kmmcrafts

ME TOO!! I have pattern books I've bought and then never ever cut any of those awesome patterns.. I bet nobody else ever waste money on patterns and then never cut them out.. Right? LOL.. I'm the same way with wood / lumber.. I take my dust collector sawdust over to my brothers lumber mill to empty into his sawdust pile since he sells sawdust from the mill.. and it's a easy way for me to get rid of my sawdust ( mostly from my planner.) . Anyway, every time I go he sends me home with a truck load of lumber.. I'm getting stacked up and backed up on lumber.. I have piles of it and then I started putting up in the rafters and now that's getting full.. No scrap wood for me.. just pieces I haven't used yet,

Might as well use as a pattern and save on printer ink rather than shedding them.. or am I missing something.. LOL.. That is what I was thinking about doing.. I do agree, why save them once scanned you have the pattern.. I do recommend backing up patterns to a few different devices in case one fails.. or store to a online cloud thing.. I had a hard drive fail one and lost at least 20,000 patterns.. most of which were free patterns from some of the old MSN groups back in the day.. maybe 15 - 20 years ago.. I used to save every pattern I come across so it wasn't like I was going to cut every one of them.. I'd like to try though, LOL

First is to start with the basics.. like... is it plugged in good to the wall and does the wall outlet have power.. Are you using a foot switch? maybe that is bad.. try bypassing the foot switch.. I'm not up on the Hegners or even electrical stuff so I don't know much about diagnosis but I think I've read in the past about these having start capacitors or something? Actually think I seen them in the parts list the other day while researching something else. I don't know but please let us all know what you find out and hopefully it's nothing major.

Paul the newer Hegners have a flex line for the bellows.. I think that is a bracket for holding it in place. I tried to find an image with a good view of this area but wasn't successful, however if you look at the screenshot on the helpful videos page of their site the first video shows the hose going through what looks like that same bracket.. https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/helpful-videos-demonstrations-advanced-machinery

Looks like a nice set-up... I've seen several variations of PVC pipe dust collection manifolds etc... I may try to build something up of my own.. Like the larger handle.. they sure didn't take comfort into consideration when designing that handle..

I think in order to be within the copywrite / trademark laws you have to retain the original copies.. A lot of books I have I'd only use a handful of the designs from them so no I personally don't want to do the whole book.. That said, I wonder if you showed a designer proof of having the pattern if they'd share the fine so you could get a good digital copy instead of trying to scan.. However that would also be quite annoying to the designer if everyone started doing that too.. LOL I think in my case I'm going to take a razor knife and cut the pattern pages out that I want and then place them back in the book. If they get lost or whatever so what.. I have my digital file as has been mentioned..

I used both the new to me saw and my Hawk. The Shamrock and about half of the Easter Trivets was done on the new to me saw. Others was done on the Hawk. I'm not certain where I picked the pattern up from but it says to email paulboer12@gmail.. also says free to use and share.. so not sure about if it's okay to share here on the village or not. If you want a copy I'll send you one in the messenger since it says I can share it right on the pattern paper.. Just not sure it is to be uploaded to the village since it's not really mine? Anyway shoot me a message if you want a copy.

So is the vacuum the noise what's loud or the suction noise from the hose or both, LOL.. I have a vacuum that's quite quiet rated at 62dbl. and it isn't bad but I've seen where the suction noise is too much for some folks.. I used to use my big shop vac.. now that was loud.. but not too bad if I put it on the other end of the shop, LOL Thank you

Paul, did your saw come with the flexible line? My saw only has a plastic or nylon? hose that runs from the bellows to a metal connector on top of the upper arm.. that metal connector then extends through the upper arm and has a air nozzle aimed toward the front of the saw.. In some ways I like it because there is no flex line to have to adjust periodically when it gets bumped etc.. but I don't like the fact that it blows the sawdust "at me" rather than off to the side. I'd like to finally set up one of my saws with a dust vacuum of sorts rather than a blower to stir it up even more throughout the shop.. I'm thinking about putting this saw up in my loft where my laser is.. That fine dust that settles and the laser machine is a explosion waiting to happen, LOL.. That is why the laser is up in the storage / inventory area.. with plenty of fire extinguishers.. But it's quite boring to run the laser because there is nothing to do up there but watch the laser do it's thing or design new things on the laptop that's running the laser.. no wifi signal up there so.. running it for any long periods of time is kinda boring..

