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Pegas blades


Bfreeman

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After seeing so many comments on these Pegas blades I thought I would give them a go so bought the modified and some spirals too. The mg ones are very nice and found they cut very well I tried on lots of material from album vinyl to cherry. I even stacked some ply to over an inch and they still performed ok. The spiral ones I am not to sure on I have a Hegner so not a top loader I found the spiral blades are very brittle and snapped quite a few whilst trying to get through drill hole from underneath any slight bend in the blade and snap where as the Olsen ones I use are much more flexible so yes the MG ones are good and I will be buying more but the spiral blades they are too brittle and  not for me but may be fine if you have top loader saw I guess.

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Based on some good reviews on the forum, I ordered a dozen each of the 2/0, 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 12 modified geometry blades. I will probably end up using mostly the #3s and the #5s but I wanted a bunch of sizes to experiment with. They were back ordered on the #5 for a bit but are now on their way. Can't wait to try them out.

I ordered all sizes also... I have been using the pegas blades for over a week and really like the blades... so far I have been doing some smaller detail cutting on some clock pieces and have been using the #3 blades (modified geometry) with great results.....

It looks like the Pegas blades may become my "go to" blades

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I got 2 doz of the 3 and 5 sizes.

So I tried the 3 yesterday but I couldn't figure out which way is up on the blade. It seems like half of the teeth go up and half down. So I made a few cuts and the blade kept grabbing the wood up, i had a hard time holding it down. So I thought I may have had the blade upside down.

Any comments on my experience???

Thank you

Sam

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I just received my shipment of Pegas Modified Geometry blades and I tried the #5 this morning and was pleased with the ease of cutting thru 1/2" Red Oak. It cut smoothly and was amazed on how the blade followed the line throughout my cutting,staight and curved lines. After 2 hours of constant cutting the blade was just getting some what dull.

This will be my brand of blades from now on. It has my vote of confidence.

 

Mike

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Sam 777,

I found the best way to figure out which end is up, is to lay the blade on my saw table. Bam! Right away, I can tell. I do have a hard time if I hold it up and try to decipher up or down.

Hope this helps.

I'm currently working on a clock that is all 1/4" Baltic birch. I'm using the modified geometry #3, and it works well and lasts longer than any of the other blades that I have.

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Sam 777,

I found the best way to figure out which end is up, is to lay the blade on my saw table. Bam! Right away, I can tell. I do have a hard time if I hold it up and try to decipher up or down.

Hope this helps.

I'm currently working on a clock that is all 1/4" Baltic birch. I'm using the modified geometry #3, and it works well and lasts longer than any of the other blades that I have.

Thank you Matt,

I don't see anyone else complaining about the up/down orientation of these blades.

I guess it is JUST me.

I will follow your way of checking the direction of the teeth.

Thanks again

Sam

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I agree with Gonzo ...I also hold a piece of white paper behind the blade especially with smaller teeth to make it easier to see

When I open a new bundle I figure out which end is the top and then put the remaining blades in the holder with the top up.... they all come out the same way 

 

Great tip, Dave.  I'll have to start doing that as well.  Sometimes the smallest things, make time at the saw more enjoyable.

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