RangerJay

If you live in an area with genuine "cold" in winter then you want to make sure your heating source can circulate to the entire shop - nothing worse than working on a cold concrete floor that never warms up in the middle of winter. In both my shops I've used a ceiling mount furnace - wouldn't use anything else. First shop was propane - expensive - shop I'm in now is natural gas - no where near as much to operate.

I've recently moved and configured my shop to a more confined space - it is now a 1 1/2 bay garage that is shared with a treadmill, exercise bike, lawn tractor w/snowblower and a myriad of garden tools, ladders and other "stuff" - the things that I think became important in the layout (and worked out to be good) were: 1) put my main workbench on the floor away from the walls (tends to keep it clean - it was previously on the wall meaning that it became a "storage" location for other "stuff"), 2) I worked hard at placing equipment so that it would not need to be moved for longer pieces - those pieces that needed to be chopped, planed or resawn - in the end I was really pleased with how this effort turned out - my long pieces were able to be accommodated by: a) locating my chop saw along the wall and keeping the rest of the wall clear to allow for longer pieces. b) locating my band saw so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the outside door c) raising my planer so that long pieces were able to float over my bench. d) locating my jointer so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the outside door e) locating my table saw so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the overhead garage door. These placements were a pretty big deal - in my old shop - (although I loved it) - dealing with long pieces was a nightmare - always meant moving multiple pieces of heavy equipment - then moving it all back - basically a pain in the ***. Finally - if you're dealing with cold weather don't just think of heating - think also of insulation - it is not a big deal to glue styrofoam sheet insulation to the inside of the blocks - even 1" of foam will make a huge improvement in your comfort. Also think of putting your main workstation away from the wall so cold spilling down the wall does not end up on your feet - and finally - at this same workstation - place a small stool to keep your feet off of the concrete floor. Good luck - show us pictures of what you do. Jay

Unless you are making a whack of clocks there are much cheaper (i.e. way more cost efficient) alternatives to Forstner bits - none of the clocks I have ever made is a production item - meaning I use hole saws very comfortably - and if I'm only making one clock I will likely use the scroll saw. Jay

At least in my very humble opinion there is a massive chasm here between the "hobby" and the "business" ... The "hobby" can get away with a lot ..... making one or a very limited number of pieces for an annual craft show is one thing .... The "business: is another thing entirely ..... advertising pieces for sale .... or copying the images of others to order ..... that have everything to do with furthering your business put you in very dicey territory - you are copying an image to further your own ends ..... period ..... and playing with the image to approximate - but not duplicate - an original likeness does not make it "right" ..... Nope - I am definitely not a lawyer ..... just have a sense of my own values about right and wrong ..... and not saying I got it right ..... Thanks, Jay

A few years back I made some key-hooks from a board that I had trouble identifying - after some research it turned out to be Sassafras - if I am remembering right it was very soft to cut (left fuzzies on the edges), had a bit of a natural greenish colour, was noticeably fragrant and looked like Oak when stained - it was fine in the end product - but I didn't feel it was different enough to seek it out in the future for any kind of unique or exceptional look. Jay

The "ping" method or the "1/8 inch" method are both fine for folks that are new to the hobby - or for those who are occasional scrollers - but if one really adopt the hobby then after a while you just "know" - the knowledge of "experience-gained-over-time" will do you for the rest of your life - so - having said that I'm thinking a device that definitively tells you the tightness of the blade is probably helpful for those getting into the hobby - but if they stick with it - they will soon develop their own sense of what is the correct tension - and the "tension-measurement-device" is very likely to be posted on Kijiji ...... Jay

If I am reading your concern right you want to stop the pieces from sliding once you apply clamping pressure. If this is your major issue I will use one of three methods: 1. tack in a series of small brads on a "married" section of one of the pieces and then cut them off with a pair of snips so they project slightly - press the alternate piece onto the "bradded" piece in the position you want it - make sure you engage the brad fully and it has created a "pilot" hole in the alternate piece - separate the pieces - apply your glue - put the pieces back together and apply your clamps - your pieces will not move. 2. apply a series of dabs of wood glue - then - in between - apply a series of dabs of super glue - press your pieces together - and once the super glue is holding - apply your clamps so the wood glue can do its work. 3. if your pieces allow the positioning of a "fence"/"jig" that will keep them together during the clamping then place the fence/jig - line up your glued pieces - and clamp. Hope I understood your issue correctly - and that these thoughts make some sense - and help. Thanks, Jay

In my own experience if you are obsessive about tweeking and fine tuning a quality saw to minimize vibration you will get a reasonably satisfactory result at most speeds - but will still get some level of vibration outside the "sweet" spot - to get to the next level - (as close to 100% vibration free as possible) - depends on the mounting. My Excalibur has been mounted on three benches - the latest is a massive wooden bench (not so much in size but definitely in weight) - it is a literal brute of a thing to have to move .... I can tell you the saw loves it - runs smooth as silk - no genuine vibration at all - not sure it would pass the nickel test - (also have it mounted on an angle) - but have to admit that since mounting on this bench it is a joy to run at any speed. Jay

Wow - 4000 sales with only 2 folks indicating some kind of problem? That is about as good a track record as you can get! Impressive! Would a short You Tube video help solve the issue? - include the link to the video with your instructions.

