What blades, what brand, where to buy?

[OCtoolguy]

I know I keep asking crazy questions but I need to know a few things regarding blades. I have a DW 788 and it uses pinless blades. I bought a gross of 2/0 blades from Otto Frei but I was wondering what blades a person should have around for all the different types of wood and cuts that he/she might be making. I bought a couple of pkgs of Olson blades at Woodcraft in skip/reverse blades from Woodcraft. But, my question is, if I was to order blades from a Flying Dutchman source and I wanted a good selection of blades on hand, what blades do you suggest? If I wanted to buy a gross or two would the supplier be willing to mix in order to get the gross figures? I was trying to cut some 5/16 BB plywood yesterday with a 2/0 blade and it was very slow going so I changed to one of the reverse/skip tooth blades in a courser configuration. I am very new to this and I was trying to cut out a large butterfly with a lot of inside cuts. Once I changed the blade it went quite well so I decided that I need to have a good selection of blades. So, can you all give me a good basic list of what I should try to have onhand?

 

Thanks so much for your patience and help. Here is a pic of what I did yesterday. It's 8.5 x 11 and I thought it would make a good first attempt.

 

 

Ray

 

[gator]

short answer i only buy flying dutchman just like them personally. i use 3/0 spiral for all my fine picture (scienary) work. i keep #3 #5 #7 reverse tooth for straigh line cutting. use smallest i can get away with. thin wood. 3/4 oak #7 dont cut much that thick but thats what i use. good luck and thats what we are all here for to learn and help each other. no question is a bad question just not asking is wrong question. i know mike offers a sample pack getone of those try them and see what you like

Edited March 2, 2015 by gator

[Jim Finn]

I use flying dutchman polar #5 to cut 3/4" thick hardwoods.  I do not do fretwork.

[Scrappile]

When I started I purchased Mike's (Mike's Workshop) varity pack.  It gave an idea of how different blades cut.  They are all #5 but you can still get a good idea from them.  Then I would order the ones I liked best in different sizes.  For portrait type cutting, which is what I have done mostly I use the 3/0 Spiral.  I have tried other sizes, but always go back to that one.  I have done very little word type cutting so I really do not know what the commons ones for that are.

 

From the looks of your picture you are starting out fine.  Just keep expermenting and you will hit the blades you prefer.

Edited March 2, 2015 by Scrappile

[Clayton717]

Don't buy blades from the big box stores. They are cheaper online and better selection.  I only use Flying Dutchman blades now. I used to use olsens too but like the way the FD blades cut. There are a few places online to buy them, I order mine from the http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=550. You can mix and match blades to get the gross pricing. In fact I just placed and order for 2 gross with a mixture the most of one blade size being 7 dozen.  I order from the wooden teddy bear mainly because I buy other supplies and sometimes a pattern I see that I just can't live without. Another place is https://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm lots of people use Mike for blades.

 

 I use the scroll reverse blades in sizes #5 & #7 mainly, but do smaller sizes to like 2/0, 1, 3 and bigger # 9.  I use the 5 & 7 for cutting hardwoods for intarsia, the 5 works well for me for scrolling in 1/8" BB (I do stack cut though) the smaller blades are nice for those thin interior cuts.

[Fishman]

Out of the blades I've tried, I really like Flying Dutchman the best. I was in the same boat as you, wasn't sure what to get and all. I just ordered some #5, #7 and Superior Puzzle Blades.

 

The puzzle blades are great if you're interested in making puzzles, or really small cuts with a very thin kerf. As for the #5 and #7 they seem to be pretty well rounded and I have been able to do everything I've wanted to do with them.

 

With that said, I'm going to order some more soon and am going to get #9 as well. Now that I know I like the brand, I'm more comfortable buying different sizes. I want to try a spiral blade too I think.

 

I bought them here: http://www.scrolleronline.com/category/471

 

Hope that helps a bit.

[heppnerguy]

 All the blade purchase places mentioned in the above posts are good ones. There is also    https://www.thewoodenteddybear.com and several others. Be sure you listen to Clayton's clue about the big box stores, because he is exactly right. Most of the blade sellers allow you to choose a mix and match gross costs. One thing that I have found out is, everyone has their own particular blades that seem to work best for them. That is what you will  need to figure out for yourself. I Use a lot of double toothed blades because they are not as aggressive as a lot of the others, making them easier to keep on the lines and make sharper turns, for me. On 3/4 inch wood, I prefer the scroll saw reverse tooth blades.  I also have found if I use too small of a blade I do not do as well with staying on the pattern line and I get a lot of blade wondering.. That is just how it works for me. Others will argue. The spiral blades have a lot of good things that can make your cutting a lot easier and quicker, but for others like myself, I just can't seem to get them to work very well for me and I avoid them all together.. Try them though..

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[OCtoolguy]

Wow, thanks everybody. I will check out all the places mentioned. I hadn't even given any thought to the spiral blades. I am primarily interested in marquetry using very thing veneer. That's why I bought the 2/0 blades. I took a class to learn the basics but before I get too far into that I thought it would be good to learn the basics of the scroll saw. So, I downloaded a few patterns and I had some 5/16 " baltic birch plywood that I had purchased cheap because it had water stains on it. I cut up one piece into 8.5 x 11" pieces to practice with. As I mentioned, the 2/0 blade didn't do well on wood that thick. After changing to one of the other blades I had, it went much better. I will finish up the butterfly tomorrow. 

 

I'm going to take the advice of buying the starter pack of blades and see what works best. I went to Mike's site and the blade charts just intimidated the heck out of me. So, that's why I came back here and posed my question. As usual, you folks have outdone yourselves with all the advice. Thanks so much.

