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ImaginationUnincorporated

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Everything posted by ImaginationUnincorporated

  1. For me, it's about quality, when I can pull it off. Getting there, I, often, fall back on the "buying quality tools only hurts once, but cheap tools, poor quality tools hurt each time you use them." To be fair, the Delta planer with standard blades does not fall in the cheap category. Nor does my Delta. I have the latter and it's served me for over a decade. That, of course, it one of the key issues - how long the equipment will hold up. I don't do a lot of planing, or jointing [anymore], but it's nice to know the equipment I bought will hold up for, say, twenty or so years. I just picked up a pickup load of sycamore and madrona that, when dry, will need attention. While my planer is not a Dewalt, it is/was the second highest rated lunchbox. My jointer is not a PM or Oliver. It's a Grizzly 8" long bed with spiral cutters. Grizzly's version of the Shelix. It did hurt once, but my regret at tossing out fourteen hundred on it [and a drive to Bellingham from Central Washington] passed quickly. It is quieter than my PM 6" was and it nibbles at figured wood like a champ (I, still, wouldn't run an end grain cutting board over it). If I hit a nail, it will, more likely than not, not just be a matter of spinning a few of the four sided blades. It'll be a matter of replacing them. But that is still quicker, cheaper and easier than swapping three 12" or so blades. Too, if I don't hit a nail, there is the simple fact I get to turn the blades four times before I have to replace them. In summary, if you're going to have a planer for a long time, why not have the best you can get. SIDE NOTE: Square carbide blades sharpen easily, so any blades I, EVENTUALLY, pull off my jointer or planer would make great replacement blades for carbide lathe knives.
  2. Go with the ones with the most leds. Beside the little one, which are in my photos above, they are significantly brighter.
  3. [Re birthdays] That's okay, Ray, just talk slow for me and I'll catch up, eventually. I believe I got the five I have off Amazon Prime. By way of prime, they were around $10.99. Here are a couple pages from that site: https://www.amazon.com/harmiey-Gooseneck-Magnetic-Mounting-Workbenches/dp/B07FSPJKWQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sewing+machine+light&qid=1566837550&s=gateway&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sewing+machine+light&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 _______________________________ SIDE NOTE: We don't have an Ikea anywhere near here and the closest real town is an hour out.
  4. I bought several sewing machine lights for other tools and things. On a whim, I stuck one to the hold down on my Hegner and, for around ten bucks, low and behold . . . . These appear to have rare earth magnets, based on the pull I note attaching and removing them, so if you have some iron around you saw, you could attach it and be off and running. Ran a bunch of items and it didn't launch, so. . . . NOTE: I bought two versions. The two on my little lathe have more lights and toss more light.
  5. On the saw I gave a friend, I swapped the screw for a thumb screw from my significant collection of bought and captured thumb screws saved for jigs. Plan on the same for mine, but have no more M4's among the fifty ones I have and it's an hour to the civilized world. As I posted elsewhere, it looks like the difference between the QuickClamp and the stock one is, the screw of the stock one acts as a back for the blade, where the QuickClamp pinches the blade. As such, there is no reason a swamp to 3/4" M4 shouldn't do the same job. I just posted about the radiator keys because of the difficulty in locating clock keys and such that work for those on a budget, which many are, if only because they have to chose between a light and a key or something else. Looking at bring this saw up to my specs, it's real easy to see buying storage tubs, a work light, key, and what have you can add up quick, and cost me that other toy, uh, tool I wanted. Did I mention proprietary approaches to simple things that complicate things annoys me?
  6. That was one of the "key" I was missing, the number 14 (maybe), as part of the puzzel. Thanks. I saw #3 in searches, but never that number. As such. I just poked around clock key sites for 5mm, but not with a lot of luck.
  7. Was looking at the blade holders, holder wrenches and so on. My calipers say the square bolt head for my HegnerMultimax-18 M4 stock hold down screw is a 5mm creature. I did a bit of searching and found radiator bleeding keys on E-Bay for four for five bucks and shipping. They look like the roller skate keys some of us knew, back in the day. SIDE NOTE: I couldn't find a specific tips, accessories or jigs section, so I'll give this a test drive. I'm playing around, if only to avoid things that need to be done.
  8. I was just thinking about the rare earth magnets for the lower holder flipping out of place problem. For those unfamiliar with rare earth magnets, this five foot tall waking stick should give a hint of their power. This on is on my table saw with nothing but the magnet on the bottom holding it up.
  9. I can see it's going to take time to get used this site. I'd put some effort into an introduction and see not a bit of it made it into the intro. It was not my intention to just post a few pictures. Will correct that, once I get past the current shiny things keeping me distracted.
  10. The age of a post is not relevant, if even one person, like me, finds the information in it useful. A suggestion to the contrary would seem to imply such posts should just be deleted from a site, or locked so no one can correct, add to or otherwise comment on them.
  11. This is how I hold my bandsaw table in place. You'd have to glue some 3/4 to the bottom of thin ply to get enough meat to install the hold-down (up?) bolts to thin plywood.
  12. Plaque-Ducks.tif WlkngStkForager-2.tif
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