tomsteve

tom here. or steve. depends on the day. usually tom,though. steve makes the mistakes.

one thing on the EX sold at home depot- it may be a knock off. if i recall, manufacturing was first in canada and then moved to taiwan. there are EX knockoffs made in china being sold. the serial# tag has the country of manufacture. i read recently of someone getting the EX from HD and the tag said made in china and he was having problems out of the box.

the table being that rusty makes me wonder what any electrical connections and the inside of the motor look like. duct tape around the top by the tension lever isnt a valued option on that saw either.

bob, do you happen to have a workbench you could build a downdraft table into? no pics of mine, but thats what i did. when necessary, i can lay a piece of ply over the top for a work surface. plus, parts dont fall through the holes that way.

i have 3 spray guns. they arent bad to break out on larger projects( like computer desks, kitchen cabinets, tables, vehicles) but i tend to dislike them on smaller stuff. they lay a great finish no matter what( id sure hope my copper tekna would- i paid pretty good money for it1 ). but cleaning them- it got old cleaning after 30 minutes of use. i bought my first rattle can of lacquer this weekend. dont know why i waited so long.

that varies. some use MDO for the sign itself. oneshot sign paint is used a lot in outdoor sign making. i think a lot depends on what the customer wants and where the sign will go. as for outdoor finish, i have had the best luck with sherwin william A100 non tinted. acrylic/water based clears will hold up and last longer than oilbased on signs. another good clear finish is general finishes exterior 450. as for the auto paint on exterior work, ive done some. sherwin williams ultra 7000 clear, nason 496 clear, and southern polyurethanes universal clear. of the 3, the SPI lasted the longest, but the wood movement caused them all to crack eventually. no matter the finish, if its on wood and goes outdoors, there will be maintainence.

i think we both highly respect those that make the videos, but i also agree. it woulkd be like learning to ballroom dance and watching pros make it look real simple- id get frustrated. i think the 3 questions posed has the same answer as an old jack benny joke: how do you get to carnegie hall? practice,practice,practice.

ray, i think something to look at with an ROS is the orbits per minute and the size of the throw. i have 2 different ROS. well, actually 3, but ones specifically for auto detailing-the porter cable 7424- massive throw and i can polish up a finish real nice. the other 2- a porter cable and dewalt 5" both have different OPM and throws. i used the porter cable on fretwork as it has a smaller throw and less OPM.

Alder is a dream to cut.

yeah, i think its 24' by 24' sheets?

i typically make my own frames.i usually dont like to add glass, mainly because of the glare. what material do i like to use for frames? thats hard saying. quite a bot of that depends on the project. i dont like to get too elegant to subtract from the work that its framing, but some projects i like to do something fancy, like the serenity prayer- that frame is made from 4 different profiles stacked.

ive done many detroit red wings wheels, the tigers old english "D"', and the lions logo. no problems whatso ever. were small people- the nfl,nhl.nba,ncaa,mlb- they have bigger fish to fry.

this picture should show what i do- just some simple twine using some super glue to attach to back

im in the middle of a bathroom remodel so no- dont wanna show my workbench. LOLOLOL i think my tool box it on it,though. specifically scrollsawing....hhmmm. id have to say the mini drill chuck is only used for scrollsawing. and my benchtop drill press. i dont seem to use that much for anything else since i got a floor model.

so basically, its narrowed down to what ocooch sells. so its narrowed down to Ash Sel & Btr 4/4 $3.20 Aspen Sel & Btr 4/4 $2.50 Alder Superior 4/4 $4.95 Basswood Sel & Btr 4/4 $3.10 Basswood Sel & Btr 8/4 $3.50 Butternut Sel & Btr 4/4 $7.80 Bubinga Sel & Btr 4/4 $14.40 Red Cedar #1 Com & Btr 4/4 $3.25 Bloodwood Sel & Btr 4/4 $15.75 Cherry Sel & Btr 4/4 $4.50 10"+ Cherry Sel & Btr 4/4 $6.00 Cherry Sel & Btr 8/4 $6.90 Hard Maple Sel & Btr 4/4 $4.65 Hard Maple Sel & Btr 8/4 $5.65 Lacewood Sel & Btr 4/4 $16.50 Mahogany Sel & Btr 4/4 $7.50 Mahogay Sel & Btr 8/4 $7.75 Padauk Sel & Btr 8/4 $10.50 Padauk Sel & Btr 4/4 $10.00 Poplar Sel & Btr 8/4 $3.50 Purpleheart Sel & Btr 4/4 Purpleheart Sel & Btr 8/4 $11.10 Red Oak Sel & Btr 4/4 $3.75 Red Oak Sel & Btr 8/4 $5.15 Soft Maple Sel & Btr 4/4 $4.95 Walnut Sel & Btr 4/4 $8.75 10"+ Walnut Sel & Btr 4/4 $10.00 Walnut Sel & Btr 8/4 $9.50 Curly Maple Sel & Btr 4/4 $3.75 White Oak Sel & Btr 4/4 $5.18 Zebrawood Sel & Btr 4/4 $20.00 Wenge Sel & Btr 4/4 $20.00 Yellowheart Sel & Btr 4/4 $12.15 Canarywood Sel & Btr 4/4 $20.00 Beech Sel & Btr 4/4 $2.70 QTR. Sawn White Oak Sel & Btr 4/4 $5.45 there- that should make it easy!!

ok, beings how ya bought them from ocooch, i think that narrows down the choices to what they sell. exotic #5 is probably yellowheart. #1 of the exotics i doubt is walnut as that is a domestic.im still leaning towards bubinga on 1 and 6 in the domestics, you may have a piece of alder in there-#7. hard telling, but the smell can determine,too- cherry and alder have different smells.cherry burns pretty easy when machining,too. you can also do the taste test.

ok,new, i think we've waited long enough give us pictures!!!! actaully, just a bad jeopardy experience for me last night. i need easier, more fun quizzes. something without opera,16th century poets, or shakespere.

or top feed.:) i dont top feed.

ya know, FD makes a blade with a little indent on the top end of the blade. cant remember exactly which ones they are, but sure make figgerin it out easy peasy.

one thing to look into,jim, is if the logs came from the trunk or branches. branch wood will have some internal stresses in it, and sometimes those stresses can be quite high and come out all at once with a POP!! while machining. beautiful wood,though.

i cant believe i never thought of that! im always leaning over to the side.LOLOL thanks,jerry, for the tip!

heck, i have days i cant follow a crooked line! im not sure if youre aware, but scrollsaws will have a drift- trying to feed at a 90 degree to the blade doesnt work to get a straight line. i have to feed at an angle from the right side. the best advise i can give at this time is keep constant pressure letting the blade do the work and look ahead of the cut. i have noticed better control with straight cuts when i have the saw speed up higher,too. what type of wood are you cutting? that can factor in,too also, cutting with the grain can be a bugger- it always easier to cut straight against the grain.

im wondering if something with birds or leaves would go with the deer https://cherrytreetoys.com/bird-lamp-shade-plan/ i saw a scrollsaw lampshade with leaves through it but ill be darned if i can find it again

iguanadons henry( i think his name is?) makes some awesome puzzle patterns. i have a collection of Jeff Zaffino patterns and love the detail in them.

are you looking for something like this: https://www.thelogfurniturestore.com/whitetail-deer-lamp-shade