How do you secure your SS to your benchtop? Rubber washers and bolts? T-Nuts and bolts? Lag screws? Direct bolt to top no rubber?

[Tallbald]

When Penny and I bought our WEN 16 inch saw, I made my first tilt top table. The saw had of course to be secured to the stand top. Looking to reduce vibration transmission I made 1/4 inch thick rubber washers to mount between the saw mounting holes and the thick wood top. I figured the factory rubber isolated mount holes were to do the same thing. I used 5/16 inch lag screws to secure the saw.

Now our Jet is coming. I can do the same thing with firm rubber spacers between the stand top and the feet of the saw. 

Do rubber spacers really reduce vibration at the work surface of a saw?

don.

[TAIrving]

My Pegas 21" SS sits on my benchtop unfastened; no lag screws, no bolts, no rubber washers, just the feet that came with the SS.  I adjust the speed to find the minimum vibration point. 

This works for me but I do occasionally think about fastening it via one or the other of the methods you mentioned, just haven't done so yet, it is not a burning issue.  As I said, just sitting there unfastened works for me.  

[OCtoolguy]

My two Ex's are bolted directly to the stands that I made for them. The stands both sit on foam rubber flooring.

 

[kmmcrafts]

Before I started buying higher end saws I used to use a piece of carpet padding between the saw and stand.. worked quite well so long as you don't bolt it down so tight that you end up squishing the padding so much that there isn't any cushion, LOL.. I used to run the saw through the various speed ranges as I tighten the bolts until I found that sweet spot with the least amount of vibration. 

[Joe W.]

I combined a couple suggestions I found on-line and used wood 4x4s for the legs and two 2 inch slabs of wood for the base. bolted the SS down with a piece of carpet in between and put collapsible casters on the legs. 
Use it in my garage and like the ability to move it around.  It is heavy and I believe helps dampen vibration.
I also found a suggestion to make a frame box with 2x4s and fill it with sand and put the SS on top of that.
Not too long ago I saw a UTube video of a guy cutting with a Pegas on a metal frame stand doing the "nickel test" where the nickel is laying on its edge on the table while the guy is cutting - so maybe the heavy route was not necessary.  But I made the stand for mine and it makes me feel good that it works. 

[Tallbald]

I believe I'll try both with and without the 1/4 inch rubber washers between the metal saw feet and the stand top. I appreciate all the answers here and will try a couple things. I suppose in any case the washers won't hurt. 

Don.

[Bill WIlson]

My thought is, none of those vibration dampening methods will hurt anything.  Start with what is easiest and escalate as needed.

 

My EX is bolted directly to the factory stand, which sits directly on the concrete floor.  The only vibration dampening might come from the little rubber padded adjustable feet on the bottom of the stand.  I've never had enough concern to do anything different.  However, this thread got me thinking.  I have a section of cushioned floor mat that I might put under the saw, just to see what happens.

[Tallbald]

Bill I'd be interested in hearing your results. perhaps others would also.

Thanks. Don.

[Dak0ta52]

The first stand I built only had a 3/4" top and I experienced vibration. I removed that and replaced it with a 1 1/2" top and then covered it with a thin layer of rubber (tool box drawer liner). Even with a cheap WEN saw I have virtually no vibration regardless of my speed setting. It's my opinion that the more stable the base, the less vibration you will experience.

[OCtoolguy]

I do know that Hegner saws are very tempermental regarding how they are mounted to the factory stand. I was getting a lot of vibration with the saw sitting on concrete. So I loosened all 3 of the hold down bolts and tried tightening in different order. What I found worked best was to tighten the two front bolts (closest to operator) and then the rear bolt. That really made a difference. I then moved the saw and stand inside my shop where it sits on plywood floor with foam fatigue mat. It's very smooth through all speed ranges. So, I'd be cautious of adding anything that might throw out the geometry of the saw's base. 

[Tallbald]

Thank you all for your time and responses. I believe I'll try a couple ways to see if there's any difference. Thanks again. Don