dome clock started!

[tomsteve]

dang,bill, i never even considered it and didn't even think of it as a good finish for this. i haven't used shellac in years but remember the ease of use and liked the outcome.

guess ill have to build another clock now!

[tomsteve]

something else,bill:

the links ya suggested on another forum....um...yeah..... im getting a little crazier. I never woulda thought there were miniature French door handles!

and the lighting for dollhouses??? holy smokes that stuff's cool!!!

[Scrappile]

Another one to consider is Deft Clear Wood Finish.  It dries fast like shellac, but there is no yellowing like I have experienced with Shellac.. course there are times the yellowing is nice. The only problem with the Deft is I can only get it from Ace Hardware anymore.  The "big box" stores no longer carry it locally.

[tomsteve]

waiting for poly to dry is just about as fun as watchin grass grow.

a night of dring, them time for a coat of satin. i really like how the bloodwood where the clock face goes look. plus the bubinga flooring doesnt look too shabby either.

[Scrappile]

You are so right, beautiful!

[tomsteve]

well, i hope this saturday mornin finds everyone happy and healthy.
as for me, it finish day. probably an all day affair but thats allright. so, while im waiting for a coat of satin to dry, i thought id show what im using to get the poly onto the surface. have a couple different spray guns- a devilbiss starting line with 1.8 tip,a devilbiss startingline with 1.3 tip, a devilbiss mini gun with 1.0 tip, and a cheapo harbor freight with what i think is about a 1.7 ish tip, and my baby pictured here- a devilbiss copper tekna with 1.3 tip. all guns i picked up during my venture into auto body work. all have their place- the starting line with 1.8 i use for primers and heavy/thick(er) finishes. the HF i use when my only concern is getting product onto the surface and its going to be sanded. the mini gun i use for small projects and thinner product.the startingline with 1.3 tip....well, i dont use that any more since i got the tekna. its devilbiss's entry level gun and,on auto finishes, leaves orange peel in clearcoat and single stage paints. i found that with finishes used for woodworking, if the finish being sprayed dries rather quickly( like lacquer) it will leave orange peel. finishes with longer open time seem to have more time to level out and there wont be the orange peel. the gun doesn't have the greatest atomization.

which leaves my baby, the copper tekna. it has amazing atomization. the finish- with the right air pressure- comes out like a dust-great atomization. the fan pattern when wide open is about 10" wide or so and i can dial it down on projects like this. the regulator that came with the gun is awesome,too. some pro finishers prefer to have the gage on the compressor regulate the air pressure- saying that the gage on the gun regulates pressure, but diminishes CFM at the gun. it makes sense, but i haven't noticed a problem. maybe if i sprayed more often i would, but for now, ill stick with the gage at the gun.

being able to regulate pressure at the gun is pretty nice as there are times im spraying a finish and want a little more or a little less pressure and its a simple task to just read down and turn the knob. the adjustment for paint volume seems to be more smooth/accurate than the other guns,too. 

its a rather pricey gun, but when i was doing autobody, i had to have something that laid base and clear real good. where i really noticed how good this gun is was when i  did a pretty big body restore on an 87 blazer. it was a metallic brown and the gun laid the metallic out perfectly- no tiger stripes!! which i did my 1st metallic paint with the startingline gun.yeah, that didn't turn out too good but glad it was my own project.

its been a real nice gun for spraying finish, and another thing i see on this project- the atomization helps get the finish into the nooks and crannies better.

and the compressor is just yer basic 60 gallon twin cylinder single stage 3 hp. its been a great craiglist find!

Edited March 4, 2017 by tomsteve

[Scrappile]

Holy cow!  I have a hard time figuring out how to use a rattle can!!!    Glad you are not really into this finishing stuff!! :lol:

[tomsteve]

believe it or not, scrappile, I make a bigger mess with rattle cans!!! LOLOLO

[Bill WIlson]

dang,bill, i never even considered it and didn't even think of it as a good finish for this. i haven't used shellac in years but remember the ease of use and liked the outcome.

guess ill have to build another clock now!

 

I think you would find the qualities of shellac to be almost ideal for fretwork.  Being thin and quick drying, it makes it easier to hit the piece from all the angles necessary to get full coverage in all the nooks & crannies, without the puddling and runs that you can get with slower drying, thicker poly.  I spray shellac on about 95% of my scroll saw projects.  Nothing else I've used is as fast, easy to spray & clean up as shellac and it makes a very nice finish as well.  Mix your own flakes and you have a wide variety of colors & tones available to you, without using separate stains or dyes. 