I did think about that just about an hour ago.. I'm going to try that before I cut this book up... Thanks

I'm not talking about the bellows.. the bellows on mine is great.. but it doesn't have a flex tube hooked to it so it constantly blows the dust right at me.. this is a kit to use a vacuum and collect the dust from both below and above the table..

Anyone using the dust control thing from Hegner? https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/saw-dust-management-system?variant=26762215494 Just wondered how this thing performs, I know I could build something from PVC etc and probably what I'll do but was just curious how this performs.. If I hear some good reviews of this I might just order it instead..

I think you’re going to love that saw! Congratulations, look forward to hearing your thoughts on it.

Some cuttings I did this week. Not sure exactly how I intend to finish up the John 3:16 as it’s just 1/8” bbply. Thinking about making a slightly larger heart shape backer from Walnut. Trivets cut from 1/2” Cherry and will probably be dipped in Danish oil once I get a few more things made. Also worked on doing some gluing pieces together for the Cogsworth project I’ve been working on in the sideworks. Have also done some cutting board glue ups that maybe one day I’ll laser something on them.

I hadn't thought about cutting the binder part off with a table saw.. but I did think about it with the bandsaw or heck.. even the scroll saw.. I see there are people cutting designs from old books with the scroll saw so I should be able to cut the binder part of the book off.. Hate to ruin ( so to speak ) the book but I also hate my projects not turning out well because of poor scans too.. I've thought about re-subscribing to the magazine.. I do miss them and on one hand I'd hate to see them go out of business.. on the other hand... we've been telling them to go digital or at least layout the patterns so they're easier to scan for years.. I complained about this back in 2007 - 8.. I think they've had plenty of time to consider and if they go out because of the lack of subscribers it's on them for not keeping up with the times...

Yes, I stopped subscribing to the magazine sort of because of this.. but to be honest I stopped when the other magazine went under.. that one IMO was the best of the two of them I knew of anyway. I think the name of the one I liked was Creative Woodworks and Crafts? Anyway I realized I really didn't use the patterns too much anyway and the way they cram them in there is stupid for anyone that does want to use them.. I have often thought about buying those digital versions from the magazine... I typically go to the new stands and read the magazine.. If I find a pattern I like they usually list who the design is from and most designers have a website.. I go there to purchase the one I want and get the digital version that way. I can't go in and show you the book because of copyright / trademark.. but in this particular book and this particular pattern for some reason the put the edge of it over toward the center on the book and put descriptive stuff on the other side.. hence it makes it more difficult to scan the page.. I think that's what really makes me mad.. like lets put the patterns way over into the crease of the book.. I know a lot of folks might have issue with sizing patterns, but if they made the pattern smaller so it could be scanned easier then have a note to enlarge it X amount so we could scan them in anyway.. instead of putting the pattern clear over into the crease where the scanner doesn't pick it up..

How do you guys get your patterns printed when they are in a book? Do you cut the page out of the book or do you try to scan it without ripping out pages? I usually don't do patterns from books because of this issue and I hate the idea of taking books apart.. But I guess it is just a book and once I have the patterns on my computer I could throw the book away.. seems kind of wasteful to me... It'd be really nice to see them digitalize magazines and these books.. Magazines isn't such an issue to me because you can take the staples loose and remove the large paper pattern section and place on a scanner.. the one thing about those is.. they're printed on both sides of this large paper and if you want patterns from both sides you end up folding it 50 times both ways until you get to the right pattern, LOL. If you cut out the pattern then you likely cut through something good on the opposite side. I got this book for Christmas and have been enjoying the patterns until the last one I cut the other day kinda messed up my project because I ran out of line to follow.. this happen on both a couple of the inside cuts and the outer profile.. while in the cropped photo section posted below this doesn't look horrible as you can see somewhat where the red / pinkish lines would be.. BUT, I only have a black and white printer... add magnification into the mix of that blur and I couldn't do anything but guess where to cut.. also add the fact that I was cutting on a saw that I wasn't acquainted with too.. I've seen worst cuttings but this came out kinda bad.. and it's too the fault of me not wanting to rip out a page in the book, but this make me mad as heck.. I'm about to rip the whole book to sheds and put it all on computer file then go burn what's left of the papers. But before I do that.. I'm asking you guys if there is a better way to get the patterns printed? Photos below of my project and a cropped portion of my pattern where it made me mess up.

