Table replacement for EX16

[scrollerpete]

I purchased an Excalibur 16" that was used in a High School, so  it was a little beat up specially the blade entry hole and also lot's of scratch on the table. I contacted Ray at Seyco and the do not have any replacements tables. I try General in Canada their phone messages box is full and so far no answer to my email. Any suggestions will be helpful.  I could use the magnetized top of Seyco saw but like I said the opening where the blade is quite large.

[Scrappile]

You could take your table to a machine shop and see what it would cost to have one made.  Or you could cover yours with something like 1/8' masonite.  I did not care for the magnetic top on my Seyco.  I covered my top with masonite and fixed to so I could have Zero clearance inserts.

 

[tgiro]

When you put a layer on top of a table you loose some of the depth of the cut. When my EX-21 table started to scratch & chip. I used a piece of formica (What most counter tops are made of). I went to a local cabinet shop and found they have cutoffs (or cutouts) galore. They sold it to me for about 50 cents a square foot. And I got enough to cover the saw table and a bunch of my more permanent glue-up jigs.

I stuck mine to the table top with double sided rug tape, but you could use contact cement for a more permanent solution. I wax mine periodically with Johnsons paste wax.

If you do a lot of glue up, I can recommend formica as wood glue doesn't stick to it. If it does dry, it chips off very easy.

[munzieb]

I have a EX-16 with a similar problem. Deck is fairly well scratched up. We have a powder coating shop down the street and have considered getting an estimate. I can't address the enlarged hole blade hole directly but like all EX units, it came with a lower vacuum attachment port. It kept getting blocked up from smaller fret pieces falling through and the vent holes were a distraction. I was pushing the blade through the wrong hole because I top feed. I removed the port and I had considered soldering the holes shut but eventually filled them with epoxy. I had to do 2 coats since the 1st coat created dips in the holes. It's all very smooth now. This may also be a solution for the enlarged blade hole. Fill it with epoxy and then bore it out to the proper size.

[hotshot]

I consider a weathered table a symbol of pride :-). However, you do have some options.  King has the same saw, so see how that support mechanism works and get a table from them.  Also, just sand the finish off the entire table (or use a solvent).  You should be able to easily sand to a reasonable finish, then wax.  

[tgiro]

30 minutes ago, hotshot said:

I consider a weathered table a symbol of pride :-). However, you do have some options.  King has the same saw, so see how that support mechanism works and get a table from them.  Also, just sand the finish off the entire table (or use a solvent).  You should be able to easily sand to a reasonable finish, then wax.  

Not sure about sanding the finish off completely. I sanded a spot on the back corner of my table about a year ago. I don't know what alloys they used for the table, but it looks like black iron. I left the spot open to see if it would rust or not - it hasn't. But, even if it wouldn't rust, I'm not sure about the finish.

 

[scrollerpete]

I found a supplier in Canada, price is $135 CDN. If any person interested I can supply the info.

[Scrappile]

If you have a facility around your area that does powder coating  you might at least ask.  A piece no bigger than that table top may not be that expensive.  I don't know.

[hotshot]

or if you have a harbor freight, you could powercoat it yourself.  Lots of videos on line about doing this, you basically put the coat on, bake it in your oven, and presto

 

Edited February 23, 2018 by hotshot

[amazingkevin]

On 2/22/2018 at 10:48 AM, Scrappile said:

You could take your table to a machine shop and see what it would cost to have one made.  Or you could cover yours with something like 1/8' masonite.  I did not care for the magnetic top on my Seyco.  I covered my top with masonite and fixed to so I could have Zero clearance inserts.

 

Years and years now I've covered my DeWalt with thin formica,I write on it in pencil,notes,it gets scratched but means nothing,and is very slippery for your wood to glide on.No oils,waxes ,teflon just mica!No maintenance.Plus its so thin you don't miss catching the reverse teeth on your scroll reverse blades!

[OCtoolguy]

19 hours ago, amazingkevin said:

Years and years now I've covered my DeWalt with thin formica,I write on it in pencil,notes,it gets scratched but means nothing,and is very slippery for your wood to glide on.No oils,waxes ,teflon just mica!No maintenance.Plus its so thin you don't miss catching the reverse teeth on your scroll reverse blades!

Kevin, how do you attach it? Is it glued down? I'd like to know.

Ray

 

[amazingkevin]

On 3/5/2018 at 3:01 PM, octoolguy said:

Kevin, how do you attach it? Is it glued down? I'd like to know.

Ray

 

All I used was spray glue on both the table and mica!If you want to remove it just use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits.

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, amazingkevin said:

All I used was spray glue on both the table and mica!If you want to remove it just use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits.

Thanks Kevin. I might just do that to mine.

Ray