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Here is a fun little project you can knock out in an afternoon. These little wooden jack-o-lanterns will certainly delight and add some spooky decor to your house this Halloween. This project is made from cedar fence boards, so they're super cheap to make, and they look great! Step 1 I'm using cedar fence boards. Not only are they super cheap (between $3-4 per board) they have a rough-sawn look that will really make the project look great! The cedar fence boards have little fuzzies on them. Using 80 grit sandpaper, I knock off those fuzzies. I don't want to get it too smooth. The character of the uneven surface and milling marks is what makes this project sand out. Step 2 I'm cutting down each of the panels on the table saw. You can certainly cut out the panels with your scroll saw using the full-sized drawings in the pattern. I'm making 2 jack-o-lanterns, so I doubled the number of panels I need. For each pumpkin, I need two of each of the following: Top & Bottom 5.5"x5.5" Front & Back 4.5" x 6" Sides 3.5"x6" Caps & Inset 3.5"x3.5" Step 3 I like to paint the inside of the jack-o-lanterns so it reflects the light better. It's easier to paint them now than later. For the front and pack panels, I'm taping up the edge. I don't want any paint on these edges, since it will be visible on the outside. Step 4 I'm giving it a quick coat of white primer, followed by a quick coat of yellow spraypaint. I don't worry too much about perfect coverage. In fact, it looks better when there is variation in the coverage. Step 5 I grab my front panel and attach my scroll saw pattern to it. I use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then stick it to the front. Step 6 At the drill press, I make pilot holes for the blade to fee through. You can also use a regular hand drill. Step 7 These patterns are really easy, and you'll be able to knock these out in a few minutes. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 8 Time for assembly. I'm using standard wood glue and brad nails to pin it together. You can also use regular hammer and nails. Just be careful not to split the wood. Step 9 For the bottom, II put the box on the bottom panel and trace around it. I'll use this as a guide so I know where to put my brad nails into. I don't do any measuring, just eyeball it. Step 10 With the traced side facing up, I lay down a bit of glue. I know where the perimeter of the box is, so I know where to drive my nails into. Step 11 The inset is supposed to fit inside the box so the lid nestles in nicely. This will be a bit too big and will require some trimming. Just trim off a little on each end until it fits. I don't like it too tight, just enough where it will settle in nicely. Step 12 I glued and sandwiched the top panel between the inset and the cap piece. The cap is only decorative. I didn't bother nailing this one. I just put a little weight on the top and let the glue dry. Step 13 With a propane torch, I went outside and scorched the box. This is a lot of fun and will make your jack-o-lantern look awesome. Keep the flame moving, or you'll get uneven scorch marks. Step 14 I'm using a water based stain from Minwax I got at the big-box store. They can tint the stain any color you want. Naturally, I chose pumpkin orange. I applied the stain fairly heavy, then when I was done with the side, I quickly removed the excess with a paper towel. For the face, I dabbed on the stain, trying hard not to get it into the cuts. I found it easiest to work on one side at a time. Apply stain, then quickly wipe it away. Step 15 I found a stick outside and started stripping away the bark. We'll use this as our stem on our pumpkins. I like to find interesting parts of the stick, just to add a bit of interest. Step 16 On the scroll saw, I trimmed off sections of the stick to make the stem. I also sanded the bottom edge on a belt sander to get it flat. Step 17 I drilled a hole through the top of the box. I also drilled a pilot hole into the bottom of the stem. I'll attach the stem with a screw that goes through the bottom of the box and into the stem. Step 18 I painted the stem with regular craft paint. I painted it on and quickly wiped off the paint with a paper towel before it dried. This gives the stem a stained look and you can still see the wood grain. Once dried, I attached the stem to the lid with a screw from below. I also tied a bit of raffia around the base of the stem for a little extra pizzazz. Step 19 I'm using battery-powered fairy lights. I like this set because it had different displays, as well as a remote and timer. I've put a link to the ones I got here. Happy Halloween! Final Project

Here’s a fun little project, just in time for Halloween. I used a cedar fence board to make these cute segmented candy corns. It features a rough and rustic look. I show you how to add an aged patina to the project for that vintage folk art look. This project can be easily batched out and finished very quickly to add to your spooky Halloween decor. Step 1 First, sand down some cedar fence boards from the home center ($2-3/board) with 80 grit sandpaper. Don’t sand it completely smooth, just enough to remove the splinters. We want it rough. Step 2 Sketch out the basic candy corn shape. It’s just a triangle with rounded corners. Two curved lines in the middle make up the candy corn color bands. Don't make them all the same, vary the size and shape a bit to keep things interesting. Step 3 Cut the board down to something more manageable. Step 4 Cut them out on the scroll saw. I’m using a #9 scroll-reverse blade. Cut out the perimeter first, then come back and do the bands. Keep each set of pieces together. Step 5 With a rotary tool (like this one) and a small sanding drum, knock off the edges. Be a little rough with them so as to give them an aged and worn look. Step 6 Time to add paint. The bottom is orange, the middle is yellow, and the top is white. Don’t get hung up on getting it perfect. If it's rough, it'll add to the final look. Step 7 With 80 grit sandpaper, sand each piece. Sand away the paint on the edges and high areas revealing some bare wood. Step 8 Glue your pieces together. I’m using wood glue. They don’t need clamps but be sure to clean out any glue squeeze-out. Step 9 Time to add the weathering. I use a medium wood stain and paint it on really thick. With a clean rag, wipe off the excess and set it aside to cure. Step 10 I use furniture wax to soften the feel and protect the wood. (I like Howard Citric Shield.) Glop it on thick and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then with a clean rag, buff off the extra wax. I use a toothbrush to get the wax out of the cracks and crevices. Set aside to cure. Step 11 The wax will build up in the recesses and may give some parts a cloudy look. You can use a heat gun to melt the wax and let it soak back into the wood. Final