JTTHECLOCKMAN

Here is a Sierra Vista kit with a blank I casted using a silver tinned copper braiding material. It was cast in clear poly resin. Thanks for looking.

As always beautiful work. Nice use of materials. Thanks for showing.

Thanks everyone for the kind words. I do love these blanks and am looking for a black pearled blank to go with this. Have not been successful yet but there may be something out there. Thanks again.

Thanks everyone for looking and for the kind words. Makes one feel good. Hope to have a few more in the future. I am now working on some clocks I need to get done. Hope to have photos of those as well. Trying to keep busy through these snow storms we are having on the east coast this winter.

This white acrylic material is the whitest acrylic I have used to date and it has a pearled look to it. I put it on an Ultra Cigar kit and also a Jr Statesman kit. Thanks for looking and as always any comments or questions are always welcomed.

A few more carbon fiber blanks I casted and put on some pen kits. The first is a blue/black CF on a cigar kit. The second is a green/black CF on a cigar kit. And finally for the ladies a pink/black CF on an elegant beauty kit. Thanks for looking and as always any comments or questions are always welcomed.

Got back in the shop this week and to warm up the tools for usage I decided to turn a few pens. Here is one that is an ultra cigar kit and I casted a black/grey carbon fiber material for the blank. I have a few more to follow. Need to charge the batteries in the camera. Thanks for looking and as always any comments and or questions are always welcomed.

John, I like the aquarium pump idea. I even have a couple laying around here somewhere. But not sure how to put it on the saw. Could you give me an idea how to set it up? Thanks for your help!! Steve and Terry Steve way back when I first started scrolling aover 25 years ago, I had a Dremel 2 speed scrollsaw. They were all the rage because all these big companies were not around yet and these things everyone who scrolled owned one. But the blower was not good with it so I used an aquariam pump. All I did was place the pump off to the side. I eventuall made a little shelf for it and attached the shelf to the dremel stand it came with. I then took the clear flexible tubing which you can buy in home centers today and at that time got mine in the fish store. Attached it to the arm of the saw using tie wraps which again you can get at home centers. Cut the end on an angle and put a loop it in so that the dust would blow away from me and not torward me as most saws have. I used a two way adapter on my chord and turned it on. It stayed on till I was done. I have one of those power strips where all my scrollsaws are plugged into and at night all I do is turn the power strip off and shuts down everything that is plugged into it. Worked great and was quiet. They are cheap and you can probably find them in yard sales or even ebay.

Kev Just out of curiosity, do you have that movement that clock was designed for???? It was designed for a mini insert and was listed by Klokit. They do not carry it any more. It was a mini skeleton clock. Sorry I can not be of any more help to you. Good luck.

That is John Nelson's clock. It should be in one of his books. I remember seeing it somewhere. He used to have a web site where he sold his patterns but I do not have it and it probably doesn't exist any more. I think he spends all his time traveling these days. I had the pleasure of working on some prototype projects of his and one in particular was his flexible watch plan. Way back then, there was a marriage between his patterns, CWW&C and Steebar and I was invited in. I wound up doing alot of projects for Steebar and did alot of John' patterns as well. Times have changed though. Here you go. Here is the book I was thinking of. Find this in the library or other book stores. http://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/p-11 ... ition.aspx

When comparison shoping you have to know abit more about the older saws. There are various models of the RBI220. Is it the older version with the barrel clamps, if so skip it. Is it a VS model or an older 2 speed, skip it What is the condition of the saw?? As far as the Hegner goes, again what model is it?? How big is it, and does it have the upfront blade tension lever. If it does not skip it. You know what you are getting with the Dewalt and brand new with full warrenty. None of the others have a warrenty. Now if the RBI is a Hawk 220vs and in good condition, that is the way I would go. Tough call when you are buying a used piece of equipment though. Just my 2¢

Are you looking for the plans or just the photo or both or the whole issue???

Man I don't even see that year listed in their back issues link. Is that the year they started??? They may not have any back issues because of that reason.

Now if we are talking about woods that we use everyday in our projects I would have to say Red Oak because I use it alot. But my favorite wood or woods are the woods in the rosewood family, these woods are some of the nicest grained and I always call them the classiest woods out there. I like to use these as accent woods. Now you can add to this list with any burl around. You will get the most stunning looking woods from burls. I think we need to expand our use of woods when we make projects. Experiment is always a good thing. There are many sources for woods. Good luck and happy scrolling.

