First Attempt at Intersecting WordArt

[Montserrat]

Here is my first attempt.  I have not made the bridges in the letters yet.  But I would like some feedback.  Is this cuttable or did I overlook something?

[Falcon]

Looks OK. Watch Travis's video on word art. I think you will be happier with the results using his method.

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles.html/_/pattern-making/inkscape/word-art-intersecting-word-art-with-inkscape-r69

Edited April 1, 2016 by Falcon

[Montserrat]

Thanks! - I use Photoshop Elements, so much of his instructions I cannot follow.  But I tried to the best of my ability to follow them. 

[Phantom Scroller]

Very good so far I use Photoshop but find it much easier in INKSCAPE as Jerry just said. Roly

[Montserrat]

thx.  I see that i need to reduce the white spaces.  

[jerry1939]

Congratulations on a good start. My Sweet Wife tells me that I am my worst critic. (It is true.)

 

I use Inkscape. Here are things I would do on the next pattern:

 

Choose a different font for the "small" word(s). Your font doesn't lend itself well to bridges. When you do the small words (your second line) enlarge everything (Hit the + key and do your bridges) When you create a rectangle for the bridge, rotate it to the desired angle. NOW DUPLICATE IT, AND PUT A COPY BELOW. You might need it again later. If you use the "duplication" the next time, CENTER it along side of the area. If the angle isn't correct, SELECT the word, click either the bottom or top arrow and either expand or shrink the word (vertically) until the bridge is in alignment. Now it's just a matter of using the arrow keys to move the bridge over to where you want it. After "Difference" where you removed the part, look at the letter. If your bridge wasn't exactly where you want it - EDIT-UNDO DIFFERENCE.

 

My person opinion is that I would have used DYNAMIC OFFSET a little more sparingly and left a smaller gap to remove. At first, I was frustrated trying to click on the color to remove. Easy cure. Hit the + key and it will be far easier to SELECT the edge.

 

There are other designers on the site with far more talent & experience than I have. Perhaps you will get better tips. Hang in there Friend. It gets easier.

 

jerry

[Travis]

Here is my first attempt.  I have not made the bridges in the letters yet.  But I would like some feedback.  Is this cuttable or did I overlook something?lynn1.jpg

 

 

I don't have Photoshop Elements, but I do have Photoshop.  So a good way to do the margin outside of the script is to go to your layer effects.  

 

• Select Outer Glow
• Change Blend Mode to Normal
• Change Opacity to 100%
• Change color to White
• Change Spread to 100%
• Change Size to whatever size you want your margin.

 

 

You can do something similar with Stroke in the same menu, but it looks like you're already using that for the black outline.

[Montserrat]

I think my program just doesn't lend itself to do this easily.  

 

Oh, Travis, your comment came in, as I was typing. Playing around some more, here.  

Edited April 1, 2016 by Montserrat

[Montserrat]

 

Well here it is - for my first one, I am ok with it.  Still deciding on a backer. 

 

 

Have more questions for you.  I started out with about 5 mm thick wood, but could for the life of me not control the blade, even though I used a #3 and kept the speed really slow.  It was going all over the place, like it was a razor blade and the wood was paper.  

 

So today I used 3/4" poplar and the same #3 blade and it worked great.  

 

But I see you guys use thin wood (ply) all the time.  So my question: what blades to you use?  Since these things are one of a kind, stacking wouldn't make any sense, would it? 

 

Thanks for more advice! 

 

 

[Travis]

If I'm working with 1/8" ply, I try to stack cut them.  I prefer cutting at 1/4" or thicker.  It's easier to control the blade that way.  If the board is too thin, it is hard to control.

[amazingkevin]

Slow your speed way down with thin woods for more control and press down on the wood for greater control of where the saw blade can go or not go.

[Montserrat]

Thanks! Will try again!

[jerry1939]

I totally agree with putting a 1/4" luan "sacrifice board" on top. When you consider the time you spent perfecting the pattern & cutting it, the luan is cheap insurance.

 

When putting on the sacrifice board, run the face grain in the opposite direction of the good piece. It will add additional strength to prevent splintering of the good piece.

 

You are making tremendous progress Friend.

 

jerry