Xray

Thanks for the tips, might give the holder replacement a try, certainly a bit pricey.

My ex [probably nearly 8 years old] is having problems, blades are a nightmare to insert, they just don't want to take hold and stay. Have tried brand new inserts [lower and upper both sides], no joy. I seem to remember some kind of tune up/diagnostic web page [maybe Seyco], anyone know ? Don't want to give up on my ex as it still runs strong, can't tell you how frustrating it is to have a simple task like inserting a blade turn into a time consuming chore.

Poplar is a fairly soft wood, so you might get away with 1.5. I've always used screws to hold them together [drilling a pilot hole first, to avoid cracks], brad nails/staples work well too, if so equipped.

I'm from MI as well, and also have a 16" Excalibur. I been thinking about trying a craft show as well, though looking through some of the prices they want for a table setup, I don't think most of them would be viable. They have some craft show every weekend in Ann Arbor, tables are only $15 so I may give that a shot. Lots of artsy types out that way, and only about 30 miles or so away from me. http://www.michigancraftshows.com/Michi ... 202012.htm

Nothing wrong with Ryobi, any saw beats no saw. Hands on practice is the best way to learn - Especially since scroll saws are one of the very few power tools where its almost impossible to injure yourself. MDF is very hard on blades, plus the fine dust is toxic. Pine or plywood would be better to practice on.

Blade tips getting kinked is hard to avoid, and will happen with any machine. You can reduce the problem by trying not to over tighten. I keep a little pair of snips next to my saw, when they can't be straightened out, snip em off.

Hands on is the best way to learn. Take some scrap wood and start cutting simple shape like letters, stars, circles ect. .25 [1/4 ] wood is probably the best to start. Too thick or too thin both take more technique. You can do it freehand, but better yet, make patterns. That way you'll have lines to follow, and get an idea of how much stress the blade can take. Beginners are under the understandable impression that you must be very careful and delicate, or else you'll snap the blade. This is true to a degree, but the blades can take alot more stress than you would imagine. Cut a square, for instance, which obviously has 90 degree turns. Making these turns will give you confidence, and make you better aware of the limitations of the machine. Don't worry much about breaking blades, by the way. This will happen eventually no matter what. There is no practical damage you can do to the machine itself. Very little way you can hurt yourself either, so any damage will be to the blades and/or wood, which are both expendable.

Very unique, maybe you should try a custom clock with a slice.

Glad you are still at it Kev. I also use the trick of using worn blades and bits to get a custom burned look, check out some of the things I have been doing on a CNC recently. viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5769&start=30 You can't download anything at a library ?

"The Eagle Globe and Anchor is the exclusive property of the United States Marine Corps. Permission to use it for commercial retail and advertising (free or paid) is required. The use of Marine Corps trademarks for commercial purposes, including reproduction on merchandise, is expressly prohibited unless the producer completes a license agreement with the Marine Corps. Use is governed by the terms of the agreement. " "Hobbyist License Agreement - No application required. Hobbyist License Agreements must be hand made (no manufacturers), less than $5k in company sales annually, direct sales only (no retail sales), products must be hand made or repurposed using licensed materials (Don't aid infringement), no hang tags required, no product liability insurance required, agreement is non-negotiable." Hobbyists licenses to hand produce USMC items [that fall within their guidelines] are $25 yearly. I tend to agree with this policy, which aims to stop the production of USMC panties, socks ect. http://www.marines.mil/unit/divpa/tmlo/Pages/apply.aspx From what I gather, if you make USMC items for non commercial/retail purposes, that is not regulated. So technically, you could make something then keep it, or give it away ,,, But if you make a single $ on it, you must be licensed.

Thin woods can be difficult to get. You can find them online at places such as ebay and crafts forums. I have used common plywood for many things. Sometimes I stain, sometimes I paint it. Depends on what it is ... Something special, you'd want a nice chunk of wood with attractive grain. Sanding usually is not much of a chore. Common problems are tearout on the reverse, and yes reverse blades do help with that. I usually cut through the chase and just use a blowtorch to burn them off. Doesn't take much heat to send those fuzzies up in smoke ,,,, And often, if you desire, you can overburn them for a nice looking burnt affect to the wood. I personally have always shied away from using any type of veneer. The visible core around the edge is enough to ruin it for me .... But others may like it. Its cheap enough so it wouldn't hurt to experiment and see if it suits your purposes. Any sander you can get will come in handy, and the more tools you have, the better. But since you are used to hand work, you really don't need much beyond sandpaper to get the job done. Dremel tool is probably about the handiest single tool to have. With it, and a variety of attachments, you can drill tiny holes, sand large areas of edge, and smooth hard to reach places.

Custard lol, I was expecting the Pillsbury dough boy or something. Nice work, though it may have caused Custer to roll over.

I cut 1/8 all the time with very few problems. Not even sure what kind of blade I use, I tend to keep the speed high.

Wouldn't care to soak wood myself, I try to keep it dry. I also use painters tape ,,, If you peel carefully and with a little thought, nothing breaks off. If you just let er rip without thinking, then yeah you are apt to break pieces off. Often the tape will come off in 1 piece, leaving a sticky copy of what I just made, and I usually stick those on a window or work bench or something - Its like spawning a free vinyl cutout. But other times, you are better off taking it off in sections, to avoid fracturing fragile sections.

Can we start calling you homey now ?