Blade selection

[Retired Scroller]

I really need someone some advise on selecting a blade for fine detail work, particularly with tight radius. I am currently stack cutting 2, 3/16" walnut pieces using a #2 dbl tooth. The tight radius ends up with a choppy cut. Could use some help here please.

[Rockytime]

If it were me I would use a a #1 blade. Perhaps a FD #1 Polar. You will get many different opinions. All of which may be valid.

[Bill WIlson]

Just so I understand the problem;  Do you find your blade too aggressive or not aggressive enough?

What saw are you using?

Personally, for fine detail I like to use the smallest blade that will readily cut the thickness of wood I'm using.  My current go-to blade is either an Olson #3 MS or a #1 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse.  For that thickness, I doubt I would go much smaller.

[OCtoolguy]

I am using the Pegas MGT blades for most everything in either a 3 or 5 but in your case maybe a 1 would be better. Everybody has their own opinions on blades though. Good luck on whatever you choose.

 

[SCROLLSAW703]

Well, first of all, if I'm understandin' your post correctly, you are wantin' blade information for cuttin' fine detail in two 3/16" thick walnut pieces that you are stack cuttin'? Am I correct? If so, it ain't no wonder your #2 dbl tooth blade is leaving a choppy cut. In all honesty, I'm surprised you're gettin' it to cut at all without destroyin' your project.

On the upside, walnut is fairly easy to cut, but it has a tendency to be a little brittle, so caution and patience is required in the cuttin' process. Make sure your saw deck is good and waxed, and clean. Were it me, I would use a #1 polar blade, or even possibly #0. Depending on how intricate the work you're doin' is. 

Regardless of saw breed, you're also goin' to want to check your thumb screws, top and bottom to make sure you've got a good grippin' surface on the face of the screws. If not, Lightly run your thumb screws over a piece of 220 grit sandpaper until the shiny spots are cleaned off the face of your screws.

Cuttin' with smaller blades, being square to your deck is important not only for blade life, but for proper cuts in your project. You can check your tensioned blade for square with a business card. 

Blade tension and speed is also important in thin, minute detail work. Tension your blade tight, and keep your blade speed down to a minimum. Try to let the blade do the work. Your project will turn out better.

Best of luck!

Sawdust703(brad)

[Old Joe]

All great advice from Scrollsaw703. Personally, I would use either a FD Ultra Scroll Reverse # 2 0r #3, or the Pegas MGT's. I really think very sharp scroll reverse blades are called for here.My apologies to the Olson fans, but I really don't put them in the same league with the FD and Pegas blades. Just my humble opinion. I find in the 2/0 and #1's from  Pegas are very aggressive and I need to slow my saw speed down with them. The FD's don't seem quite as sharp when brand new, but seem to last a little longer in my experience. I also think each saw and scroller are different.

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Old Joe said:

All great advice from Scrollsaw703. Personally, I would use either a FD Ultra Scroll Reverse # 2 0r #3, or the Pegas MGT's. I really think very sharp scroll reverse blades are called for here.My apologies to the Olson fans, but I really don't put them in the same league with the FD and Pegas blades. Just my humble opinion. I find in the 2/0 and #1's from  Pegas are very aggressive and I need to slow my saw speed down with them. The FD's don't seem quite as sharp when brand new, but seem to last a little longer in my experience. I also think each saw and scroller are different.

The last thing you said is most meaningful. I'm still in the learning/experimental stage. So far I have had success with all the brands of blades. For me, I'm still figuring out what the different blade "types" are and when to use each one. I was using a reverse blade for everything until I did my first 3D project. That's when I found out about the need for a non-reverse skip tooth blade. I was advised to use a "skip-tooth" blade to clear the sawdust out of the kerf. Wow! What a difference. Life is all about the learning experience. That's what makes this forum so valuable.

Edited February 4, 2019 by octoolguy