Buffalo Box--A Work in Progress

[campasano]

I compliment you on taking the time to go through every step of the process in making the box. It was a great tutorial and I am sure it has helped a lot of folks.

Mike

[wdkits1]

I will start by creating the scaled background for the intarsia. Using Word office 2007 I did the 6” x 8” pattern sheet that fits into the top recess of the box lid and put the oval 1/2 ” from the edges.


These are the subject photos that I will use for the intarsia. The first pic is from Buffalo Jack’s ranch in NC.






This is the first draft of the hand drawn pattern that I made. As you can see, there will be lots of tiny pieces that will test my scrolling skills.



Time to create the intarsia of the Custom Buffalo Box

[loghome]

Looks like a great project! Love that intarsia!Way to go will be tuning in again whenever that will be

[paul44224]

Thank you, Mike, for the wip pics! I have learned quite a few tips from them.

Paul

[grampa]

Thanks Mike, can't wait for the next bit....Paul

[wdkits1]

I will begin this stage of the intarsia process by resawing the wood that will become the background for the box lid. I am using Lacewood that will be bookmatched cut to 3/16”




After the resawing is done I have cut the bookmatched pieces to length and have placed them on the wokbench and beltsand them to remove saw marks. I like to set the pieces on a piece of 60 grit sandpaper to help hold them still while I sand them with the sander.


Bookmatched pieces sanded to 220 grit.


In this next photo I am tracing the outlines of the pattern onto sticky-back label paper,using carbon paper.


After cutting out the pattern sections I peel off the backing and place them onto the wood blanks .Ready for cutting


I use a #3 reversed tooth blade to cut the pieces splitting the pattern line. Take your time-stay on the line.


I purposely cut the outsides of the pieces a little heavy so I can adjust the fit with a little sanding for a good fit.


After removing the pattern from the pieces I use a 1/2” drum sander on the roto tool to round off the edges and sand the pieces with 320 grit. At this point I have cut a pattern and placed it into the box lid.I also have applied a coat of spray-on poly and wiped it off and set the pieces in place.


The bookmatched Lacewood should really look good after all of the finishing is done. Next segment will be cutting out the rest of the intarsia.

[wdkits1]

As most of you know, I finished the first buffalo box so what I am showing now is the intarsia of the second buffalo box. I worked out all of the pattern bugs on the first one so this one went a little faster. This first photo shows how I transfer the shape of the buffalo from the pattern to the sticky back label paper using carbon paper.The buffalo bodies are cut from 3/8” walnut,the heads are 3/8” peruvian walnut and the baby buffalo is 3/8”butternut.


The next photo shows cutting out the body of the big buffalo. I’m using a 2/0 double tooth blade for all of my cuts. I have also added a zero clearance table top (1/4” plywood) to the saw to prevent small pieces from breaking off or falling through the throat of the saw.


To take care of any gap between pieces, I hold the pieces together and run them through the blade.


The next photo shows the cut out pieces of the buffalos arranged on the pattern . Notice that the paper pattern has not been removed yet to make it easier to locate any carving and detailing areas.


Now is the time when I begin my shaping and carving of all the pieces. This is what will give the 3/D effects. I use different bits and sanders on the Dremal tool.


This next photo shows that I’m using a 5/64” high speed cutter to drill the hole where the eye goes.


I have formed a small dowel out of ebony to use for the eye by using a 1/2” drum sander until it fits snugly into the hole that I drilled.


I use a drop of CA glue on the end of the dowel and insert it into the socket. Hold it until it sets up.


After cutting the excess from the dowel I use a 1/4” drum sander to sand the ebony inlay flush.


I went ahead and cut the rest of the pieces for the buffalos and did most of the sanding and detail carving. To make it easier to assemble I like to glue small sections together to form larger units. To do this I have laid the tracing pattern down and taped a piece of clear plastic wrap over the pattern. I now put a little CA glue on the plastic and set the pieces in place on the plastic.




Here are the buffalo sections glued together. I still have more carving and sanding to do but it will be easier now that the pieces are together as a unit.


Once the glue sets up I can peel the units from the plastic and continue on with the rest of the intarsia.


Probably the trickiest part of this project is the fence. With a total of 30 pieces, most of which are less than 1/16” wide and 1/4” long it does take alot of time and patience to not make a mistake. I start by tracing the fence and mounting it to the holly, which is 1/4” thick. I drill 1/16” pilot holes to insert the blade to cut out the sections for the background.


Take your time and stay on the line.


Fence section complete—that was tough.


After cutting out the fence I think I’ll take a break—- to be continued.

[stevebuk]

great work so far, really enjoyed looking through this thread, cant wait to see it finished.

[wdkits1]

Hi Folks
Sorry it has taken so long to post the last installment of this WIP but anyways here it is.

Buffalo Box-- Gluing up and finishing
Well I managed to get all of the intarsia pieces cut, shaped and fitted into the lid of the box so now it’s time to glue everything in place. I like to remove a few pieces at a time and glue them in. In these photos I use a pin to pry a piece up so that I can apply CA glue.




I will continue removing pieces and applying glue until all pieces are glued into place.



Everything is glued in and looking good.



Once the glue is dry, it’s time to apply the finish to the intarsia. I like to use a spray-on satin poly for my finish. I begin by blowing off any dust that might be between the pieces. Because the box itself will be finished with a wipe on poly, I mask off the top edges of the lid with packing tape and spray the top from all directions to get in -between all pieces. Three coats will do it.



I’ve gone ahead and applied the three coats to the lid and wiped on three coats to the box. Now it’s time to install the hinges. I begin by taping the lid to the box, carefully lining up the corners. I position the hinges and tape them in place.



In the next photo, I’m using a 1/16” drill bit to drill pilot holes for the #2×3/8” screws.



To keep from twisting the heads off of the screws, I dip the screws in vegetable oil.
Hinges installed.



Well the box is done except for the inside lining.This photo shows the material that I will be using to line the top and bottom of the box. I use a rotary cutter and a square to cut the material.





Once the material has been cut, I like to treat the edges with Fray-check to prevent fraying.



I install the fabric using clear fabric glue around the edges and throughout the center.



Here I have attached the wood description list to the back of the box, signed and dated—-DONE





One pair of custom Buffalo boxes ready for delivery.

[Clayton717]

looks awesome Mike. Thanks for showing us.