[amazingkevin]

well, i hope this saturday mornin finds everyone happy and healthy.

as for me, it finish day. probably an all day affair but thats allright. so, while im waiting for a coat of satin to dry, i thought id show what im using to get the poly onto the surface. have a couple different spray guns- a devilbiss starting line with 1.8 tip,a devilbiss startingline with 1.3 tip, a devilbiss mini gun with 1.0 tip, and a cheapo harbor freight with what i think is about a 1.7 ish tip, and my baby pictured here- a devilbiss copper tekna with 1.3 tip. all guns i picked up during my venture into auto body work. all have their place- the starting line with 1.8 i use for primers and heavy/thick(er) finishes. the HF i use when my only concern is getting product onto the surface and its going to be sanded. the mini gun i use for small projects and thinner product.the startingline with 1.3 tip....well, i dont use that any more since i got the tekna. its devilbiss's entry level gun and,on auto finishes, leaves orange peel in clearcoat and single stage paints. i found that with finishes used for woodworking, if the finish being sprayed dries rather quickly( like lacquer) it will leave orange peel. finishes with longer open time seem to have more time to level out and there wont be the orange peel. the gun doesn't have the greatest atomization.

which leaves my baby, the copper tekna. it has amazing atomization. the finish- with the right air pressure- comes out like a dust-great atomization. the fan pattern when wide open is about 10" wide or so and i can dial it down on projects like this. the regulator that came with the gun is awesome,too. some pro finishers prefer to have the gage on the compressor regulate the air pressure- saying that the gage on the gun regulates pressure, but diminishes CFM at the gun. it makes sense, but i haven't noticed a problem. maybe if i sprayed more often i would, but for now, ill stick with the gage at the gun.

being able to regulate pressure at the gun is pretty nice as there are times im spraying a finish and want a little more or a little less pressure and its a simple task to just read down and turn the knob. the adjustment for paint volume seems to be more smooth/accurate than the other guns,too. 

its a rather pricey gun, but when i was doing autobody, i had to have something that laid base and clear real good. where i really noticed how good this gun is was when i  did a pretty big body restore on an 87 blazer. it was a metallic brown and the gun laid the metallic out perfectly- no tiger stripes!! which i did my 1st metallic paint with the startingline gun.yeah, that didn't turn out too good but glad it was my own project.

its been a real nice gun for spraying finish, and another thing i see on this project- the atomization helps get the finish into the nooks and crannies better.

and the compressor is just yer basic 60 gallon twin cylinder single stage 3 hp. its been a great craiglist find!

Boy i just found this 5 page post tonight and you've really done your homework.Every picture makes my mouth drop open as to the realistic looking construction you.ve done so far.Absolutely  everything you've done makes my mouth water in delight seeing this all come together.I'd like to walk in your shoes all the way doing this project.It must make you very proud to have accomplish this task. Keep on keeping on! :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

[tomsteve]

got the doors cut and hardware installed.i prefer to do door handles that are life size- those things werent easy glueing on!

one note on the doors- if building the dome clock- or any otherclock-it would be wise to put the hinges on before constrction. i have the hinges glued on but wasnt(yet) able to get all the little nails in. i didnt drive the nails in- just drilled holes a little bigger and added a drop of glue into the hole, then pressed the nails in.

[tomsteve]

Boy i just found this 5 page post tonight and you've really done your homework.Every picture makes my mouth drop open as to the realistic looking construction you.ve done so far.Absolutely  everything you've done makes my mouth water in delight seeing this all come together.I'd like to walk in your shoes all the way doing this project.It must make you very proud to have accomplish this task. Keep on keeping on! :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

thank,sir, for the compliment!one thing,though:

if youd like to walk in my shoes, then that would mean ya want to be in my head and if ya want to be in my head

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ya need a check up from the neck up!!

[Scrappile]

Looking super Tom.  Just keep getting better and better.

[tomsteve]

thanks,scrappile!! beings how the clock mechanism and numbers are self explanatory, I think imam gonna go over and start a thread in the bragging rights as I think im done with this one.

notice, I THINK im done......

theres some pretty cool miniature lighting!!

[Scrappile]

Done!!  I one month???  takes me longer than that just to scroll some of the pictures I have done... It would take me at least a year to do your project!

[don watson]

Totally awesome. A great piece of work.

[kdog]

New to this website, but have been scrolling for years. Saw the thread about the dome clock and am sure you're having a great time building it. I built it myself a few years ago, but at 50% scale. Used padauk and walnut, but over time, the padauk darkened quite a bit.

[Woodmaster1]

Awesome project, I don't know if I have the patience for something like that.