I don't, by any means, consider myself an expert on the range of Scrollsaws that are available - I've owned only two - a Craftsman and an Excalibur - but the only real shortfall that I think would be great to improve is to design a saw with an easily adjustable table angle from front to back - I have some miserable back issues and it really helps to be able to "change things up" on a regular basis - in other words - what works now may be painful in an hour - and what works today may not work tomorrow ..... . I don't think an adjustment of this kind is a big deal - and - at least for me - it would be well used. Thanks, Jay

I'm with Hermit on this one - got rid of our landline years ago and telemarketers/scam folks virtually eliminated - then got a voice mail service that screens out robo calls - now no "unfriendly" calls at all. Jay

You've obviously been asked this question before - and your response is about as clear as it gets!!! ....... Whenever I've been asked that same question my own response is: "the instant you start to push - the question is answered ....." Thanks, Jay

Looks to me like the heat has stoked your creative juices!! - lots of good stuff here!! Jay

It's funny - I've made a lot of "heritage" clock reproductions and have always sought out (ludicrously expensive) mechanical movements - I've had to make a couple clocks where I haven't been able to find a mechanical movement and have felt very uncomfortable putting a $10 quartz movement in a clock that has taken literally months to make - just doesn't compute .... ..... but I'm off topic ...... In addition to the typical internet searches I think I would start picking up the phone to get some advice from a range of: - clock manufacturers - clock repair facilities - movement manufacturers - navy veterans forums - navy veterans office (get them working for you) - navy other?? This is a neat project - sure hope you are successful - and would be really interested in knowing what you find. Jay

There is not a heck of a lot I can add to the advice and opinions already given - but I might add that you would find it helpful to take a sacrificial chunk of plywood - thickness your choice - and simply cut the same pattern with different blades - then make your assessment. I am one of those that is a big fan of spiral blades - but recognize that flat blades have an important place that cannot be duplicated by a spiral blade .... Jay

My go-to woods for most projects are walnut and oak - choice is usually walnut as the primary choice with oak as the trim - but vice versa on some - but having said that I spend a serious lot of extra time on those special one-of-a-kind projects trying to make sure that the "WOW" factor is well represented by the wood choice - this inevitability means considering pretty much the entire range of woods that might be available at my local hardwood supplier - one thing that I have really noted is that it becomes a lot cheaper to use your go-to woods for the lions share of all projects - but then add some accent trim on special project from an alternative wood species - specifically;y chosen to take the whole work to another level - never been skunked by this approach. On occasion I have done a project that seems to demand a really unique approach to the kind of wood that is best - on these kind of projects I spend a lot of time and research on the wood choice - inevitably the choice is also a one-of-a-kind solution. Should also mention that those projects where an historical kind of "heritage" grain is really important then consider elm - it is without question my favourite wood for these kinds of projects. Hope this response makes sense - (sounded kind of confusing when I re-read it) - think what I am saying is gravitate to some basic and inexpensive choices for most of your work - then spend a lot of time picking what you will use for those one-off pieces that you want to really generate a WOW factor ..... Jay

A stunning piece of work ..... Jay

Once a blade is done I fold and break it in half - then save it to a cup sized container - after that it may find use most often as a delicate glue applicator for fretwork projects that need it - or- sometimes - much less often - as a manual "cleaner" where glue or finishing has interfered with the fretwork - or ..... (really) ..... (but not a lot) ..... (kind of embarassing) - I have found myself using them as a serious toothpick ..... (3/0 is the most effective ......) Jay

I have never really had any difficulty planing down to 1/4 inch - but do make an effort to try to minimize time, waste and also tear-out. If I can I will resaw the board to 3/8 or a little more (no less) - it's important to have confidence that your bandsaw is cutting true - (kinda frustrating to find one side of the resawn board at 3/8 inch - and the other at 1/4 with a bunch of bandsaw blade marks to plane out .....). For setting the first cutting depth I simply crank the deck down to point the rollers grab the wood - and in my case - then start planing 1/2 turn of the deck wheel at a time till I engage the wood - after that I will maintain 1/2 turn of the deck wheel till I am starting to approach 1/4 inch thickness then change to 1/4 turn of the deck wheel and finally 1/8 turn of the deck wheel till the 1/4 inch thickness is reached. Seems to work for me - never had trouble and I do it all the time. Should also mention that I do plane down to 1/8 thickness - so far without issues - but with a less confidence and a lot more caution - (I'm pretty sure somewhere in your planer manual you will find a phrase that says "do not plane anything below 1/4") ...... having said that I follow the same technique as above but will only use boards that are absolutely clear of knots/wild grain and my increments of changing the deck height wheel are smaller .... so far so good ..... Hope this makes sense - and is helpful. Jay

That is a great looking project - I can understand why you are getting orders - and I really don't see anything wrong with your choice of woods - makes sense to mix them up a bit if you are going to do a bunch - but absolutely nothing wrong with what you've already done. Jay

My method of dealing with scrap wood is very simple and effective - but a little brutal ..... once the scrap wood tote is overflowing and intruding into the shop then it's time for a campfire ..... Having said that it's worth pointing out that one of the big benefits of scroll sawing is that not a lot of genuine scrap wood is generated - in fact - it is a hobby that uses up "scrap" wood from other projects. When I do generate "surplus" wood that I feel can logically find a place in a future project - then that "fresh inventory" is stored in a shelving unit waiting for that project to come along ...... Jay

Isn't it funny how we are always our own worst critic - and in this piece it doesn't look to me like there is anything to even begin to criticize - lots of precision work where the tiniest mistake would show - and - as far as I could see - there is nothing showing but great work - (I looked hard .....). A great looking piece really well done. Jay

.... and here I always thought you were a dead ringer for 007 ...... nicely done! Jay

A beautiful piece of work. Jay

I have used a fairly basic branding iron that is heated by a torch for close to 20 years - still going strong - but if the piece is too small for the branding iron then I just initial it with a Sharpie - am thinking of getting a smaller, electric, custom branding iron with just my initials. Jay