JTTHECLOCKMAN

180 or 220 grit will work fine. All you are doing is taking off any oils from blades and roughing the shiny point of the bolts. This needs to be done with all clamps from time to time. It also helps to sand both ends and both sides of the blades before installing too. Again either grit of paper will work 

https://www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm
Scroll down to tensioning rod. It show you how to take front cover off and what to look for. one or two turns on the rod should be enough. I do not have my Dewalt any more so can not take any photos. But it is not hard to do. Maybe someone else has a clear photo but in that link you will see it. It use to be the wedge was mis manufactured on some saws and they were too large. I would have thought that problem is all gone by now. 

I would if I were you store it in a wood box or cabinet. I would not store a used mask in a plastic bag. It will grow fungus. A filter will be wet after use so needs air to dry. I only used the N95 masks when I was scrolling and always just stored mask on saw right side down. I still do this when used on other tools like the tablesaw too. My lathe I use a 3M mask because dust is more prevalent at the source because of the position I have to be in. I have my dust collector behind the lathe bed to capture most dust. But turning acrylics and other woods that are burls and things are not good to breathe. 

You can use a dremel old style saw it does not matter. It is not the saw and not the blade. It is the operator. Sorry to say. 1" is thick, yes but I have cut 1" with a #5 double tooth revers FD silver blade. Is that actually 1" oak or 3/4" oak? 
First thing first. Make sure your blade is parallel straight up and down. Use a small square to check this. Install blade and lay square next to it on the flat sides. Check both sides raise the blade by hand and check again. If it is parallel that is great. If not then you need to adjust either the top sccrew or bottom screw in the clamps to center the blade. What I like to do is to set the setscrews just even with the flat side of the clamp. So when you now screw the thumbscrew to tighten the blade it just tightens against the side of the clamp and does not pinch the blade and bend it. Now cutting that thick wood you need to be able to cut squarely but also make the turns. But in that pattern you can get away without turning and just nibble at the corners. This will save you from putting sideward pressure on the blade if you turn and do not straighten up again. Thus the blade stays bent as you continue to cut and thus the angle of the cuts and the thin backside of pattern. That is what is happening. You are applying too much sideward pressure when turning and not letting the saw do the cutting The thicker the material the slower the cut will go. Just fact no matter what blade you use. I would use a #7 skip tooth blade of any brand. Does not have to be a precision blade. 

Never tried this but have read that yes it can cause extra vibration because there can instability from the floor. best to secure the stand in a way that it is flat and level on the solid floor. This question came up before.
 
https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/48957-wheels-on-scrollsaw-stands/

Marie, if I were doing what you are here is my steps:
Walnut on top and Mahogony on bottom
If you were using a pattern then blue tape top of walnut and stick pattern to it. (I do this because I find it easier to pull off blue tape over pulling off sprayed adhesive on pattern. Too much sticky residue left behind that needs to be cleaned off)
Blue tape bottom side of walnut and blue tape top side of Mahagony.
Between these 2 layers spray front and back of white copy paper with adhesive of your choice ( I like 3M 77spray adhesive) let set for a few seconds and then stick to bottom of walnut and then line up Mahagony and press that on top.
You are done. If using more than two layers just rinse and repeat. No need for anything on bottom of Mahogony. 

And I understand that. I do not see on this forum people using 3/4" wood for detailed fret work such as portraits unless I missed it. Many here use BB and that would be expensive to use 3/4" BB. As I said it is the size of the fret holes that has your eye saying it is not right. Now if you took a portrait and scrolled in 3/4" and painted the inside cuts with a black or a off color from the wood I bet you would change your mind. It would give the portrait depth .