greasemonkeyredneck

I ordered Sunday afternoon. My mail ran today about ten this morn (Wednesday). Guess what? My Blades are here! That's some fast shipping. If I called other companies I order from (I won't name any names) three days after ordering, my order would still be "being processed". Mike even included two samples of the "new" spirals for me to try. I had ordered a half gross of 2/0 spirals. I'll try both Mike, and which ever one I like best, you can expect an order of at least a gross next month.

I'd really like to commend Mike's Workshop at http://www.mikesworkshop.com/ . I placed an order earlier today for a half gross of blades. I submited my order using my credit card over the internet. Without realizing it, I misspelled my e-mail address (I cut wood better than I type). So, later in the evening I got a phone call. It was a call from Mike's Workshop wanting my correct e-mail address so he could send me a note letting me know my order was processed. I have NEVER had this kind of service from ANYTHING I have ordered over the internet, and I order a LOT off the net. Mike. If my order is shipped with half the care you give to making sure your customer's information is correct, you'll have my blade business from now on. Thank you.

Those are greast links Travis. However, I've searched high and low on the net. I've seen some great sled ideas. In the end though, I decided to sort of incorporate several different "net" ideas and build one to my taste. For one thing, most sleds are built with a 4x8 plywood sheert in mind. My free source of mateial averages about 7 foot by 29". To be safe, I'm making my sled to crosscut up tp 30". My fence closest to me will be 5" high with hold downs. The hold downs will keep me focused more on safety than holding my wood in place. I will then make wedges of different angles to fit against the fence at the zero mark. I will have holes that dowel rods will fit into to serve this purpose. To make this like I want will require a little "fiddlin" to get it just right, but I do have in my mind what I want. OH! Under it, will of course have the standard strips to slide in the miter slots already on the table. So far, all I have done on this project is the sled runners and the sled bed. The runners are just oak strips that I first cut oversized. Then I slowly planed them down a little at a time until I had a perfect fit. Then I cut my bed to size. I let the blade all the way down, positioned the bed squarely with the saw table and slowly let the moving blade up through the wood. The bed is made of MDF because I have found it to warp and cup less with the changes in temp. After running the blade all the way up through the bed, I shut it off. Then, through the top I countersunk screws down through the runners. Then I flipped the bed over, marked the runners, removed the screws, and glued and screwed it back down into place. After drying, everything slides smooth as silk. My next step will be the fence when I can get back into the shop. I've been sick. I'm planning on using bar clamps to put the fence in position. I'll test cut a piece of wood, and flip one half over and see where I'm at. I'll adjust the fence till the two halves line up perfectly after the flip. Then I'll screw the fence into position, mark it, then glue and screw it down the same as the runners. This is turning out to be an easy project, but time consuming. The time will be worth it though for the time it will save me in the future, not to mention the saved material.

A table saw will work fine for cutting 45s on frames. However, I've found out the hard way that the miter fences that come with most table saws aren't worth crap. Usually they are "sloppy" in the table slots. Also, the "fence" is never big enough to hold the material to be cut safely. All that being said brings me to a project I'm slowly working on now. I'm making a sled. For info on that, do an internet search for "how to make a table saw sled". There's virtually thousands of ideas on it on the web. I'm making mine mainly to cut perfect 90 degree crosscuts. I'm also considering an adjustable miter attachment though. My reasoning on this is my 90 degree problem. I'm having nightmares over 90 degree cuts. I guess from normal use of my tools, I don't think I have a tool in my shop any more that cuts or marks a "perfect 90". Even my miter saw is about one or two degrees off. I recently, while building a cabinet for my wife, found out my square was no longer square. Upon buying a new one, I found it was about one degree off. So, the sled is my answer. I'm carefully testing it using a piece of plywood. My idea is that it'll be right when I can rip the wood, turn one side over, and it still come together with no gaps. This sled of mine is of course a work in progress, so any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I've seen a lot of this and that about framing portraits lately and since I'm sick and can't get in the shop much, I decided to share how I do my portraits. First off, I cut my portraits from 1/4" material with a 1/8" backer stained the color of choice, usually ebony for me. This creates a 3/8" thick project to be framed. I have lots of material up in the rafters of my shop that ranges from 1x2 to 2x3. These are scraps from previous projects. Some are short as a foot while some are long as eight feet. So, I just need to make sure I have enough for the outside perimeter of the project plus about six inches. The six extra allows for mistakes and such while cutting my 45s for the corners. Next I set up my router with a 1/2" slot cutter. I use a router depth gauge to raise the bit to 3/8". I lay my material down flat, with the 1" part being vertical. Then I set my router fence to cut the material about 1/4" from the side to hold the project. Then I run the material through the router to cut my slot. Of course, if I have more than one piece to complete the frame, I make sure they are exactly the same deminsions and assure I cut them the same way. From there I move to the miter saw. I measure the length of the project, and with the saw set on a 45, I cut the two ends apposing each other, with the short side of the mitered piece being the side with the slot. I always cut it an 1/8" long. I can always cut more, but I can't add back to it. Do this twice and then twice for the width. It take practice. I still catch myself every now and then moving to the set up table with a frame that has the slot on the outside edge. On to the setup table. Lay out your frame as it will be put together with the slots facing up. Measure your inside of the slots. Will your portrait fit without being too tight or too loose? If it's too loose, you'll have to trim your frame some more. If it's too tight, you have the option of starting over or trimming you portrait a hair. After I'm satisfied the frame will work right, I have to put it together. I glue mine, but there are endless methods to this. Some nail them. Some use frame clamps. Whatever, this is a personal preference here. I just dap a little glue on and tape the corner tightly overnight. The next day, I put a keyhole slot cutter into my router, set my fence, and cut holes to hang my portrait. I bought a keyhole slot bit for about 12 bucks late last year and it has already paid for itself by saving me the cost of frame hanging hardware. The frame is now done.You can tack your portrait in. The hardware store sells portrait retaining clips you can install. Some people even glue their portraits in. I hope this helps somebody. I mainly hope I haven't confused anyone.

