New Saw on the market

[SCROLLERNATION]

Found a new saw on the market.  Similar to the Dewalt with all those extra toys you normally have to purchase separately already installed on the machine.  Has a dash of EX in it and a tilting table.  $370 Dust extraction too .  Could this be a tradeshow dream? Or the best jobsite portable saw?   Idk but I am excited about it.  Its always fun to see something different.  https://wenproducts.com/collections/power-tools/products/wen-ll2156-21-inch-1-6-amp-variable-speed-parallel-arm-scroll-saw-with-extra-large-dual-bevel-steel-table

[Dak0ta52]

I noticed this saw a few weeks ago. Being new to scrolling I purchased a WEN a few months back before this one was available. I wanted to see if I would enjoy the hobby. Now I'm strongly considering an upgrade to a nicer saw with a deeper throat. I'm looking at the Pegus, Seyco and JET. If I could only sell some of my music equipment. Anyone want to buy a couple high-end guitars and a nice vintage amp?

[SCROLLERNATION]

Your little wen will give you just as much thrill!

[Dak0ta52]

5 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

Your little wen will give you just as much thrill!

I agree it is a good little saw, but definitely a beginner saw. I've got it mounted on a pretty heavy stand I built and there is hardly any vibration. The table however is very small and the upper arm is fixed. Also the knob that tightens on the blade has already broken and I have to use a nut driver to tighten the blade into the blade holder. I have to give it a pretty good twist otherwise the blade will slip. Over time, especially if I'm doing any type fret work, I'll start developing blisters in my palm. Lastly, the throat is only 16 inches which has caused issues on several projects. This new saw from WEN would have been a much better choice had it been available when I made my purchase. Upper arm raises, 21 inch throat, flexible dust blower and a much larger table. This is a hobby I really enjoy and can see this being a long time thing. I'd like a saw that has proven itself for the long haul. I believe the JET is the newest I'd consider but everyone I've heard that has one seems to be happy. The same is true with the Pegus and Seyco.

I'm getting to old to be traveling on weekends playing gigs all over and carrying equipment in and out. My music gear is just sitting here collecting dust and the proceeds from their sales would allow me to purchase some nice wood working equipment.

[SCROLLERNATION]

6 hours ago, Dak0ta52 said:

I agree it is a good little saw, but definitely a beginner saw. I've got it mounted on a pretty heavy stand I built and there is hardly any vibration. The table however is very small and the upper arm is fixed. Also the knob that tightens on the blade has already broken and I have to use a nut driver to tighten the blade into the blade holder. I have to give it a pretty good twist otherwise the blade will slip. Over time, especially if I'm doing any type fret work, I'll start developing blisters in my palm. Lastly, the throat is only 16 inches which has caused issues on several projects. This new saw from WEN would have been a much better choice had it been available when I made my purchase. Upper arm raises, 21 inch throat, flexible dust blower and a much larger table. This is a hobby I really enjoy and can see this being a long time thing. I'd like a saw that has proven itself for the long haul. I believe the JET is the newest I'd consider but everyone I've heard that has one seems to be happy. The same is true with the Pegus and Seyco.

I'm getting to old to be traveling on weekends playing gigs all over and carrying equipment in and out. My music gear is just sitting here collecting dust and the proceeds from their sales would allow me to purchase some nice wood working equipment.

I see.  If your blades are slipping pull the screw all the out clean the oil off the tip and then scuff it up with 120 grit sand paper lightly.  And in your blade clamps reach inside them with a towel and clean them out.   Before you put a blade in there wipe the ends off and scuff the ends with 60 grit sand paper.  You will get a good grip without having to apply so much torque.  Those little 16” saws aren't bad.  Spiral blades will help with the throat issue. I prefer niqua new spiral blades they leave a cleaner edge.  You can look at different blade clamps for your saw here  https://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/page0006.htm 

These blades are the sharpest on the market and will improve your saw but they are also the most expensive. They do not have reverse teeth but if you use the right speed for the wood you are cutting and blade size its rare you get any tear out or fuzz on the bottom they are absolutely amazing. And they cut straight and quiet and leave a polished edge as if you coated it with laquer.  
https://www.pswood.com/best-buy/

You can always make a handle out of wood as well and epoxy it to your screw to give you some torque   Steve good has some leverage designs in his tool selection of his website  look for the dewalt upgrade and modify the pattern to fit your set screw.  That can be found here
https://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/