I kind of thought so by the red colored uprights at the back that I think are cast?

If that wedge gets too rounded you'll start snapping blades.. as it'll allow the tension to not be consistent as those rock back and forth.. Also if you're saw has the front tension lever there is an adjustment on the bottom of where the lever goes into the arm.. underneath there is a very small set screw. When you flip the lever over without a blade in the saw that lever should have some resistance to it about 1/8" - 1/4" before it goes to the "locking position ".. The very old saws didn't have that set screw and in those cases you have to replace the cam lever.. Or. you can just wrap a rubber band around the lever when it gets so bad it starts popping the blade tension lever up when turning the saw on. Edit to say: It doesn't look like that wedge has been oiled.. I believe that is supposed to take a drop of oil every 20 -25 hours of use.. depending on age the arm bearings are also supposed to be oiled and there is a spot up by the front tension cam with a hole in it.. drop of oil in that hole as well..

Zooming in on the photo I'd say the wedge is worn.. Yes you need the washer for sure.. As for the wedge.. As Ray said you can probably just dress it.. I dressed mine from time to time by just using a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge.. It's supposed to be quite pointed almost to the point of being sharp. Each time you dress it you're making it shorter though.. so eventually it'll mess with your upper arm adjustment.. so you'll think your blades are getting longer because the arm comes down too far.. may have to crank the lock nut on the bottom of the rod under the lower arm to adjust that.. Properly tuned the upper arm should come all the way down and meet the top of the blade in just the right position to clamp it.. Edit to add: Yours don't look too bad but proper dressing it is actually sending the upper arm in for Bushton to machine the V.. I think now days they machine it out for the updated " replacement " round insert V like the new saws have.

Congrats on the new saw.. I always wanted to try a Pegas.. but it's probably not a lot different to use than my Excalibur..

last week we was -4 at night and about 10 - 15 during the day.. this week way warmer.. global warming is happening fast. supposed to be about 60 today and right now almost 40 at 7am. lol.. I have heat in the shop but the walk to work can be terrible if it hasn't been shoveled yet. .. Today with all the snow melting and it's also raining. hopefully I don't get distracted and try fishing in the puddles..

If you replace this piece the clamps don't go to the floor.. they stay in the saw.. I had the same issue with my older Hawk.. These are made of plastic ( I've heard they have spring steel ones now but not certain they have it for the round clamp style.. My Untra has plastic ones and it gets weak and needs replaced every couple years.. The new BM saw has a spring steel one.. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/barrel-style-blade-holder-clip/ This is really a pretty simple device and one could likely make one from some spring steel..

That is how I've been doing it as that is what is suggested in the videos on Hegners site..

Well that doesn't work the way I think it should.. If I turn that knob at the back so the arm is adjusted at approximately the right height to where the blade should slide right into the clamp then put tension on the blade it's too tight of a blade according to the video I watched, The video says to achieve proper tension turn ( loosen ) the knob until there is play in the rod and then tighten it just until there is some tension on the rod, then turn it 1/3 of a turn.. and up to 2 full turns more on larger blades if needed.. If I turn that so the arm is at the right height for the blade then tension it.. takes about 5 turns in order to get that slack in the rod at the back.. so doing that makes the blade about 3 turns over tighten.. On the Hawk they have if figured out to where you can change the distance between the upper and lower arms so you can adjust the top arm to bottom out at the right length of blade.. then set your tenson and it'll be the same every time you put in a new blade.. Unless of coarse you get one of those darn Pegas blades that has that extra little tip on the end sometimes.. At any rate it's not a big deal I guess to just bottom out the clamp onto the blade as Paul mentioned.. that's what I had been doing.. The Hawk just spoiled me I guess with all its adjustments.. I don't have to think about lowering the arm to a certain position and clamping the blade.. I just lower it all the way then insert the blade & clamp.