adhesive

[Louie]

hello all just a quick question . as far as adhesive to hold patterns on wood ,what type of adhesive works best so that's its an easy removal from your work?

[Foxfold]

You'll get a lot of answers to this question, but here's mine..  I spray the back of my pattern with a repositional craft glue, wait a few minutes and then put directly onto my wood. When I've finished cutting I wipe with a little 'White Spirit' and the pattern lifts straight off.   I do a lot of 'intricate' stuff and my fingers are not good enough to pick and pull blue tape off the wood.  Here's a pattern that I took off my wood after cutting.

[Scrappile]

I've tried all the methods that I know of and I agree with Brenda.... More specific on the adhesive I prefer 3M 77 but there are many brands of spray adhesive.  I remove my patterns with Mineral Spirits,, which is probably the same thing as Foxfold  refers to as "White Spirits".  There are a lot of other ways, and I am sure they will be mentioned here... Hang on...

[kmmcrafts]

I need to give this method a try one of these days now that I have some ( 2 gallon ) of mineral spirits sitting around not knowing what to do with it.. I bought 3 - 4 gallon jugs of it for cleaning car parts when rebuilding a engine this summer.. I only used one of the gallons, LOL Guess I over estimated that one..LOL.. so I'm going to give this method a try soon..

I normally use the self adhesive shelf liner to stick to the wood then print my pattern on full sheet self adhesive shipping label papers... the liner peels right off the wood great.. The labels do not.. I tried that and ended up making campfire with that project, LOL

IF I do happen to use spray glues.. I like 3M-45 and 3M-77 best.. 

[Scrappile]

I purchase Mineral Spirits by the gallon,, a gallon last me well over a year... It only takes a little on a paper towel to remove a pattern.. a little more to remove  any adhesive left on the piece..

[Dave Monk]

I've been using this method for the last couple of weeks on puzzles. Previously I have always put shelf liner on the wood before gluing my pattern on.  It may be my imagination but it seams that my blades are not staying sharp and cutting slower than with using shelf liner.  I've read where some claim that they use packing tape to help aid in blade lubrication. Could shelf liner do the same?

[kmmcrafts]

7 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I've been using this method for the last couple of weeks on puzzles. Previously I have always put shelf liner on the wood before gluing my pattern on.  It may be my imagination but it seams that my blades are not staying sharp and cutting slower than with using shelf liner.  I've read where some claim that they use packing tape to help aid in blade lubrication. Could shelf liner do the same?

Yes, there was a discussion on this a few years ago. Someone was talking about the "releasing agent" that they use on tape and shelf liners so they can peel back off is some sort of lube type stuff that helps keep blades running cooler.. I forgot about that part of it.. so I think I'll probably not use this method. I may "try" it and it might be handy for some small quick projects.

Thanks for reminding me of that..

[new2woodwrk]

On 11/16/2021 at 5:15 PM, kmmcrafts said:

,,,..

I normally use the self adhesive shelf liner to stick to the wood then print my pattern on full sheet self adhesive shipping label papers... the liner peels right off the wood great.. The labels do not.. ,,,

I'm using some labels now since 3m 45 got scarce for awhile.

I put the label directly on the wood. To remove, I use a heat gun and it peels right off without issue

Just thought I'd share that in case you hadn't tried the heat gun

As to the OP

i use 2 methods, my preferred is with Duck brand clear shelf liner with adhesive and 3m 45 spray adhesive. I put the shelf liner on the wood, then spray the pattern and adhere it to the liner. It comes off very easily.

I have recently started using label paper on some placing ti directly on the wood. See note above - to remove the pattern, requires a heat gun

I prefer not to use any chemicals on the wood to remove the patterns - Mineral Oil AFAIK never dries completely and since I use an acrylic spray on some of my pieces, I don't want the oil to interfere with the setting of the finish

Edited November 18, 2021 by new2woodwrk

[Tomanydogs]

8 hours ago, new2woodwrk said:

I'm using some labels now since 3m 45 got scarce for awhile.

I put the label directly on the wood. To remove, I use a heat gun and it peels right off without issue

Just thought I'd share that in case you hadn't tried the heat gun

As to the OP

i use 2 methods, my preferred is with Duck brand clear shelf liner with adhesive and 3m 45 spray adhesive. I put the shelf liner on the wood, then spray the pattern and adhere it to the liner. It comes off very easily.

