William O Young

I totally agree with everything you said there .Some like you and I understand that but your message was well explained and will be helpful to some that may not be aware of the facts .

That was a good read John. There will always be a lot of sales propaganda on any make and model of anything..I got a chuckle reading about how good the blade holders were .Why do you think so many are replacing them with the Pegas holders. I was pleased to see he was truthful about the dust collector.Like he said , it suckes the wood down to the table so it can't be turned and it plugs up with dust. I took that thing off in the first week and made my own which I also made a video of. Problem with that mess of a dust collector system they tried was that it left a whole bunch of not only useless holes but they are in close enough to the tmain center hole that they can interrupt with top feeding .With top feeding you move the wood to where you think the center hole is in the table .If you are off a little , you gently push downward on the blade and move it a little until it drops through. Quite often I would have the blade drop through one of those useless dust collector hole and of course had to be taken back out and repositioned into the bigger hole in the center. Do you think they are going to send everyone a new table with just the one hole in the center like all other makes and models after sending them out with a botched up mess of a table right down to their paint job on the table that looks horrible after a few hours of use . ? ? ? ? Don't hold your breath .

Nobody has to be concerned about ordering or stocking such a simple thing as a little glass fuse . Every auto parts store carries just about any size and types imaginable and most of them are open seven days a week .Even in my small town one of the is open all day every Sunday .

I cannot believe some peoples way of thinking on this grease or no grease topic. Original clamp is physically bigger than the Pegas one with a bolt through it and full width plastic or nylon or whatever you want to call it lever . The Pegas one is just a little strip on each side with a pin holding it i place and the whole piece is considerably smaller than the original . Original instructions say use grease . There is a lot of pressure on that little lever when tensioning a blade and you are rubbing dry plastic against dry metal if you are not lubricating it .To me it only makes sense to use a little grease as per original manufacturers suggestion. If you are doing mostly outside cutting the lever will last for ages .If you doing fretwork and switching from hole to hole thousands of times like I have done with larger pieces I would never run it dry. If a person really wants to run it dry rather than taking half a minute to apply a little high quality grease at suggested intervals I would suggest keeping at least one spare in a safe place for when it will need to be replaced instead of having down time of having to order one.

I have no idea what size fuse was in my DeWalt or in the newer ones because I never blew on e . Perhaps it was overfused and is why my board fried instead of popping the fuse .

WOW , Kevin's list says 3.15 like in my saw and your King manual says 5 . My manual is not King. It is Excelsior and no mention of fuse size anywhere in it apart from it being #38 This raises even more concern for me. Were they blowing circuit boards with 5 amp for certain production runs of those machines and reduced it to 3 to prevent returns under warranty ? I am sure the manufacturer would never explain the reason but at least I didn't get a blown out board by being over fused .

Whereabouts did you find it John ? . Page number ? Yeah I know your eyes are probably better than mine .

What make and model and size of saw are you referring to John.

Definitely lubricate it . I have the owner's manual right in front of me and am typing from it., ********Blade Tension Lever Lubrication.Regularly apply a small amount of white grease or petroleum jelly to the friction point of the blade tension lever to allow for smoother operation. and help extend the life of the lever. Re-apply after every 10 to 15 hours of use or as needed depending on the amount used .******** The original clamps come with a spare lever in a bag because they know damned well you are going to need it even when lubricating them . Stupid design but good for sale of parts. So same thing should apply to Pegasand at the price of those clamps they should be including a few spares. . I use synthetic white grease on mine

Yes , two sounds like you have enough . Sometimes it's nice to have a spare one or two and I know some that actually do . . . . I would never be able to sell it to anyone in the states .The identical saw except with the King name on it is 700 bucks on amazon.com plus $35.00 shipping to a US address. With Exchange rate for Canada it would be $992.00 in Canadian funds. . . . Figure just over $1000.00 when paying UPS their fee for anyone picking it up a parcel that size just over the border . Amazon.ca in Canada doesn't stock i or sell it even though it is distributed by King Canada . . . Figure that one out . ? I usually sell used equipment for half price but with this one so close to new I will hold firm at $600.00 cash picked up from my shop .Someone will surely buy it at a $400.00 discount if they have been led to believe it is such an awesome make and model beforehand . Not by me but where they have read it elsewhere. . . lol . . lol . . . EDIT Just remembered . It would be subject to 12% BC taxes in order to bring it across the border into Canada so that makes it 1,120.00. So $600.00 with no taxes will seem like a real good buy locally for anyone that wants one of those . https://www.amazon.com/King-Industrial-Inch-Scroll-Saw/dp/B075NSG5RS/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=16"+excelsior+scroll+saw&qid=1575332590&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVTRKSzZVQTBLSVZXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzk2MTE1MkE0NVdTMk9HNVBDTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTA0NzI0SjFEVFIwVUZBUjdUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

