Can any one help with a router

[Jumpjet1127]

I have a square piece of wood I want to make in to a box, what is the procedure to make the sliding lid .

 

The lid needs to be a sliding lid like an old school pencil box I have a 1/4 inch bit to put in my router . Do I take the sides off first or do I take the lid off first?

[Jumpjet1127]

Don,t worry Rob Roy has filled me in with the necessary advice on the ways and the means of a Router . Does any body else use one.?

[Scrappile]

I do when the need arises.  I have mine mounted in a cabinet.  I'm afraid I don't understand your question.

[amazingkevin]

A special bit will do it quick an easy for you.A two  flute dove tail will work for you,Use half of the bit on each side of the box sides  and the reverse on the lid.

[Jumpjet1127]

So I assume I take off the sides of the box first use your 2 fluted bit on them and then slice off the top of the box to use as the lid ?

[Phantom Scroller]

I'm sure Rob has come up with a solution here's a simple one. Roly

 

[Jumpjet1127]

Thank you Roly Rob Roy suggested the same u tube video. After watching the video a few times it sunk in and with what Kevin said as well it made sense . You lot are most help full. I think my next purchase after the full helmet respirator, will be a router table. I think I need to get a bit of my savings out.

[Rob Roy]

I'm sure Rob has come up with a solution here's a simple one. Roly

 

Hey You, I'M the SIMPLE one, Roly.      

[amazingkevin]

SMILES!

[Phantom Scroller]

Hey You, I'M the SIMPLE one, Roly.      

Great minds as they say Rob.   

[LarryEA]

^{I got here as quick as I could... but I'm too late.}

^{Good thing I came because now I know how it's really done.}

[Scrappile]

Oh, oh, now I know what was being asked?  Duh on my part!

[Rob Roy]

Great minds as they say Rob.   

When you live in a madhouse like ours Roly, the great minds come up with the same bl**dy nonsense       .

Rob Roy.

[oldhudson]

The WWMM video sure shows one method using a router and a sliding dovetail.

 

Or you could use a stright bit to do the job, getting away from the dovetail. I think sliding dovetails are a little fussy. With the correct size stright bit, cut stopped grooves in the two sides. Then take the top section and run it through the router to cut a matching tongue.

[amazingkevin]

Good one BERRY !

[Jumpjet1127]

I certainly got you lot talking about something different, and I learnt a hell of a lot, thanks to you all. When my son -in-law visits I shall have the courage to get the router out and get him to do the grooves then I will have the confidence to use the router on my own, the world is my oyster I could make some amazing things.

[oldhudson]

I certainly got you lot talking about something different, and I learnt a hell of a lot, thanks to you all. When my son -in-law visits I shall have the courage to get the router out and get him to do the grooves then I will have the confidence to use the router on my own, the world is my oyster I could make some amazing things.

Let me pass on a couple more thoughts. I think a router table is needed but you can get by with a simple one. I made first router table and used it for years before I purchased one from Rockler. Unfortunatly, I damaged that one with a careless operation and tossed it purchasing a Kreg unit last year.

 

Because my shop is smallish 12' x 14' I don't leave the router table set up. I mount the table to a Black & Decker Workmate (I don't know if those were marketed in the UK or not - they were/are very popular here) when in use and put the table and Workmate on a shelf when it's not needed. See pics. (the pics are pretty old but I still use this system)

 

There are a couple of important rules. When chucking a bit in the collet, don't let the shank rest on the bottom of the collet, pull it up a little (1/&") so when the bit is drawn tight it can move down some. Likewise where the shank meets the cutter head there is a small radius. If that radius rests against the collet, when the collet is tightened, the collet will not fully tighten against the shank, as it should, and can work loose. Obviously you don't want a loose tool turning at 18,000 rpm. So pull the bit up a wee bit so it's not resting on the collet before tightening.

 

The other item is the direction of feed. In a router table, the bit rotation is counter-clock-wise, thus work should pass from right to left. The rotation of the bit pulls the work toward the fence. None-the-less  you really need to hang on to stock when passing in through a router operation. As a rule of thumb I try to take multiple shallow passes on a cut to minimize the forces. I'm a big chicken and frankly a router can be intimidating.

 

I find the router hand held or mounted in a table one of the most useful power tools I own. (I have four two Craftsman, a Bosch and a DeWalt.) I've found Patrick Spielman's book The Router Handbook a great benefit. It's one of dozen or so books that stay in my shop as reference.

[Jumpjet1127]

Many thanks Berry some real good advice there I will keep it all in mind , we do have a work mate but that belongs to hubby so I need to get a work table with stand. My cabin is practically the same size as yours 13foot x 13foot, but I have a space ready for the table so no worries there. i am looking at a router table with folding bench at Axminister tools I have have a triton BST252. 1250w. I have especially taken note on the advice re fitting the bit in the collet . Thank you for your time in replying to this thread much appreciated. Another piece of interest you say work should pass from right to left. Me being mainly left handed I naturally go from left to right. I found out while I was having wood turning lessons that you have to work with your right hand takingg the lead on the tool as the spindle was turning towards you, that was hard teaching my brain to lead with the right hand but I succeeded and turned a lovely bowl and kitchen paper stand.

Edited November 5, 2014 by Jumpjet1127