Welcome, welcome, welcome. To add pics to the posts, you have to first upload the pictures to a gallery, which you can create for yourself. Hopefully, someone else will happen along here and remember where to point you to the tutorial on how to do all this. Travis is usually the right man for that job. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help, but welcome, and please have a look around. The village has so much to offer experienced and novice woodworkers alike.

Here's my latest work. I've been posting an in progress section over in the tutorial section if any of you haven't seen it and wish to take a look see. It's made entirely of cottonwood. The red you see on there is stain, not paint. I never use paint.

Yea, this is a throwaway society we live on these days. It makes me sick. Many things can be repaired. I have a bad habit accossiated with that though. If I see something in someone's garbage, I'll pick it up and see what can be done with it. Right now out back, I have about ten bicycles. I'm going to repair the ones I can and take to the Salvation Army. There's some little boy or girl out there that needs a bike and their parents can't afford a new one. That's just PART of my board stock. I get them for a great price (free). The only problem is I have to take all that they give me. This sometimes leaves me with a storage problem for all the firewood I get. THAT problem is better than having no wood though, he he. Come on down to Mississippi. I just give away a truckload of 1x3 oak strips. I try to help others when I can since I have an over abundance of wood.

All the time, I have people ask me if I can fix wooden things they have held onto hoping husbands or whoever will fix them. I always tell them to bring the things in and I'll see what I can do. Well, for the first time ever, a customer actually brought me some items to repair. The chair was simple enough. One of the feet pieces were off. All I done was disassemble everything, then reassemble with glue and stronger screws. The original screws had backed out or stripped out, I don't know since they were missing. After reassemblly though, it holds my 220 pound frame very well, so I think it will be fine. The hanging flower pot holder needed a new hanger piece. The piece at the top that runs through the chain, one was missing. The second was brought for a patterns since she wanted them to match. I just took the good one out, traced it, and put everything back together. I took plenty of photos in case I decide to make some of these in the future for my wife. The only thing I done different was that originally, they were held in place with 3/8 dowel rod so they could swivel. Upon reassembly, I put a finishing nail through the frame and dowel so they would not back out. That is how the original got lost.

Offtopic, but I wanted to ask anyway. Does everyone use their blower? Maybe it's because I use cheap saws, but I've found that the blowers are more trouble than they're worth on my saws. I've gotten used to it now and the first thing I do to a new saw is take the hold down clamp and blower assembly off. I haven't used a blower in about seven months now. I do have to blow from my mouth from time to time to get line visibility, but it's like second nature now. I'd probably do it even if the blower was attached.