EXACTLY and in the case of the saw it would either fry the circuit board or the motor windings. I have been getting a chuckle from the ones that say to put in a heavier fuse. And probably one or two more ins and outs of that flimsy little plastic fuse holder and it won't be possible to even get another fuse in there. You have to put one in and out to believe it but I hope you never have to . Why couldn't they have spent an extra 50 cents per saw and put in a regular fuse holder that we are all familiar with and so easily serviced . Something caused that fuse to blow and I am not going to wait around to find out or even do any more sawing on it. I won't even bolt it back to the table . It will go up for sale first of the year and of course used items are sold as is with no warranty . . If it is running when the new owner tries it out and buys it I can only wish him all the luck in the word with it and as soon as I see his tail lights leaving the driveway I will delete my video .

Here is the video I promised. Gosh , I was impressed with my new upload speed of 300 mbps on both upload and download only too about 7 or 8 minutes to put that one in you tube .

I guess you missed in my previous post that I had said it had been in a warm heated shop the whole time.By heated I mean just above freezing in the winter time except when I am going to work in there and I turn up the heat about an hour before time. My shop is so dry that I sometimes wonder if I should have a humidifier in there. Of course the first thing before even checking the switch was to put a screwdriver in the end of the motor shaft and even though it was free . I put a screwdriver bit in my cordless drill and spun it over for a while like that . I was aware of those dead spots that I had to free up like that so many times back when I had my DeWalt and apparently this is the very same interchangeable 1.6 amp motor . I have finished doing a video and am about to upload it into you tube.. . .So stay tuned .I will post it when it finishes uploading

I guess you missed the discussion further back in this thread that says I have found the elusive fuse and replaced it to get the saw running..As soon as shop warms up I will try making a video.

Thanks for that Jim That $70.00 board in US dollars is $94.50 in Canadian dollars plus plus 35% exchange rate plus about ten bucks shipping = $104.50 plus $12% taxes to get it here = $117.04 plus the aggravation of having to replace it. Thanks to the discussion here and the help from many members I am fortunate that I will not need a new board or motor at all this time around .I am shovelling snow and turned the heater on in my shop and I will be making a video after my shop warms up that will hopefully be helpful to some .

Most manufacturers of similar saws except for a different name and colour like these eventually get farmed out to the country that will make them the cheapest and that nearly always means China. A picture is worth a thousand words but a video is even better . . Rather than a picture of the fuse location on my Excelsior I might do a video instead on mine that might help somebody in the future.

The parts for P-20s are available if you know where to look . No problem . Fortunately , there is seldom a case where parts are needed on them . Yes the blade clamps for the P-20 were the best ever made of any saw I know of . .I replaced the blade clamps on my brand new excelsior saw within the first 4 or 5 hours of using it with the new $50.00 Pegas blade holders along with many others that were having problems with the originals . Probably just a case of no quality control in the same plant in China that made all of them . They were good enough on some of those saws and terrible on others. A crap shoot on whether you pay the same big bucks for good ones or bad ones . .

At 83 I am still doing at least 7 or 8 musical engagements every month and one was just today in a hall only ten miles out of town . Just another one of my many hobbies . My latest hobby is sausage making and like anything else it takes practice so I am on a couple sausage making forums about that as well . Never a dull moment .

Oh yes , the excalibur and the excelsior and the new pagas and half a dozen different brand names are the identical saw with different names and colors .They are being flogged out of china like they are going out of style and will probably do the same with them as soon as they get in the same position of hundreds of thousands of Dewalts that are always available as defective refurbished ones from ones returned under warranty while the ones that out of warranty still have to have expensive parts replaced sooner or later. I still believe the Delta P-20 was the best scroll saw ever made of any other make on the market..I am still kicking myself that I sold mine when I didn't have room to squeeze it in my tiny shop after buying more turning related tools . The P-20 was built like a tank and very easily serviced with no circuit boards or anything of that sort . Also a great and easy top feeding saw. .If I plan on continuing scroll sawing I will search out the market as soon as I get rid of my DeWalt clone while I am ahead and get a used P-20 ..It will outlast me and ten to one over any of the saws mentioned above. I am talking from my own experience and I wish all the best to all of the DeWalt owners and friends that are having trouble free service (so far) with them . I do believe they are way over priced and over advertised . At least the Dewalt has a cast iron table even though very many had to be replaced , even my own , because they were far from being machined flat. All the clones have a very cheap aluminum table with a nice paint job that starts scratching and wearing off in the first few hours of use just sliding smooth sanded wood around on it .