 

 

I got by with a 14” for a long time.  Eventually once you make a few things and sell them you will move into a bigger saw. No matter what you choose your gonna adjust to it and be happy.   All the hawks, parallel arm drives, scroll mates, hegners and older c arm saws accomplish the same task.  I will say this the two fully adjustable saws for blade aggression front to back will be the hawk and any of the excalibur systems pegas etc.   If you want the ability to adjust the up down stroke you want a Hegner.  Its all personal preference.  Your saw has a benefit of installing the blade 90 degrees to the table.  It has to be a pin end blade but that give you unlimited throat depth.  So you can use it like a band saw.  I think however they don’t do that on the newer 3922 model.  If you have a 3921 or 3920 model it will.  

Here are a majority of my saws I put into storage before I moved   They should help you see the differences in them. The fact that I have so many I obviously enjoy all of them the same. In one picture you will see an excalibur its sitting underneath a hawk   Just for size reference that hawk is a 26 inch and the excalibur is a 30” they take up a lot of space and are heavy  one thing to consider is size and floor space triangle stands help you achieve more room. That big arm on the 30” after a day of fret work wears out my back, shoulder and neck lifting it   For me I am more of a constant tension parallel arm guy than a linkage and I prefer to tilt my table than my head   I see better cutting that way.   I hope these pictures help you see differences in the saws.   Your little wen is an awesome tool and you can work around the throat size I promise.  With a couple products and a knob epoxied to your set screw, sharp blades and cleaning and scuffing the blades before you first put them in the blade holders your gonna have a fun experience just like the bigger “fancy” saws.  

 

 

[Dak0ta52]

Hey Scrollernation, that's so mean!!! That's like scroll saw porn.

I've tried the epoxy for the knob but it didn't work well. Making sure the tip of the bolt is flat and scuffed along with scuffing the blades may help. I'll try that next time I can get on the saw.

Being new, I'm doing a lot of experimenting with blades. I like the FD Ultra Reverse and have been using the #5. These were from a sample pack I had ordered. When I ran out of the UR, I ordered some Pegus MGT #3 and #5. I've found they seem to be sharper and last longer and I was able to cut straighter. I've used the FD Spirals a few times to get by when the throat depth was an issue but have found they are hard to control and bad about leaving fuzzies. When I get low on blades again I may try those from PS Wood.

Rodney

[SCROLLERNATION]

3 minutes ago, Dak0ta52 said:

Hey Scrollernation, that's so mean!!! That's like scroll saw porn.

I've tried the epoxy for the knob but it didn't work well. Making sure the tip of the bolt is flat and scuffed along with scuffing the blades may help. I'll try that next time I can get on the saw.

Being new, I'm doing a lot of experimenting with blades. I like the FD Ultra Reverse and have been using the #5. These were from a sample pack I had ordered. When I ran out of the UR, I ordered some Pegus MGT #3 and #5. I've found they seem to be sharper and last longer and I was able to cut straighter. I've used the FD Spirals a few times to get by when the throat depth was an issue but have found they are hard to control and bad about leaving fuzzies. When I get low on blades again I may try those from PS Wood.

Rodney

Ya i have a lot and am getting another new one then it'll be used saws only for a while. I sold half what I used to have.  They were mainly Hawk. Its good to have backups because when it rains it pours.  Niqua makes the flying dutchmen.  You'll notice all the house names sharktooth etc they are all actually niqua so that will save you money on buying the same blade thinking your trying something new.  I would say the MGT blades are the closest to the ps wood.  They both cut straight and are sharp. But the pegas has the reverse teeth.   My experience has been the ps wood blades are much more sharp and a higher gloss finish is obtained. Its fun trying new stuff out there on the market.  Another blade that cuts straight is the Olson PGT.  The mach blades are not set like the others so you will have that old fashioned crooked push to go straight.  Nice blades though.  I would say the PGT are the most durable though.  The PS wood just a heads up cut really fast because of how sharp they are you wont expect it so theres a warning.  And they turn the tightest in opinion.  When you use the number two blade turning the speed down helps.  That blade is very small and works extremely well at slower speeds and lasts longer.  Blades on full speed last about 30 minutes of cutting for every brand before they should be replaced.  Also the ps wood blades have metal blades and they work great too.  But the regular blades cut aluminum very very well.