Pixman
-
Posts
90 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by Pixman
-
One of the problems many people have is with the way MDF drinks paint. After a time your well painted surface goes patchy as it soaks into the MDF, especially on the edges. So here's another cheap and cheerful way of curing an MDF problem -- a cheap way of undercoating and priming. Squeeze some white PVA glue [i think its called Elmers Glue in the US] into a container. Now thin it with water until its like craft paint. Now paint it over the MDF surface with an extra coat around the edges. It should dry clear according to the label directions. Give it a light rub with fine paper 320 or 400 grit to give a 'tooth' for the paint, but don't worry about the edges. When its dry paint as required.
-
I think Mike has summed it up very well. Over the years I have used a scroll saw I have found that some machines seem to like certain blades depending on speed, tension, type of wood used etc. In general I favor spirals for portraits, number 5's as my main flat blade for general wood thickness, with 7's and higher for thick wood. If you look at Olson's chart you'll see that they recommend certain TPI [teeth-per-inch] for various woods, plywood and MDF etc. The TPI is a moveable recommendation to any sort of blade. What makes the difference is how various blades -- Olson, Flying Dutchman etc -- are manufactured. It's a bit like fans arguing Ford v Chrysler, Canon v Nikon etc if you get my drift. It comes down to what you find best suits you. Hope this helps. Magic
-
Most PVA glues -- white solution [like Elmers] which goes clear when it hardens -- can be found in an "indoor" and "outdoor" mix. The outdoor mix has a harder grab and makes a tighter joint. Gorilla glue is a fine brand. Some glues leave a yellow line. Magic
-
Thanks for the info on the Ex 21 blade clamping David. I've been having a bit of trouble with the clamping on the lower part of the blade but now know what I'm doing wrong and can fix the problem. Thanks to a recent financial windfall I was able to to buy a saw that's been on my wish list for a long time and I'm enjoying every minute with it. No more 2 minute blade changes. Magic
-
Try Picasa by Google. It does most things you'll need. Just put Picasa in the search line.
-
I know that prices are relative to the country you live in but here is something to make you feel a bit better about the money you spent. Down here in New Zealand the Excaliber saws have just become available at NZ$1500 - NZ$1600. Now, look at the money you could have spent!!! Feel better now??
-
I got so frustrated after trying all sorts of miter devices I gave up. Now I make box frames for my portraits with the internal slot. Lazy but less stressful.
-
TO REDUCE PATTERNS -- Most of the time I use Rapid Resizer. Here's the link - http://rapidresizer.com/ One other way is through Photoshop. Import the image, change Image Size, save under different name, print.
-
Practice pieces. I'm working at reducing Victorian fretwork pieces to 1/12 [inch] and 1/24 [1/2 inch] scale to do some dollhouse miniature pieces. Garbage collection tomorrow will make more room for the pile that didn't make it. Working in those scales makes you very aware of your fingertips! Magic