Thanks so much to all the staff members. I'd also like to thank, if I may, all the members though. I tried many sites before the village. I actually heard about the village from Steve Goode. Before finding ya'll though, I'd grown a hatred to online scrolling communities. Most I'd been on, I mainly got laughed at and critisized for such things as not owning the right saw, my posting excess photos, and many other nitpicing reasons. I'm so glad to have the family atmosphere found at scrollsaw village.Some of us just love scrolling, even if we can't afford an Excaliber or have the ability to design all of our own original patterns. Some of you feel like family just because you are so accepting. Thaks so much to everyone, staff and members included.

I'm a recent convert to FDs. I love them. However, on my last cutting, which was The Last Supper. I ran into a problem. I think it was just the wood I was using though. The FD spiral reverse #3 I was using just left so much fuzz, on the backside and inside the cuts. I switched to some olsens I still had, and the problem dissappeared. Another problem I have is that every now and then, I grab a FD (same spirals, I love spirals) and it seems that it doesn't cut well 360 degrees around like I'm used to. There will be one single direction that just doesn't cut worth crap. It will be slow and rough as a cob. I'm not giving up on FDs though. So far, I've been pleasantly surprised by them. I think I am going to try the new spirals that aren't supposed to be as aggresive. Also, upon ordering, I wasn't sure what size. I'd always used olsen #2s in the past. I went with FD #3s. They are close, but do cut just a hair larger kerf. I think I'll try #1s next time. As for the pros and cons of spirals, I can see both sides of the argument. I started scrolling with flats, then later decided to try spirals, mainly because I wanted to do a portrait that was larger than my saw could handle. That portrait was a 11x14 by Jeff Zaffino. I could cut most of it, but by the time I made it to the corners, I couldn't turn it enough to get all the details. Anyway, by the time I finished that portrait, spirals had become my blade of choice. And I think that's all it is, a matter of choice. My ONLY complaint with spirals is the "fuzz". I never got that amount of fuzz with flats. IMHO though, small price to pay for the size work I can do now on my 16" saw.

I've learned a few things with this thread. However, I still wouldn't call most of this "defects". Howabout "peculiar oddities" or something. These so called "defects" are things I try to incorporate into my projects as often as possible. I love looking at interesting wood grain patterns. Of course, you have to realize, I'm one of those wierdos that can rub on a piece of wood a while, just getting "lost in the grain". My wife claims I love wood more than her at times.

Thanks so much for the comments. The pricing suggestions told me pretty much what I thought. I already knew sixty was on the low side. Luckily though, since I'm the only one locally doing this type work, I don't have to feel guilty that I may be cutting someone else's throat. The downside though is that I cut my own throat. I live in an area where you just can't get that much for this type work. I sale online or travel out of state, and I get a fair price. Here in Mississippi though, raising my prices does nothing more than put myself into running an oddities shop where everyone comes and gives me oohs and ahhs, but no money. On fixed income, with this as a hobby, I have to sell some pieces, even at a reduced price, just to keep my hobby going. It's a dream of mine to one day make enough on this to travel more and get fair prices. For the time being though, that's what it is, a dream. I'm like Rick Hutcheson told one time though, if I can support my hobby and take my wife out to a nice dinner now and then, I'm happy.

You may also want to check out Steve Goode's newest pattern. It's a ship portrait. Kind of simple, but real nice at the same time. Since my favorite thing outside the shop is boating, fishing, or anything to do with the local river, I simply love anything to do with boats and ships.

I ordered this pattern from Wildwood Designs. My wife wanted a cutting of the Last Supper. the cutting is cottonwood. The backer is cottonwood stained with ebony. This is another instance I talked with Travis a while back on. My backer boards are always wood planed down to an eight inch and stained whatever color I wish, usually ebony because I like black in the background. It works well with the light cottonwoood I usually do my cuttings in. I like using wood backer versus felt just to keep the wood grain flowing together. All my frames are made by me. They are usually just simple mitered frames like this one. This one is made of mahogany. The cutting measures ten inches by twenty and took about ten hours to complete. I done something on this one that I don't normally do. I stack cutted two at one time. I usually don't do stack cutting on portraits. I don't know why, I just don't. On this one though, I needed one for my wife and one to sell. That brings me to a question. I ponder a lot on pricing. So I thought, why not ask other scrollers what they think? I don't worry about time too much in my pricing. Because its a hobby and my pickyness takes a lot of my time, not even considering my health problems slowing me down, I can't consider time. I do think about value though. In that arena, I feel I often under price myself. Anyway, enough rambling. Does $60 sounds reasonable for a cutting like this one?

