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tgiro

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Everything posted by tgiro

  1. tgiro
    The first thing we made, in high school freshman shop class, was a sanding block. It actually had a lock mechanism to trap the sand paper to the block. Mine has been long since lost. Now, I just wrap a piece of sandpaper around a piece of scrap wood - works fine.
  2. tgiro
    I've been using Bob Smith CA - thin and medium, for years. I've also used Cap City, but it's more expensive. I used the medium more than the thin. I use the accelerator in certain instances. The accelerator is not water. It's some alcohol chemical mixture. Be careful with accelerator - it can make the dried glue brittle and the joint will break easily. I use the medium to coat my turned pens (5 - 6 rubbed on coats) - a trick I learned from Barry Gross. I use the accelerator on each coat to dry it quickly. Trick - drop a couple of dabs of CA when edge laminating boards. The CA dries quick and keeps the boards from shifting as you clamp them together. Medium CA and sawdust makes a good filler material. I never use CA as my final glue for wood. Titebond II or III or epoxy wins. But CA has it's uses.
  3. tgiro
    BTW - for those who are thinking about a Fox Chapel show in May -- unless you have other information, I haven't been able to find anything about one. Carole Rothman said she had found some info on an Open House, but not a full sponsored show. Fox Chapel held a show for a couple of years, but dropped it because of the high expenses. They partnered with a Steam engine/tractor group for a park for a couple of days. The problem was that those wonderful big steam engines rolling by, often interrupted the class sessions. I have emailed Fox Chapel Publishers directly to see if there is anything happening there, this spring/summer. Based on their reply, I post what they respond.
  4. tgiro
    Disappointing - It was a very small show. Maybe 18 - 20 vendors in one large ballroom size room. Peachtree wasn't there and I know some of the smaller guys sell through them. No scroll saw anything - zip nada. There was some wood turning demos and a couple of general cabinet demos and Alex Snodgrass was doing his thing for Carter Tools. There was only a couple of wood vendors and they did have some nice boards but were awfull expensive. The Drillnado/Scrollnado guy was there but he didn't appreciate my review of his products. And, BTW, I don't recommend them. I didn't bother with pictures. Not enough worth taking take pictures. Hopefully, the Timonium, MD show will be better. They have more area for display and maybe Peachtree or one of the other major vendors will be there. Unfortunately, that's not until January of next year.
  5. tgiro
    I'm off to the show in Chantilly, VA, today. Hope to see some nice wood and a couple of attachments for shop tools. Other than that, I have a padlock on the wallet pocket to keep me from using it too much. anyone else going from this area (PA, MD, VA DC, WV)?
  6. tgiro
    My first attempt at the winter bear, from Wood magazine - as compared to the custom bears I did for my wife's relatives 50th wedding anniversary. She's a retired RN and he's a retired contractor that rebuilds old 1950's Ford Thunderbirds as a hobby.
  7. tgiro

    I think you'd better shut this one down --

     

     

