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Posted

Let the questions begin.  Things to note the table has positive detents at common angles and is accurate.  The blade chuck screws do not have the end rotation piece they are similar to the hawk style.  However, the Dewalt screws fit perfectly.  The bottom is a dust box and works with the doors open without rattling if your a top feeder.  The arm does stay up by itself without a detent and is able to be locked in the up position but if you plan to lock it and reach back every time to pull and twist the lever you will never wanna use it. There is an acrylic guard under the table above the protractor.  It can be removed. There is a lot and I only have time to post this.  Ask as many questions as you want I will answer them as quickly as I can

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Posted
2 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

I paid $370 for this saw. Including shipping.  I ordered it Wednesday and it was here by Saturday morning. 

I did look at H/D. They're getting $397.99 plus tax so you did good. It looks like a cross between Dewalt/Excalibur/Seyco/Pegas.

Posted
20 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I did look at H/D. They're getting $397.99 plus tax so you did good. It looks like a cross between Dewalt/Excalibur/Seyco/Pegas.

Kinda.  Its more like a Dewalt that doesn't go as fast.  I truly believe that the Dewalt originally was designed to top feed.  This saw cuts semi aggressive but not near as bad as a dewalt.  It cannot be fine tuned like the finer parallel arm link drive systems are able to do.  My PS WOOD and my 30” King are the only two saws I own that have a perfect unadaultered vertical stroke with 0 back and forth blade movement.  And if there is any at all it is not noticeable.  I cannot turn tighter without any error on any other machine than those two.  

Posted

I purchased the WEN 3922 a couple months before this saw hit the market. Being an entry level saw, the bellows for the blower is only the size of a quarter and is mounted so that the upper arm strikes it causing a puff of air to blow the dust off the project. I found that this was not creating enough air movement and was inefficient. I cut the head off a wooden plug (used to cover recessed screws) and glued it to the upper arm where it strikes the bellows. This increased the air movement and moved the dust much better. Not sure what type of bellows system this new saw has but if it's the small one like on other WEN models, you may want to try this little tip. Congrats on the new saw. Hope it provides you with many hours of service.

Posted
1 hour ago, Dak0ta52 said:

I purchased the WEN 3922 a couple months before this saw hit the market. Being an entry level saw, the bellows for the blower is only the size of a quarter and is mounted so that the upper arm strikes it causing a puff of air to blow the dust off the project. I found that this was not creating enough air movement and was inefficient. I cut the head off a wooden plug (used to cover recessed screws) and glued it to the upper arm where it strikes the bellows. This increased the air movement and moved the dust much better. Not sure what type of bellows system this new saw has but if it's the small one like on other WEN models, you may want to try this little tip. Congrats on the new saw. Hope it provides you with many hours of service.

This has an upper and lower bellows and blows a lot of air just like my high end saws.  With the long dust hose you can position the hose out if the way permanently and have a great line if sight and plenty of air keeping the line clean.  

Posted
15 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Looks like a nice sized table and a lot of table surface in front of the blade.. something many other saws on the market lack these days..

I should measure the front if the blade I forgot to do so.  The table is very big and what I do like about it is at the rear of the table it maintains support for larger pieces of thinner material.  I wish I could adjust the stroke though cause why not? Lol.  Another positive about it is on the right hand side the tension lever is also used for pulling the arm down so its comfortable.  It has a long handle for adjusting tension that is also used for dropping the arm

Posted
3 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

I should measure the front if the blade I forgot to do so.  The table is very big and what I do like about it is at the rear of the table it maintains support for larger pieces of thinner material.  I wish I could adjust the stroke though cause why not? Lol.  Another positive about it is on the right hand side the tension lever is also used for pulling the arm down so its comfortable.  It has a long handle for adjusting tension that is also used for dropping the arm

Looking at the measuring tape where you measured the table, it looks like the distance from the blade to the front of the table is 8 1/2 inches. That's considerably larger than a lot of scroll saws currently on the market.

Posted
17 hours ago, Dak0ta52 said:

Looking at the measuring tape where you measured the table, it looks like the distance from the blade to the front of the table is 8 1/2 inches. That's considerably larger than a lot of scroll saws currently on the market.

That's what I was thinking.. hard to tell for sure with the angle of the picture to the tape etc.. but it's a lot more than most saws out there.. I think the Seyco has 8" as does the Pegas larger table option. If I remember correct the DeWalt was 6.5" and the Hawk is 6".. The stock Pegas, EX type saws is 3.5" the 22" Jet is only like 3" but the 18" Jet is about 3.5" 

 

Posted
20 hours ago, SCROLLERNATION said:

I should measure the front if the blade I forgot to do so.  The table is very big and what I do like about it is at the rear of the table it maintains support for larger pieces of thinner material.  I wish I could adjust the stroke though cause why not? Lol.  Another positive about it is on the right hand side the tension lever is also used for pulling the arm down so its comfortable.  It has a long handle for adjusting tension that is also used for dropping the arm

Yeah the back of the table is nice sized for those large thinner flimsy pieces we cut. That is one issue with the Hawk as the back portion of the table is only like 6" wide or so. If you cut into the edge of the wood and are cutting out a profile shape the thin wood falls off the table and as you spin the wood around it'll get hung up on the tables edge etc. A work around to not have this happen for me was to not cut through the edge.. drill a hole and feed the blade as this stabilizes the wood more.. But could be a issue on really large projects like you have coming up.  

Posted
3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Yeah the back of the table is nice sized for those large thinner flimsy pieces we cut. That is one issue with the Hawk as the back portion of the table is only like 6" wide or so. If you cut into the edge of the wood and are cutting out a profile shape the thin wood falls off the table and as you spin the wood around it'll get hung up on the tables edge etc. A work around to not have this happen for me was to not cut through the edge.. drill a hole and feed the blade as this stabilizes the wood more.. But could be a issue on really large projects like you have coming up.  

I can’t remember what my ps wood has but it is a substantial amount as well more than my others.  And like this wen it has a large table all the way back but with one difference.  The table is actually machined to a bevel so nothing gets hung up if it does drop down on you when spinning.  This saw will actually be going to work on my box

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/25/2021 at 11:56 AM, SCROLLERNATION said:

I should measure the front if the blade I forgot to do so.  The table is very big and what I do like about it is at the rear of the table it maintains support for larger pieces of thinner material.  I wish I could adjust the stroke though cause why not? Lol.  Another positive about it is on the right hand side the tension lever is also used for pulling the arm down so its comfortable.  It has a long handle for adjusting tension that is also used for dropping the arm

Where is it made

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