Mark I do not own an eclippse but I have cut on them and yes they are a great saw. To me overpriced but that is another story for another day. They are all hand made so that is why the long wait. Ernie is a good man and will tell it like it is. You should in my opinion not have been charged for the saw untill it was made. Now of course the other side of that is he needs the money to get the parts. But that is business. Again another story for another day. The saw is a tremendous upgrade from what you are using. There is no and I mean no vibration in that saw. The saw does cut a little differently than other saws that are parallel arms in that it is a true perpendicular cutting saw and the blade goes truely up and down as with a parallel arm saw it has an arc to it thus making it a faster cutting saw. The eclippse is a slower cutting saw and will take a short bit of getting used to. You won't be disappointed though. Good luck with it. Boy I just wrote this whole big lecture about buying the right saw and had to delete after I reread it because it might have been offensive to some. My thoughts are just buy the best saw you can afford and I think we should even take it to the next level. You will always be able to get your money back for the saw if you decide to sell , they keep their value unlike the cheap saws and you can also earn a few dollars selling your wares to pay for it. That is all and happy scrolling

Just a note when people talk forstner bits, alot of times they are referring to a sawtooth bit. A true forstner bits does not have jagged teeth going around the outside edge. These are sharpened differently than a sawtoothed bit. But here is a chart that shows bit speed and also a couple photos of sharpening. The one key thing is to never touch the outside of the bit with a grinding wheel or file. This will change the dimentions on the hole it cuts. Always sharpen from inside out. A small diamond file are very handy to touch up the edges of the bits and if you keep the file flat against all cutting edges a few quick passes and it is good to go. If you google forstner bit sharpening you will see many examples of how to do this. Good luck. Here is the chart. http://www.wwch.org/TechData/Forstner_B ... Lo_Res.jpg

It probably is an easy fix if it is just the bellow. Some people and I was one of them when I first started with a Dremel 2 speed saw way back when, buy a fish aquarium pump. Works great. As far as the bits go for you to be getting burning in the second use a couple things maybe the cause. First off Grizzly is not the best bits out there but still should cut . SPEED is the culprit. Slow the speed down. Let me say that again. Slow the speed down. A forstner bit is not a high speed bit and the larger the size the slower the speed. A good bit will have the speed stamped on the bit or on the box it came with. The other thing to make sure is if cutting into resinous wood it will build up on the rim of the cutter so you need to clean this. Also keep the bits sharp. Good luck and happy drilling./

Did I mention I make clocks??? You do not mention what size the clock insert is. Normalli if it is a 2-3/4" insert and you are using 3/4" wood you need to drill all the way through anyway. If it is the small 1-7/16" I only drill deep enough for the insert to fit in. I do not put a battery in the clock until it is bought.gone through alot of batteries that way. I use the blade of a pocket knife to pop the insert out if I can not do it with my fingernail. Never had a problem. I include instructions on the bottom of the clock that explains this and how to adjust the time. What the others have said is not a bad idea if you feel more confortable with that. Good luck.

You can get a brand new Dewalt for $450 with all the bells and whistles. I would not buy it.

In one of my latest woodworking magazines they have a few tools that are being recalled for various reasons. Some may already know of these or have gotten recall notices. But I see often people asking about new tools for their purchase so this may be of interest. Grizzly metal/wood 17" bandsaw model#G0640X Ridgid 10" Tablesaw model #R4511 with date codes betweenCD0829 and CD0837 Rockler magnifying light model #27017 and 26429 purchased between3/27/09 and10/25/09 Shop Fox dust collector model #D3038 and D3346 Need to contact the respective dealers

As mentioned there is no set rule. Always check the clock insert. The company you buy from will always tell you the hole needed.

I am an all around scroller but like the fret work clocks both large and desk type. I also am a turner and trying to incorporate both artforms together. This year I wat to try my hand at an intarsia project. Have never done one but I have one I want to give a shot at. Will see. Scrolling and turning are fun hobbies and you really can get alot of enjoyment out of both.

Welcome to the scrolling world. I am sure you will have hours and hours of fun with your new found hobby. I was never one for using spiral blades. To me they are basically for portraits and things that do not need nice straight lines . I always got jagged edges with them because the blade is always cutting. I would highly suggest to learn to use flat edge blades first. The idea of setting your chair off center is always a good one especially when using flat blades. Spirals it does not matter as much. There are a ton of patterns and ornaments for the holiday season to try. Good luck and look forward to seeing some of your work posted here.

Merlin It is not that simple. The wood ones are made with a close grain wood and getting the stain to penetrate all the way through has been a problem. I need to find another way to get the color all the way through. I am thinking I may boil the sticks before placeing in the stainand this will open them up more. I am experimenting a little. Haven't worked out all the details yet.

I have a lead on some and will check it out tomorrow. I would rather not say at this time. If it does come out half way decent I will post a photo or two. Thanks everyone.