PNW Native Formline Art

[Trapper John]

I have both of these books and share in the recommendation, Frank.  They are very detailed but for those seeking a "how to" guide they may be frustrating.  The cultural explanations for variations in design and style are quite good and they are a valuable reference set. "Learning by Doing" is a more hands on book and I need to get it.

 

Edited March 22, 2018 by Trapper John

[Frank Pellow]

14 minutes ago, Trapper John said:

I have both of these books and share in the recommendation, Frank.  They are very detailed but for those seeking a "how to" guide they may be frustrating.  The cultural explanations for variations in design and style are quite good and they are a valuable reference set. "Learning by Doing" is a more hands on book and I need to get it.

 

Somehow (?) I was unaware that there was a "Learning by Doing" variation of these books. 

Thanks for mentioning it.  I have just ordered the book.

[Trapper John]

Sometimes I think the only reason I post is to avoid actually going out into the shop.  Well, just to show that I mean it, here is an opening point for discussion.

I must first credit the original artist, Will Foulkes, a Native Tsimshian, with the original design.  I have written to Will to ask permission to discuss and use his work but since I have no intention to use this work commercially I am defining fair use under the Collective Common standard definition for now.  When Will replies I will react accordingly, out of respect first and legal issues next.

I should have provided a scale for this cut-out, but just know that it measures about 4" by 5".  Ignore the "blemish" above and to the left of the eye socket; it's a piece of 3/4" plywood scrap that you are looking at. Here are my questions to this point.

1.  Note the small area separated by dotted lines between the teeth and the forehead.  This area is technically defined by a "freeline" or outermost dotted line.
     Question:  Is this area too small to be successfully worked?  Picture this area as an extending clear around the head -  a border of sorts.  Does your answer change?

2.  If you look carefully the there are "dark" areas, pencil shaded, and white areas.  The dark/blackened areas are positive space while the white areas are negative space.  I see two approaches to cutting this pattern:

   a.  Cut each white/negative area out, sand and prepare for later insertion in the intarsia, or

  b.  Let the entire back panel be white; treat the negative spaces as cut-outs as in fretwork.  

This is a fairly routine decision but one which scrollers make all of the time but remains perplexing for newbies - at least, this newbie.

Of course there may be other options which you may think of.  The color scheme for this piece is:  Black for positive spaces; Red for accent pieces (TBD); White for negative spaces.  My end objective is to create a well-fitted, well-sanded piece that reflects the original artist's interpretation of an Orca.  I haven't included a complete sketch of the entire creature out of respect for the artist. It will be 16 inches in overall length.

Hope we can have some fun chewing on this. 

[Trapper John]

Let me begin with a sincere apology for not replying to the many fine posts that I received in reply to my original comments.  Suffice to say that life got in the way but I am back for sure.

My interest in formline art and scrolling has re-emerged and although I am interested in intarsia I have also been exploring marquetry.  I hope to be a better poster/responder in the future!