tgiro

Might be something here to make a pattern from -- https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&hl=en&tbm=isch&q=tall+ship+sillouette

OK -- Using up some strips of Yellow Heart and Purple Heart -- scroll saw to cut the rings and lathe to shape them.

The flair works OK. But - I'm thinking of cutting it back about 1/4-5/16". I think it would work better then. If your 3/4" nozzles are working good, I wouldn't waste money on the flair.

Referencing my response in Rocky's Vacuum thread -- I wanted to get the scroll saw and the drill press off of the dust collector. Primarily, because the DC goes into labor with the little port openings on the drill press and scrollsaw. The drill press port is only 2"x3/4" and my scrollsaw ports are only 2"x1/4". I usually opened one of the other 2-1/2" ports just so the DC wasn't working so hard. Secondly - I wanted a vac that turned on when I pushed the foot pedal for the tool. When I used the DC, it was on all the time. I don't think I'm in danger of burning up the motor, but it costs in electricity. I looked a a lot of vacs before deciding on the Fein and I finally picked it because a local guy, who is starting up a tool shop was selling them. I was impressed by the low noise level, but their brag about 62db is more like 72db on my meter app. I'm usually wearing my earbuds with music playing anyway, so not a problem. My senior head banging moment came when I got it home and found the Fein 1-1/4" hose and all my fittings are for 2-1/2". After a call to the dealer and some shopping around, I found that there are no DC type connectors and fittings for the vac. I did read that a 2-1/2" hose connector would fit in the Fein and it almost did. But not good enough for real use without damaging the Fein. I remembered Home Depot had some tool adapters for 2-1/2" vacuum hoses. A trip there yesterday found the perfect fit. They have a stepped adapter which can be trimmed so the Fein hose fit one end and the other fits 2-1/2". I was able to tuck it into a corner, out of the way, but I don't have to move three other tools to empty it.

I have a dust collection system and an air filtrator running and I still use a dust mask. I tried the different respirators out there and my weird shaped face doesn't fit any of them. I was almost tempted to go buy an old M17 CBR mask from the army/navy store. I finally settled on using the earloop medical paper masks that I get from Amazon. They don't seal effectively so I cover that with a Dust-be-Gone mask. That combination works very well. I have COPD, so dust maintenance is an important factor for me. I have some friends who use the paper masks only and they work well for them. You should use some kind of mask. With all my dust collection and air filtration, I still get flying dust. Specially if you get into intarsia. Find what works for you and use it.

When I was taking one of Judy's classes I asked her about her blades. She did quite a bit of research before she settled on the blades she uses and sells. You have to remember that Judy was looking for good blades for intarsia projects, not fretwork. To be fair - I don;t believe FD blades and Pegas blades were on the market when Judy started selling blades. I, also, like the FD and Pegas blades, but I have used Judy's blades and they work just fine.

That's the same type of jig that I use on my blades. I have to mention that I use single edged high-speed steel blades - not the double edged stainless steel. I have an old DW733 planer. The only caveat to that jig is to use a true flat surface to mount your sandpaper. I have a 2" thick marble plate that I use when I meed true flat. I use sandpaper grit down to 1000 when sharpening blades. They're razor sharp when I'm finished. TBH; I haven't used the planer much since I got my SuperMax drum sander.

Don't know where you're at in Jersey, but here's a pretty good deal -- https://longisland.craigslist.org/tls/d/melville-excalibur-scroll-saw/6998519463.html

Working on a small vac for my scroll saw and drill press now. I was flipping coins between the Fein and the Festool. I've kind of settled on the Fein because of a local dealer. I have a 1-1/2 horse Delta Dust Collector system running, but it labors when I have the small 3/4" scrollsaw ports open. I usually open another 2" port somewhere is the system so it doesn't have to work so hard. But I can sit on the scroll saw all day, and that's again, a lot of work for a DC.Like Paul said, they are supposed to be used short term. The Fein will be dedicated to the scrollsaw and the drill press. I already have another old craftsman Vac for general use, but that thing sounds like an F-15 running in my small basement shop.

You might find something you can work up here -- https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&hl=en&tbm=isch&q=monster+truck+coloring+pages

The SSWC review of the Seyco saw showed that it would tilt to only 30°. The Pegas, Jet, and King saws tilt all the way to 45°. Not sure why the Seyco has this limitation. For some of my bowls, I need the 45 degree tilt.

Looks like a misplaced decimal point to me. That is a Chinese web site according to the contact info at the bottom of the page. I found it interesting that the bulk of the site advertises women's clothes. If you did order two, you'd get free shipping

I used FD blades exclusively before migrating to the Pegas blades. I still have dozens of them, but haven't bought any since Mike died. The FD's do have a slight right hand drift to them. When I'm running top speed, I can be feeding a board about 30° of true. I like the Pegas MG blades, but they are much more aggressive than standard polar or skip-tooth blades. The FD-UR blades come close and I still like those. I forget who bought out Mike's business when he finally retired. I know Mike's Workshop website still exists. I used to stop by and see him on my trips out to the Black Hills (SD).