I have recently started using label paper on some placing ti directly on the wood. See note above - to remove the pattern, requires a heat gun

I prefer not to use any chemicals on the wood to remove the patterns - Mineral Oil AFAIK never dries completely and since I use an acrylic spray on some of my pieces, I don't want the oil to interfere with the setting of the finish

You’re using Acrylic spray? I’ve not heard of this. Do you mix it yourself or do you purchase it in that form? Thanks. 

[FrankEV]

Wondering where the OP is....no comebacks.

I still prefer the shelf liner under the pattern which I then attach with 3M-77.   I've used the direct attachment but the glue residue is a problem for me and the fact the wood soaks up some of the mineral sperits that has to dry is a bit annoying.   And, I find the MS does change the color of the wood slightly.  OK, if being painted but not OK if wanting to be left natural with just a clear coat.

For Tomanydogs, Acrylic Spray is a water based  version of a polyurethane. Available wherever stains and polys are sold.

Edited November 18, 2021 by FrankEV

[new2woodwrk]

On 11/18/2021 at 4:37 AM, Tomanydogs said:

You’re using Acrylic spray? I’ve not heard of this. Do you mix it yourself or do you purchase it in that form? Thanks. 

It is a Krylon spray product - it is a clear acrylic spray. I just started using it on specific products.

My original finishes for non-puzzles included:

• Dipping in Oil and a shellac spray finish - stopped that - took too long to dry enough to finish
• lacquer spray - too costly but looked real nice - brought out the grain without using the mineral oil
• lacquer spray with Poly urethane spray coat - did this for almost a year - was the best finish yet. But got expensive over time as we started to sell more product
• lacquer spray with SPAR urethane spray coat - Still do this for customers putting my product outdoors or near a window with direct sunlight access
• Acrylic Clear Gloss spray - Using this now, one coat does it - more economical and looks fine

Hope that helps

Edited November 22, 2021 by new2woodwrk

[barb.j.enders]

I have been using this - https://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/scroll-saw-stick-and-release-tape-12-20-p-4418.html - to attach my patterns to the either painters tape or shelf liner that I put on the wood.  No mess/fuss.  I have been putting the trimmed pattern on the one side of the tape, cut around the pattern then put it on the wood.  First time I used it, I put the tape on the wood, then the pattern on the tape.  The pattern wasn't the same size as the tape and it was a "sticky" cut!!

[TAIrving]

For my latest project I got lazy and applied the patterns on self-adhesive labels directly on the wood - and it peeled off nicely.  

I used good hardwoods (cherry, black walnut and mahogany) and sanded/polished them up to 1000 grit, so the surface was hard and smooth.  And I am using the least expensive full sheet labels I could find online.  And the patterns were on the wood for just an hour or so.  

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, barb.j.enders said:

I have been using this - https://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/scroll-saw-stick-and-release-tape-12-20-p-4418.html - to attach my patterns to the either painters tape or shelf liner that I put on the wood.  No mess/fuss.  I have been putting the trimmed pattern on the one side of the tape, cut around the pattern then put it on the wood.  First time I used it, I put the tape on the wood, then the pattern on the tape.  The pattern wasn't the same size as the tape and it was a "sticky" cut!!

That looks interesting but pricey.

[John B]

I cover the timber with blue tape and glue the pattern to it with a glue stick. I don't get the expensive tape, just a generic brand. Have never had a problem.

 

[barb.j.enders]

On 11/22/2021 at 12:20 PM, OCtoolguy said:

That looks interesting but pricey.

Probably more pricey than most other stuff, but I do like the no fuss.  If I was doing this as a money maker, wouldn't use the product but it is still just hobby status.

[preprius]

Before I joined the village, I saw a post about this scroll saw double stick roll. So I bought it.  I do use it  It works great. But it is pricey.  I have not used it up yet.  I dont scroll saw alot. But it does work good. You only cut out what you need. So with me doing intarsia humming birds , and bowls, the 30ft went a long way. A dollar a foot.  Before i bought that i used $1 per sheet of sticky clear labels.  but trying to just cut a small item out and send a partial sheet through the printer was a bad thing to do. So the double sided removable film was much better choice.

I did go to wallmart and get the cheap duck brand removable shelf paper "clear" and will try that next. 

[Bucky 80]

I use a layer of Glad "Peel n Stick" on the would  (put on with a laminate roller) and then repositional spray glue on the pattern, stuck to the peel and stick.