Tallbald Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 (edited) 2 inch thick capacity on so many saws. I must wonder though if that's for softer materials than hardwoods. My saw is a Jet 18 inch, and I'll use my Pegas blades (unsure yet what TPI). I do use clear shelf liner top and bottom, top side also painter's tape and spray adhesive pattern attachment method. Opinions appreciated and thank you each and all. Don. Edited June 8, 2023 by Tallbald Quote
Sycamore67 Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 You can do that but will be very slow. You should use a skip tooth blade. tomsteve and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
BadBob Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 I have cut 2-inch hardwood. It is slow and very difficult. Watch where your fingers are, as you can get them hammered easily. I cut this toy truck's body on my scroll saw. I would not do it that way again. don watson, OCtoolguy and Sycamore67 3 Quote
don watson Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 At that thickness I would (and have) use Pegas MG blades, #3, #5 and #7. Around the outside of the pattern you could use the largest of the blades you can get but I still like the MG blades. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Tallbald Posted June 8, 2023 Author Report Posted June 8, 2023 Thank you all. I sometimes have wondered if my machine will be damaged cutting thick hard wood. But I guess any tool has a purpose, that being to do the job. There are sacrificial parts in anything I do understand. don. don watson and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 I would think that you would dull/break a bunch of blades, scorch a lot of wood and give up on cutting before you were in any danger of damaging the saw. OCtoolguy and don watson 2 Quote
Scrappile Posted June 8, 2023 Report Posted June 8, 2023 3 hours ago, BadBob said: I have cut 2-inch hardwood. It is slow and very difficult. Watch where your fingers are, as you can get them hammered easily. I cut this toy truck's body on my scroll saw. I would not do it that way again. Something like this you could cut as two halves (on half could have the "stripe" glued on) and the glue the halves together a little sanding. done. OCtoolguy and don watson 2 Quote
BadBob Posted June 9, 2023 Report Posted June 9, 2023 19 hours ago, Scrappile said: Something like this you could cut as two halves (on half could have the "stripe" glued on) and the glue the halves together a little sanding. done. Yes, you can, but getting the windows lined up by sanding hardwood in something this thick is a pain. It is easy to get them right if it is all cut in one piece, and I don't screw it up. OCtoolguy and Jim Finn 2 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted June 9, 2023 Report Posted June 9, 2023 57 minutes ago, BadBob said: Yes, you can, but getting the windows lined up by sanding hardwood in something this thick is a pain. It is easy to get them right if it is all cut in one piece, and I don't screw it up. This is probably one application where scroll saw sanding files could come in handy "IF they work like they claim" ... I'd probably also consider just using a woodburner or even paint the window details rather than cut it.. That's just me.. I know some like to follow the book and make it how it should be and price the products accordingly... just takes a person that knows the trade to see the value in those fine details and the average person won't see that value or detail for that matter. Also if I was doing a lot of projects like this I think rather than a scroll saw I'd be looking at the Pegas bandsaw. BadBob 1 Quote
Sycamore67 Posted June 9, 2023 Report Posted June 9, 2023 I would not use Pegas MG blades on thick woods as they have reverse teeth and not as efficient at clearing sawdust from the kerf. Pegas makes a skip tooth blade that will cut thick wood better. OCtoolguy and don watson 2 Quote
Joe W. Posted June 9, 2023 Report Posted June 9, 2023 5 hours ago, Sycamore67 said: I would not use Pegas MG blades on thick woods as they have reverse teeth and not as efficient at clearing sawdust from the kerf. Pegas makes a skip tooth blade that will cut thick wood better. Thanks for that thought. Now I only have to remember it when I want to cut thick wood OCtoolguy and don watson 1 1 Quote
Wichman Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 I have cut 1 1/2 inch purpleheart on my Delta two speed, no real problems, just go slow and keep an eye on the motor temp. With your saw I would do the recommended maintenance on the saw before and after cutting the puzzle ( checking the brushes ). OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Jim Finn Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 Depends on the saw. I killed a DeWalt scroll saw in less than 2 years, cutting 1 1/2" thick toys. (Hundreds of them) I bought a Hegner and it still works for this, after 15 years. I also have a 1988 Jet scroll saw that I also use for making hundreds of toys every year for over 10 years now. I use Olsen PG blades for toys. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Tallbald Posted June 10, 2023 Author Report Posted June 10, 2023 Thank you each and all. I suppose I'll just use the tool as it's rated to be used. I doubt I'll be sawing this thickness as an every day thing, but the occasional use up to capacity wouldn't constitute "abuse" I don't think. Don. don watson, OCtoolguy and Jim Finn 3 Quote
BadBob Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 22 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: This is probably one application where scroll saw sanding files could come in handy "IF they work like they claim" ... I'd probably also consider just using a woodburner or even paint the window details rather than cut it.. That's just me.. I know some like to follow the book and make it how it should be and price the products accordingly... just takes a person that knows the trade to see the value in those fine details and the average person won't see that value or detail for that matter. Also if I was doing a lot of projects like this I think rather than a scroll saw I'd be looking at the Pegas bandsaw. I would love to have a Pegas band saw. These trucks were an experiment to test the saw limit and mine and a learning experience. I have made trucks with round windows that are easy to drill with a quality bit, but I don't care for the look of them. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
BadBob Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 I cut this dragon puzzle from a piece of southern yellow pine 2x8 on an EX-21. Southern Yellow Pine is extremely difficult to cut. The winter wood is very hard, and the summer wood is soft. I sold this about a week after I made it to a very pleased customer that left me a 5-star review. Ever since then, I had considered making another, but I can't bring myself to do it. There is no finish on the puzzle. OCtoolguy, JessL and Jim Finn 2 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted June 18, 2023 Report Posted June 18, 2023 On 6/9/2023 at 10:58 PM, Tallbald said: Thank you each and all. I suppose I'll just use the tool as it's rated to be used. I doubt I'll be sawing this thickness as an every day thing, but the occasional use up to capacity wouldn't constitute "abuse" I don't think. Don. when cutting that thick, i like to turn the saw speed down a bit to help keep the blade cooler. since my excaliber doesnt have a very large stroke length, i also back out of the cut occasionally to help sawdust get out of the way OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Davevand Posted June 19, 2023 Report Posted June 19, 2023 If I am cutting thick wood, ie. over 1" (or hard wood like thicker white oak) I will apply the shelf liner on both the top and bottom of the piece I am cutting. I also can use cheap masking or packing tape following the cut line on the bottom of the piece if I am cutting something like a backer for a plaque or cross. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
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