Yep - what Paul said.

Are you gluing it just to cut it or are you laminating it permanently to the BB? If you are laminating it permanently, then contact cement is the best way to go. I've never tried spray glue for lamination. Something you would have to test. If you are gluing it to the BB just to cut it and then peel it off, be aware that some veneers are kind of chippy and I think you'll get a lot of breakage when you try to peel it. Like Paul, said, you may have to soak it in mineral spirits to get it to come off. I know one guy who cuts book markers out of veneer. He sandwiches pieces of veneer between two pieces of BB and tapes them tight. Then glues the pattern to the BB and stack cuts the whole thing. The veneer pieces come out clean with no fuzzies or chipped edges.

Firstly - there are 20 articles - 10 are patterns and 7 are projects. Only two of them are intarsia projects. The rest being fretwork, toys, and an automation project. So, I'm not sure I'd say intarsia is taking over the magazine. I agree with Melanie. I don't do every project in the magazine and I am a dedicated intarsia crafter. But I always find ideas and neat gadgets or tricks I can use. Many of us have found a niche in the scrollsaw media and have dedicated ourselves to becoming very proficient in that niche. I do intarsia, Scott does the animal puzzles, Jim does inlays, some folks do only some form of fretwork. A magazine will never have everything we are dedicated to. A magazine must try to touch all aspects of the crafts. SSWC is the only surviving American scroll saw magazine. Fox Chapel has a good woodcraft book and magazine publishing business going. Their authors, contributors and artists are top of the line. I doubt that they will be folding anytime in the near future.

Running an EX-21 with the Pegas clamps. I've used plenty of the MG #3 blades with no issue. What seems to be the problem. Note - I do intarsia, so I'm not locking and unlocking one end the blade for a bunch of interior cuts like fret work folks do.

For those of you who use Dust Collectors, do you use canister filters or bag filters? I'm using an old Delta 50-760 1.5 horse dust collector in my shop. The machine sits in a shed, outside of my shop, so I'm not bothered by noise or worried about effectiveness of the filter bag. I have a Thien Baffle 1st stage in front of the DC which catches 95+% of the sawdust leaving only the powdery dust to get to the filter bag. I tried a canister filter for awhile, but found I had to clean it (blow it out with the air compressor) about every two months. When that canister clogged my vacuum would drop around 50%. I can leave a bag on there for 4 - 5 months. I think the bags are good for filtering down to 5 microns. Not sure what the canisters filtered. The bags are cheaper than the canisters. I get them at Home Depot for around $50 per bag. The canisters ran $150 - $200. I have wound up with three bags. By swapping them out I have to clean the bags once every 13 - 16 months.

I can accomplish the same thing on my 14" bandsaw, with a 1/8" blade and the carter guide.

I buy that stuff by the 4' x 8' sheets. Lowes calls it Melamine, but I've always thought of it as masonite. I use the 1/8th inch stuff to back most of my small intarsia projects. Although it can be somewhat brittle and break easily behind thin pieces. When I have a large project, I'll use contact cement to laminate 1/8th" BB and 1/8th inch masonite to make a 1/4" inch board. That becomes a super strong back board.

I'm going to come from a whole different angle. While attending Judy Gale Roberts' classes, she introduced me to the Xyron machine -- https://www.amazon.com/Xyron-608931028515-624632-Creative-Original/dp/B00X3EZ5VO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=xyron&qid=1559086197&s=gateway&sr=8-3 These things are normally used by scrapbookers. You feed your pattern through it and it will put adhesive on the back of the paper. You can get permanent adhesive, which requires mineral spirits to get off, or you can get re-positional adhesive which peels off easily. I found that my blade cuts much smoother through wood with Xyron prepared paper than with other adhesives. I've been using it since I too Judy's class and have never looked back.

That's a pretty neat trick. And you still have the holes in the saw for tubes if you want. Good idea!

According to their website -- " GOOD NEWS SAW Members We are not closing we are going through a audit at the moment and we are trying to get the SAW treasury right before we continue. WE ARE NOT CLOSED but we are trying to get the financials in order for any future BOD. "

Great video Kevin - thanks for sharing. I use an Orange oil/beeswax mix, but I buy it.

I would question their choice of "Top 5 Scrolls Saws" -- 1. Dewalt DW788 2. WEN 3920 3. Dremel MS20-01 4. Shop Fox W1713 5. Delta Power Tools 40-694 I think I would only rate the DW-788 in a "Top Choice" list. There was no mention of the Excaliburs, Jets, Hawks, or Hegners. Maybe they were going by the most sold saws.