Hey John (JT) You da man tonight . i knew I would wonder all might about your suggestion if I had not gone out in the cold and checked it so I did. You were right. There IS a replaceable fuse in that saw and it is where you said it should be. Anybody just looking at where the cord plugs in would never have noticed or guessed that there is a tiny removable plastic panel directly below the plug. It even shows a picture of a fuse in the molded plastic.Hard to get off but I pried it out with a pocket knife . The whole little plastic retainer pops out and it has a miniature fuse in it. . I took it out and while it didn't look open , I checked it with my ohm meter and indeed it was open . I do have a box of various fuses from way back and was lucky to have a replacement. Put it in the retainer and pushed it back into the slot . .Then hit the switch and the saw fired up .I was so happy to see that and I thank you very much for your suggestion. I will still be selling that saw early in the new year after finding it is a clone of a Dewalt in disguise with a a few added features .I will never trust a DeWalt scroll saw in my shop after all the hell myself and so many others have gone through with them in the past. I will get rid of it while I am ahead and at least I don't have to add expensive parts before I do . Where the saw is placed in my tiny 10 x 10 shop i was not able to get my camera in there to take a picture but I will unbolt it from it's wooden stand tomorrow and turn it around and try to get a very close up shot of where the fuse holder is so it might help out someone else in the future. I have never seen a fuse placed in a place like that ever before on anything. Thanks again . You made my day . . .err . . .night. . . .well , both .

Hey John . Nice to see you on here my friend.We have had some differences on certain topics over the years but I still consider you as a friend. You have put a different slant on where that elusive fuse could be.I will check out your advice and see if it applies to my saw. Bitter cold here and my shop is unheated so if I don't check that tonight I will turn on the heat and check it tomorrow. It is after 7.00 PM here as I am typing this . Would be wonderful if your suggestion became a reality .

Do you have a phone number ?

I am quite positive it would not be the brushes. That saw has between 20 and 25 hours of use since brand new out of the box. When I mentioned I was a certified TV technician way back , I meant way back in the 50 and 60s when it was all vacuum tubes .All the techs subscribed to schematic diagrams that came out on every month by mail on the various make and models .Now that it is all solid state it is usually just a case of replacing boards rather than hand wiring in the defective components that used to be mostly resistors , capacitors and diodes if the tubes still tested good on tube teters . Circuit tracing my saw without a schematic diagram and with just my volt/ohm meter would be difficult to do without knowing exactly what voltage should be at various locations and where it switched from AC input to DC on that DC motor . and no oscilloscope now to check waveforms like back then . Whenever I do get around to pulling the back end apart to take the circuit board out . . if I can not find an open fuse to replace then it is pretty well a case of ordering a new board because it would be too hard to find the defective part on it unless a case of visibly burnt . Then , getting a new board is no guarantee of a fix and of course electronic boards are not returnable . Pardon me if there are some typos in my message. I just got back from the hospital in the closest city (250 km round trip) getting my monthly injections in both eyes .It's no picnic but it sure beats the alternative . . .lol . . . I am typing with dark sunglasses on because the monitor is too bright for dilated eyes even though the freezing is almost all out by now. BTW . . . if anyone here can find the price of both the board and the motor for that saw could you please post it here .They will be the same for the three different models with the only difference being the size of the table and the length of the top and bottom arms. . . . .I have not found anything on line yet and someone from the states checking it out would save me the price of long distance calls from Canada .

I totally agree .I sure am kicking myself for selling that saw just because I no longer had room for it in my 10 x 10 shop when I was getting heavier into turning and buying specialty tools for that . They were built like a tank and made to last through generations .I put 20 times the hours on my P-20 than I did on the DeWalt that it replaced and it was working like the day I bought it when I sold it. Too bad they discontinued making it but the real reason they did was that they didn't want to cheapen it down and farm it out to Chinese quality cutters like so many other manufacturers did that are now riding on their previous good name alone .