sure when the Hawks went to the current style with top and bottom feed capability. And much better clamps. I bought my Hawk G4 26 in 2005 and I think it was a new design then. It is a bullet proof saw.
  5. Today
  6. Another welcome from Tennessee and from a German. I got my Bachelor degree in Erlangen, so I know it and Nürnberg well.
  7. I appreciate the comments. I think I will be patient and go to the midwest scroll saw show in Aug. I will be able to compare the Hawk with new Seyco. I like my Dewalt but I don't think it was built for the use I give it. I had my first one for nine months. The bearings went out of it add Dewalt replaced it with a new one. If been using my current one for about five months and it is starting to make some knocking noises just the same as my first one.
  8. Jim while you have been gone we have been having a ball. There has been almost no post on scroll saws. Can you believe it?
  9. Jim: I will turn on the flashlight tonight and you can "come toward the light". Just a minor upgrade compared to what we went through on the other site.
  10. Great advice from all previous posts on this subject! Bushton Mfg. did buy out the former RBI HAWK business, but through research & development has improved all models of scrollsaws, including the much older G426 which I have. Their customer service department is very knowledgeable on all the " new changes" and what can/may fit some of the older models. Be safe.
  11. I believe only the 14 - 16 inch saws had the tension lever at the back of the saw... the 20 - 26 inch saws had the lever up front... I would certainly test drive one if you are used to using a DeWalt... I bought a Hawk 220VS last fall for $100 that was said to be barely used.. well it was used more than barely but I don't think it was used a lot.. Got the Hawk foot pedal switch and light with it.. I upgraded the blower hose with the adjustable kind like the DeWalt has.. ( Hawk sells a kit for doing this ).. I love sawing on the Hawk.. but.. I find that after sawing ( production style ) for the last 6-8 years on my DeWalt..I have grown used to the aggressiveness of the DeWalt and I feel the Hawk is way too slow.. also the SPM is only ( I believe ) 1500 on the Hawk while it's 1750 on the DeWalt.. I will say the Hawk is a very well made saw and cuts nice.. I just got too used to stack cutting and production type cutting.. I typically cut 1/2" + on a regular basis.. If I am just going to cut 3/8" or less material I absolutely love the Hawk.. it does awesome with the thin wood.. and my DeWalt is too aggressive for the thin cutting.. The newest Hawk saws have an adjustable lower arm that will change how aggressive the saw cuts... Now I would love to try one of these out.. and they also have a faster SPM of 1750 I believe.. The older Hawks ( like mine) and probably all of the VS models have the lower barrel clamps. I was curious about the blade movement between the DeWalt and Hawk saws the other day so i went out to the shop and put a credit card behind the blade on both saws.. I was amazed to find that the movement is almost the same.... SO... what makes the DeWalt so much more aggressive? I think I figured that out but plan to do another test to see if I am right.. I think it's the lower blade clamps.. On the DeWalt the clamp is fixed to the back of the slot in the clamp and is fairly rigid .. on the Hawk the barrel is allowed to flex.. so I think if you was to push on the blade while cutting the barrel will just spin toward the back.. I believe the DeWalts clamping design makes the blade more ridged than the Hawks clamping.. I can cut probably 2 times faster on with my DeWalt than I can with my Hawk.. i have done this comparison several times with the exact same blade and while cutting out the same project.. In the middle of a cut I have stopped on one saw and took my blade etc over to the other saw... even if I run the SPM approximately the same speed.. the DeWalt cuts faster.. Really like to try the new BM series Hawks with that adjustable lower arm! Kevin
  12. Ok Jim you are here now, lets see some inlay!
  13. Don't know why, it works for me. Only time I have to log in is if I log out.
  14. The only real difference I see is that on the old site, I logged out each time, but checked "Remember Me." Each time I fired up the laptop, I was logged in. With the new site, It is also checked "Remember Me", but it doesn't. I log in manually, each time. Oh the agony of it all.
  15. I like your jig. I glue up pieces like that quite often and use clamps. But the time I get the boards, clamps and the sticks to hold it together in place, I look like I had a wrestling match with a glue bottle. Seems like that jig would be a big help. I love jigs.....
  16. Not sure but is the tension lever in the back? The older ones you had to reach to the back to adjust the tension. Not sure how much of a problem that was/is. I live in the north west and there are usually several Hawks listed on Craigslist. They usually run between $400 to $650 or there about. So $600 may be about right depending on the shape it is in.
  17. Dave, Contact Bushton they can tell you a lot better than I can. I know the Bushton models have updated electronics and motors, The blade clamps may also be different. Otherwise the saw is the same. Bushton's Phone is 6205623557. Hope this helps. Fredfret Wichita, Ks I drive a BM-26 and a Dw788.
  18. I currently have a Dewalt but I am shopping to upgrade. I am a top feeder. Been looking at a Hawk. I found this on Ebay. RBI HAWK 220VS Scroll Saw Brand New! It was purchased in 1999. He is wanting $600 for it. Have there been many upgrades since this saw was made? I would appreciate any feedback.
  19. Sorry to hear about your light Marg. I think you'll find that the problem is the "driver". Similar to a fluorescent ballast, usually small cube with two input wires( L/N ) and two output wires ( +/- ). You might unplug the unit and check the connections to the driver, rare for the LED's to go bad. As others have said, dust could be a problem on a circuit board. See if you can get a number off of the driver itself, they do make replacements. Voltage and wattage is what you'll need to order. In your case 220-240V. 9 watts. Hope this helps.
  20. Thanks for the suggestions and information. Will post the finished project.
  21. Yea it took me a short time to figure it all out.but it's cool now.You'll get the hang of it.and you will Love it.
  22. FYI I use Windows 10 and Microsoft Edge and I get a message that "ScrollSawVillage is not responding. Recover page". Very slow and it some times just won;t load the page. I also have Chrome and it works quite fine. I will switch to Chrome for this forum.
  23. A little bit of a learning curve so to speak. The updates that were done seem to be a positive so far. Patience and play a bit.
  24. I hope so too Rob.
  25. All is good Jim. You will soon get the hang of things because basically nothing much as changed and we are all still here, oh except for one apparently who was too impatient and took offence to the updates. Marg
  26. The saw will still be there waiting for you when your back is felling better Ike, you take it easy and rest up. Marg
  27. You are never going to get big money for your work from yard sales but if you are happy with that keep doing it. No one is having their arm twisted to buy your work and if you love what you do keep doing it. Marg
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