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Posted

A while back I made a Peacock design lamp (4 sides) from 1/8 " plywood 17" x 5.5". I went back and cleaned up the pattern and had my wife invert the pattern in photo shop so I would cut away the black instead of the white. (I get confused) I've looked at some exotic woods like Padauk and bubinga because of the rich colors, but they tend tend to be brittle. Plywood is stronger and I wondered if anyone has tried to cut veneered wood? I would have to use a skip tooth (down) blade that would not lift the veneer.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

I have not but would not be afraid to try.  Seems to me like it should work.  That is a beautiful lamp.

I'll have to give it a try. I have not tried it before and I'll need a piece about 24 x 24. Woodcraft has some and I'll have to see what it cost.

Posted

I haven't worked with veneer, but giving it some thought. You might find some veneer stock on CL. I'd think you'd want to glue it to some BB or something like that. Ideally you'd want a vacuum press for something like that.  If you belong to a woodworking club or guild you might find someone who has that equipment and will let you glue it in their shop. Just throwing ideas out. I always do some kind of a test piece with I venture into an area where I don't know where I'm headed.  Whatever - good luck.

Posted

I've done some thinking about this and scrolling the veneer over the 1/8" PW is not the problem. Staining the inside of the cutout is the problem. Too easy for the stain to bleed through. I'll just cut the BBPW. Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.

Posted (edited)

I also have been giving this some more thought.  Guess I am not sure what you mean by veneered wood.  Wouldn't that be plywood or hardboard or something else covered with veneer?  So the same problem with the inside of the cutouts would exist.  I guess one could try to stack cut with the veneer/plywood, then dip stain the plywood and them attach the veneer.... Good luck!  I would not be afraid to cut 1/8" exotic, like bloodwood, a rosewood or Mahogany.  I'd stack cut which I think you did with the lamp.  Something I'd be more concerned about is the wood cupping.  I have had problems with that when I purchase thin stock, and yes you can get the cupping our, but I find that is temporary (which is another plus for plywood).

Edited by Scrappile
Posted

My question is taking another direction. I have put the veneer aside for another project. Original concept was to use adhesive veneer on 1/8" BBPW but now either trying stain (test piece first) or my wife's painting (another test piece first) Any luck staining BBPW?

Posted

I have only stained BB twice and both times it was backers that I stained.  Both times it turned out fine.  I use whip on General Finishes Gel Stain and have also used Old Masters Gel stain.  I did not use a pre-stain wood conditioner, but have seen it recommended and couldn't hurt.  The backer on this was done with the General Finishes Gel Stain

 

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Posted
On 8/5/2019 at 2:47 PM, munzieb said:

A while back I made a Peacock design lamp (4 sides) from 1/8 " plywood 17" x 5.5". I went back and cleaned up the pattern and had my wife invert the pattern in photo shop so I would cut away the black instead of the white. (I get confused) I've looked at some exotic woods like Padauk and bubinga because of the rich colors, but they tend tend to be brittle. Plywood is stronger and I wondered if anyone has tried to cut veneered wood? I would have to use a skip tooth (down) blade that would not lift the veneer.

20171209_135449.jpg

20171210_174404.jpg

That lamp is gorgeous. I want to make one. Where can I get the pattern?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

all plywood is veneered wood.some are better quality that others. one area of higher quality is the thickness of the veneer. big box stores sell oak ply but the oak veneer is extremely thin and it chips real easy. the maple ply at big box is the same. 

ive made my own veneered wood and scrolled on it. #3 non skip tooth worked great.

ive also scrolled veneer itself. stacked between 2 pieces of 1/4 in ply and making sure theres no space between. came out great.

Posted
3 hours ago, tomsteve said:

all plywood is veneered wood.some are better quality that others. one area of higher quality is the thickness of the veneer. big box stores sell oak ply but the oak veneer is extremely thin and it chips real easy. the maple ply at big box is the same. 

ive made my own veneered wood and scrolled on it. #3 non skip tooth worked great.

ive also scrolled veneer itself. stacked between 2 pieces of 1/4 in ply and making sure theres no space between. came out great.

If I understand the term veneer, its generally a very very thin wood that is applied to thicker wood to change the finish. How are you creating paper thin sheets of wood? RJF

Posted
On 8/21/2019 at 11:45 PM, teachnlearn said:

' ive made my own veneered wood and scrolled on it. #3 non skip tooth worked great.'

Read this from your post and assumed you MADE the veneer. RJF

lookin at it, it does read that way,eh? i didnt make the veneer- just glued veneer onto wood.

Posted
On 8/5/2019 at 5:47 PM, munzieb said:

A while back I made a Peacock design lamp (4 sides) from 1/8 " plywood 17" x 5.5". I went back and cleaned up the pattern and had my wife invert the pattern in photo shop so I would cut away the black instead of the white. (I get confused) I've looked at some exotic woods like Padauk and bubinga because of the rich colors, but they tend tend to be brittle. Plywood is stronger and I wondered if anyone has tried to cut veneered wood? I would have to use a skip tooth (down) blade that would not lift the veneer.

20171209_135449.jpg

20171210_174404.jpg

Sandwich the veneer in between to pieces of wood and secure. I just did 4 prayer napkin holders and the fifth one was 2 pieces of veneer inside the 4 pieces and backwards . I bet I won't make that mistake again

 

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