 

Ray

[LarryEA]

My f-a-v-o-r-i-t-e is: Sloan's Woodshop - " The Scroll Saw Store "

[dgman]

As a scroll saw instructor, I start my begginer students off with Olson #5 skip tooth blades. They are a good over all blade to learn on. once they progress through the class we move on to reverse tooth blades. For new students Olson blades are less agresive than Flying Dutchman blades.

Personally, I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. They are an agressive blade, but suite my style. I stock FD UR blades in sizes of 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. They do not come in 2/0 but I use a lot of 2/0 blades. I haven't found an FD 2/0 blade that works for me, so I use Olson Skip Tooth 2/0 blades.

I also stock FD New Spiral blades in various sizes for portraits and I use FD Polar 3, 5 and 7 blades for compound cutting. For zig saw puzzles, I use Olson 2/0 blades.

 

P.S. I buy my FD blades from Mike, www.mikesworkshop.com, and Olson blade at Sloans, www.sloanswoodshop.com. You can mix and match any size of the same type to make a gross.

Edited March 2, 2015 by dgman

[amazingkevin]

What Blade Should I Use

[amazingkevin]

I have on hand ,at least a dozen of every blade the "flyingdutchman.com " has for sale.That way i always have what i need when i need it!

[Lucky2]

Ray, if you really want to know what type of blade you should be using for different projects, contact Mike at mikesworkshop.com and talk to Mike himself. He will explain to you what each type of blade is best for cutting whatever your want to cut. Plus, while your at his site you can read up on Flying Dutchman blades and some of Mikes' history. He will exchange e-mails with you, and if there's something you need to know about scrolling just ask him. Mikes a great guy, and he will do what he can to help you out. I know he did with me, when I was first starting out.

Len

[LarB]

I swear by Flying Dutchman blades including spiral , and buy the 'intro' packs of each kind ... yes I go through blades :-) but there's nothing worse than using a blunt one and having to throw the piece on the burning pile!! I do fretwork, scenic and scrolly writing - nowhere near as professional as the legends here but I'm having fun! Hope this helps, and I concur with what Len and others have suggested. Cheers and Happy Days!!

Lorie

[ike]

I buy all my blades at woodcrafters, they are closet to where I live and when I go there there is a fabric store and she gets her needs at that time. I use #3 for fretwork ( all Olson  blades)

and #5 & 7 for hard woods. don even think about  big box store blades.

[browders]

I too am an Olson user. I think FD makes a well crafted blade, I just have a hard time controlling it when cutting thinner stock. For me (and I realize this probably says more about me than the blades) it seems the FD blades are very unforgiving. My tension level rises as I try to cut a pattern and it ends up being not much fun.

 

Try several brands and types. Use what works for you. All the brands have some positive qualities otherwise they would no longer be in business.

 

Jim

[OCtoolguy]

Someone above mentioned something about blades that are worn out. Other than breakage, how do you know when it's time to change a blade out? I used one #5 reverse tooth blade on my butterfly project and it seems to still be going strong but I don't now what to look for. I didn't see any burn marks if that is an indication but what else?

 

Ray

[Scrappile]

With spirals, they stop cutting good.  You have to push harder and that distorts the cutting.  You can feel it.

[OCtoolguy]

I haven't tried spirals yet. I'm waiting right now for a reply from Mike. I questioned him as I did here. I hope I get something soon.

 

Ray

[dgman]

Someone above mentioned something about blades that are worn out. Other than breakage, how do you know when it's time to change a blade out? I used one #5 reverse tooth blade on my butterfly project and it seems to still be going strong but I don't now what to look for. I didn't see any burn marks if that is an indication but what else?

 

Ray

I teach my students that when the blade no longer cuts the way you want it to, it's time to change it. That means if it lasts the whole project or just one cut. Change it when it isn't working for you. Blades are cheap, it's not worth my time and effort to cut with a dull blade.

[jamminjack]

Someone above mentioned something about blades that are worn out. Other than breakage, how do you know when it's time to change a blade out? I used one #5 reverse tooth blade on my butterfly project and it seems to still be going strong but I don't now what to look for. I didn't see any burn marks if that is an indication but what else?

 

Ray

Hey Ray

for me I find when the blade will starts to wander, or I find myself pushing a little harder, or the blade is not holding the line like it first did.  That's when I change the blade..

As you will find out blades are cheep....  Change often and you will have a enjoyable session on the saw....That's what is all about..

[OCtoolguy]

Well, here I sit on the second day and still waiting to hear back from Mike's. Are they usually this slow in returning an email inquiry? I hope their service is quicker if I decide to buy from them. I know you all have said that they are fast but so far, I'm not too impressed. Hope it's just that they are very busy.

 

Ray

[heppnerguy]

I agree. All of a sudden you realize that you are pushing your blade through your work. The job may still get done without a burning or even a wondering but if the blade is not easily cutting itself through the project easily on it's own, it is time to change the blade. sometimes I like my blades a little dulled if I am cutting thin boards with a lot of small fret work because the blade is now not quite as aggressive and i can make the sharp pointed areas without worrying about it cutting a small rounded area instead of a nice sharp pointy cut that I need there, and I do not need to attack that spot from two different direction but just rotate the piece and continue on with my cutting and it is still a very sharp looking, small cut, like I am after. 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[OCtoolguy]

I must have missed the correct address for Mike's Workshop. I just went there and found the link for his variety pack. I have ordered it and now I will sit and wait patiently for it to arrive. Thanks to everybody for your help.

 

 

Ray

Edited March 4, 2015 by octoolguy

[LarryEA]

I must have missed the correct address for Mike's Workshop. I just went there and found the link for his variety pack. I have ordered it and now I will sit and wait patiently for it to arrive. Thanks to everybody for your help.

 

 

Ray

Ray, next time try sloanswoodshop, they sell good blades and they answer the phone.