Joe Peacock Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I have been scroll sawing for a while and I just started making puzzles. The locking tabs are driving me crazy! I am pretty good at general outline shapes making things for my Grandkids but when I try to make puzzles with locking tabs things go awry! I have a Seyco saw and I have tried the FD Superior puzzle saw blades and their #2 and #3 and # 5 blades. Naturally the bigger the blade the sloppier the fit between pieces. When I use the puzzle blades things go kind of OK until I try to turn the corner to make the stem and then the"bulb" on the interlock. From that point on the saw seems to take on a mind of its own and goes way off pattern. I have tried more tension, lower speed and lower feed rates. I have cut practice pieces till I am blue in the face and I sure would appreciate any advice I can get! Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOE_M Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 If it's doing that on thick stuff then I dunno. If it's doing that on thin stuff then try adding a sacrificial backer board. You'll find the puzzle blade cuts a bit slower, giving you more time to do all the pivoting you want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Peacock Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I forgot to say I am cutting 1/4" baltic birch. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 First of all, welcome to the Village Joe! I hope we can help you with your problem. The FD Puzzle blades are a 3/0 skip tooth blade. I have had no luck with FD blades smaller than a #1. I just tried some FD Ultra Reverse # 2/0 blades recently and I could not control them. When I cut jigsaw puzzles I use Olson 2/0 skip tooth blades. They are a lot easier to control. I haven't tried their 3/0 blades because I don't have any, but it might be a blade for you to try. i also don't use a pattern. I have always cut them free hand. It's hard to see it, but my Avatar is my first jigsaw puzzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I don't normally do puzzles. But in my experience I have found that speed is the man culprit. Patience is a virtue and learning is a curve. With 1/4 " i really take my time as there is little forgiveness using it. The best I can offer is practice, practice and more practice. Trust me it pays off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekud1946 Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 (edited) I cut a lot of puzzles and I use #5R FD blade. I use 3/4" wood. Just make sure blade is square to table top. Duke https://www.etsy.com/shop/DukesScrollSaw?ref=hdr_shop_menu Edited July 15, 2017 by ekud1946 amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I cut some picture puzzles with 1/8" and 1/4" Baltic Birch and I use a FD puzzle blade with no issues. My saw is an EX -21. I cut them one at a time. I would love to see a picture of your issue. I cut my puzzles free hand following the outline of images in the picture. My locking tabs are not fancy but they work. I just make little loops and indents. Don't over thinking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I've only done a handful of puzzles.. I used 1/4 BB ply and a puzzle blade.. had the same issues as you are having.. I was lucky enough to have a couple different saws to cut on... I tried a different saw.. and was able to do them better.. Now that I have more experience I can cut them on any of my saws but will admit.. they are easier to cut on my Hawk now than they are on my DeWalt.. The DeWalt is very aggressive cutting saw.. the forward / back motion of the blade up against the ridged blade clamp really makes it difficult to cut thin wood with fine detail ( puzzle bulbs etc ).. Back then I didn't have a Hawk but I had a old Delta.. I personally found back then that going very slow with saw speed made it easier.. but now I think the faster the saw runs the easier, LOL I also found that I was pushing on the wood too much as I was used to cutting thick 3/4" hardwoods.. If you have a saw that you can adjust the forward / back motion.. I'd adjust it to not move very much..otherwise.. it's just going to take a lot more practice, and a wood pile of ornamental fire wood, LOL Best of luck, Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Sounds like you are trying to follow the pattern exactly. With puzzle patterns, you don't need to be on the line like in other work. If the blade starts to stray, just continue ntil you are back on the line. The puzzle will work and no one will notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Just a thought, if you're going to try a #3 blade try FD . I like Olson and use them but there # 3 can't follow a straight line. Of course that may be just be my saw or me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 18 hours ago, ekud1946 said: I cut a lot of puzzles and I use #5R FD blade. I use 3/4" wood. Just make sure blade is square to table top. Duke https://www.etsy.com/shop/DukesScrollSaw?ref=hdr_shop_menu I agree with that wholeheartedly.as i always forget to check before starting a puzzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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