This pattern came from one of my favorite sites, Scrollsaw Workshop, http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/ . Steve Goode supplies some of the best free patterns on the net. It is cut from half inch cottonwood and stained with Minwax dark walnut stain.

I posted it to my gallery some time back, when I first joined this community, but I'd like to enter the Patriot Clock. This clock is made entirely of mahogany. It stands around 41" tall. It consists of the original Patriot Clock design by Steve Goode. Then for the bottom, I added the POW/MIA photo. Then for the sides of the bottom I used common 2" stencils and cut "Pride" on one side and "Honor" on the other. I also downloaded the POW/MIA photo from Steve Goode at Scrollsaw Workshop. Then I added a second level between the POW/MIA and the main clock. In the middle of this clock, I realized it called for an insert in the "God Bless America" section. I usually don't keep inserts around since I do larger clocks. So, for the second level, I designed a clock face using stars instead of numbers. This clock face, while simple, was one of the first things I ever designed for myself. I was proud of it.

I had a day that I wanted to cut, but just didn't feel "up" to doing nothing big. So I remembered a few patterns I had laid in the filing cabinet I had downloaded from Steve Goode over at Scrollsaw Workshop. If any of you haven't checked out his site, it is a treasure chest of free patterns at http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/ . The pictures you see are the deer, wolf, and eagle hand saws. The saw itself is cottonwood, while the handle and stands are made of some small pieces of mahogany I saved from the scrap bin. And here is a picture of six saws, two of each type, that made up one day of cutting. I made two of each by stack cutting.

Already do that. A while back, I had a couple of circle cutouts laid on top of a radial arm saw I used to have. One of the little ones asked what they were. I said they looked like wheels to me. So we built a truck. The butterflies I posted a week or two ago are for my daughter. The unicorn and pegasus a while bck was for my wife. I think I've saved up enough cedar now to build my daughter a chest. If there was room in my house and I didn't have to make some cash to support my hobby, I'd just make stuff for us.

Uh! That would be a NO. I have eight kids. That is more than enough.

No, it doesn't have an owner yet. It's for sale. I now make two different motorcycle rockers, a pig rocker, a rocking horse, rocking train, and a rocking tractor. I enjoy doing them, but they are hard on my back (some already know about my back issues due to a ten year old injury). I actually had an offer a while back to sale ten bike rockers if I could have them done by a certain date. Unfortunately, I had to turn it down. With my back, I can't commit to stuff like that. I never know if I'm even going to be able to walk from one day to the next, much less build labor intensive stuff like that. I do love doing them though.

This is PokeChop, the rocking porker I've been posting progress on over in the tutorial section. I finished him this morning. He is made of solid cottonwood. The rocker assembly and bow is pine. I stained the rockers and bow dark walnut and the pig pecan.

Even a shop the size of mine has the dust problem. It takes me an hour at the end of a project just to get an area clean enough to stain. I, too, use the front of my shop when I need to make auto repairs. I do thank the Lord everyday though that I have a shop like this. I done mechanic work for thirteen years in a shop much smaller than this one.

Travis wrote: I'm not going to lie to you...I really really want your shop! The place is massive! The Lord has blessed me the last few years. This is just a couple of bad photos of the shop. The actual shop in its entirety is forty feet by fifty. The main shop is massive. It is also tall. You wouldn't believe the stuff I have stored in the rafters. Then there are my two ten by ten junkrooms off to one side. Then on the front is the ten by twelve room that I keep clean as sort of a display room for my projects. Walk straight into the main shop through the cargo door, (second photo). The row you see to your right contains two table saws, chop saw, planer, drill press, Craftman scrollsaw, and bench grinder. The next row to the left of that conatins the lathe, tool table, table mounted belt sander, band saw, Antique Craftsman scroll saw and the Delta scroll saw. Each of these rows is set up so you walk all the way around them to access the various tools. To the left of all that, over in the corner, is my L-shaped work area. It consists of two large tables build from beams and doors, My tow shopmates, and the air hockey the kids are grounded from, so I use it too. Around the corner from that is the little ten by ten hole I store lumber in. All this is in the back of the shop. I like it there so I can work and look forward, keeping an eye outside and on the front of the shop where my teenage boys have there own little woodworking area set up. The shop is about a hundred yards from the house. I have my coffee pot set up and surround sound stereo hooked up throughout. I love my music. I can work in the middle of the night when I feel like it, crank up the stereo, and loose myself in the grain of the wood. When I'm not there at night, it is the home of my baby, my American pit bull named Jasmine. As I said, I have been very blessed.