jeffflan

Thanks for your comments. I think you are correct in that while the test universals 'look' robust, only loading them with a wind power source will prove their worth. Wood grain angle is also important (as suggested). The universal in the photo (in two pieces) did snap along the grain. It has been repaired with clear wood glue however I do not have much confidence in its durability. Maybe I should look for a tighter grained wood, however I think that would also be heavier (weight) and present other issues. Huon Pine is tight and light, and very expensive. It would sacrilege to use Huon Pine on a whirligig. Tempting but.

Thank you for your encouragement. Whirligigs are fun and attract attention from young and old. My first book was "Easy-to-Make Whirligigs" by Anders S Lunde, published in USA and distributed by Dover Publications This is a good place to start and explains the basics of wings, bodies, materials, etc. As opportunities presented I purchased more of Lunde's publications, including: "Action Whirligigs", and "Making Animated Whirligigs", which progress from the "Easy-to-Make..." publication. These are also published in USA by Dover. See their list at 'www.doverpublications.com'. We have a local source in Australia so I have never dealt with Dover. I have three other books: . "Folk Toys" by Ken Folk, published by Stackpole Books - in Mechanicsburg, PA . "Scroll Saw Castles" by (an Australian) Jim Stirling, published by Fox Chapel Publishing in East Petersburg, PA . "Making Mad Toys & Mechanical Marvels in Wood" by Rodney Frost, from Sterling Publishing in New York I haven't used these three publications with the same enthusiasm as the Lunde offerings. So much to do in so little time.

I would like to attempt the Anders S Lunde 'Nothing Factory' whirligig, but, I want to split the drive train using very small wooden universal joints. The 'Nothing Factory' will probably require a four blade propeller to generate enough power to move the characters, usually placed in (a straight) line. I have cut two universal joints (using my scrollsaw) however I would appreciate the views of other members, and any pictures available. My trial universal joints were cut from baltic pine and employ fine brass tube bearings, for minimal friction. Picture attached. Thanks.

My interest started making wind turbines using 'Coke' cans. I discovered Irish sourced beer cans (Murphys) were more robust and more to my taste. I moved on to Pantanenome using brass blades and PVC pool pipe because they could catch the wind from any direction. This led me to some Anders S Lunde patterns and scroll saw application. I would like to make a Lunde style 'Nothing Factory' using universal joints to split the power train, (another post). Most of my whirligigs use patterns sourced from the USA. The posts come from old TV antenna, the fixings are plumbing pipe stop ends with 5/32" brass tech screws going into 5/32" brass tube. The timber is whatever scrap I can find, usually on the side of the road, from abandoned furniture, drawers etc. I think I should develop some Australian subjects. There must be some suitable candidates in our huge bird population. Meanwhile if any member has a photo of a 'Nothing Factory' I would be pleased to see it. Thank you for the opportunity to participate in the Scroll Saw Village.

Retired 2005. Purchased a Hegner (copy) scrollsaw a few months ago to make whirligigs, after reading 'The New Scroll Saw Handbook' by Patrick Spielman and a few Anders Lunde publications. Obtain most of my wood from circa 1950's abandoned furniture, draws etc. Added a 7" 'Daylight' brand magnifying light to the saw bench. Good setup. Gardening, home maintenance, and travel occupy most of my time. Nova Scotia and Newfoundland next month, followed by Glacier NP, Boise and Ranier NP before the next northern autumn.