  8. tgiro
    Yeah - what he said
  9. tgiro
    I just lay the original pattern over the copy, if it lines up I'm happy. The Brother printer works very well for this.
  10. tgiro
    I resolved this years ago by moving to a wide format (11X17") printer. I've been using the Brother printers. One thing I have learned about some of the professional copy shops - Kinko, UPS Store, Office Max/Depot, etc -- Their copiers sometimes stretch the patterns. Specially the ones with the Asian names on the copier. I found out about this when I was working far a large printing company and the Composition artists were going nuts trying to get good graphics copies for testing. We found that the Brother MFC-J69##DW series gave us the best copies. Even though they are ink jets. When I do Intarsia, I need a copier that gives me an exact copy. I got an MFC-J6910DW in 2011 that finally gave up it's ghost last month. I got a new J6945DW to replace it and it came with a years supply of ink. I sometimes have to paste a couple of sheets together to get a complete pattern, but not very often.
  11. tgiro
    The thumb screws for the DW788, the Delta 40-694, Excalibur Ex-21/EX-16/EX-30 and the newer Excalibur step-children are all the same size. I would recommend upgrading to the Pegas clamps. They have them that fit the Delta and parts should be available for a long time.
  12. tgiro
    Go with the Pegas clamps. I used the OEM EX clamps and I'm guilty of over tightening the bottom clamp, so I was replacing it every year. SInce I've upgraded to the Pedas clamps, I've had no problems.
  13. tgiro
    The grinder is an 8-inch Rikon slow speed. They come up at Woodcraft, on sale, about once a year. I have used PC variable speed grinders, from Lowes, also. Although I think they are selling Delta now.
  14. tgiro
    Yep they have regular air valves, the same as a bicycle or car tire. I use the pneumatic drums on my Sand-Rite sander, but I, also, have a grinder with a flex drum and sanding mops on it. The picture shows the flex drum sander on the left and the pneumatic sander on the Sandrite, on the right .
  15. tgiro
    Now all you have to do is find a sanding sleeve that fits the pool noodle like the sleeve on the flex drum. They aren't glued to the drum. If you look closely, you'll see it's a pressure fit. Maybe you can give flex-drum some competition.
  16. tgiro
    Yeah - Ray is located out in Rockwall. He is in a little industrial park off of Mimms Rd. That's where I got my EX-21, when I was out visiting my oldest son in Garland in 2012.
  17. tgiro
    The current Excalibur saw is a re-engineered model that is made in China. People who have purchased it seem to be having issues with it. The manufacturer who made the old Excalibur saws, now turns out Excalibur-type step children under different brands. There is the King brand, mostly sold in Canada, but the US Woodcraft stores sell it. Jet tools, now sells an Excalibur type, but it has some differences. Ray Seymore, of SeyCo, has his own version of the Excalibur type saw, also with differences. The one that seems to have bubbled up in quality, and seems to keep all the old Excalibur features, is the Pegas. It looks to be the current leader of the Excalibur type lines.
  18. tgiro
    You still won't have any problem. Maple, Ash, and Mahogany are dense enough woods that they will work just fine. Your contrast colors will really pop, too.
  19. tgiro
    Irfanview ( a freebie) does it easily -- open the file with irfanview -> type H key (or click on the Image tab -> Horizontal Flip).
  20. tgiro
    I use an EX-21 so I'm probably biased towards the Pegas. I have used a Hegner a couple of times and it is really different from the EX-21 and the Pegas. Based on that I would say stay with Hegner. Having said that --- Woodcraft is selling the Pegas 21" saw for $750. The Hegner Mutimax V-22 goes for $1645 from Advanced Machinery - twice as much as the Pegas. Both are excellent machines for the price. But for you the Pegas would have a learning curve to it.
  21. tgiro
    Did you test it for true square? Set it to 90 degrees - draw a line across a small board. Then put the square on the opposite edge and see if it lines up perfectly with the line.
  22. tgiro
    The biggest con of the Guinevere is the speed. You can get used to it, but it takes practice - specially when sanding small pieces. The Guinevere chucks are limited in size - I think the largest is 3/8". The Foredom Bench Lathe, that Melanie is refering to, has a chuck limitation of 1/4". Right now, Woodcraft has the Rikon slow speed 8-inch grinder on sale. That is what I'm using. I have a Flex-drum sander on one shaft and a chuck on the other shaft for sanding mops and smaller drums. I got my chuck here - https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/dr_chuck.htm Although, you can, also, find them at McMaster Carr or Grainger. It handles my large mops quite nicely and it works at a speed that is easy to use. I make my own mops and use the 1/2" arbors from Kingspor to mount them.
  23. tgiro
    Hey Bill - welcome back! The expert of the world on Excalibur saws of that vintage is Ray Seymore. Don't bother with the SeyCo website. -call them and ask to talk with Ray. He will probably be able to tell you exactly what you need in a very short time. He doesn't sell them any more, but they do support them. Give Ray a call - he's good folks.
  24. tgiro
    I've seen the King saw at woodcraft and it has the same OEM clamps as the Excaliburs. The bottom clamp is made of cast aluminum. Over-tightening will literally spread the clamp, making it so the thumb and set screws won't tighten on the blade correctly. I was/am a constant violator of this and, always, kept a spare bottom clamp on hand to swap out when the problem arose. I second the recommendations to swap the OEM clamps out for the Pegas clamps. The Pegas clamps are made from a much stronger aluminum alloy and I have not had the problem since I switched. Denny Knappen, currently has the Pegas clamps on sale.
  25. tgiro
    Tammi, what kind of saw are you using? As Ray said, you could damage your clamps by over tightening. If you are using an Excalibur, you can, literally, spread the bottom clamp by over tightening. You'll be blowing $35 on a new bottom clamp set. Been there - done that.
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