tomsteve
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Everything posted by tomsteve
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glad i came back before ordering. thanks, jerry! i can do that!
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DOH!!!! found em on there!
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first time posting any of the many things kicked out this summer. my son retired from the army recently.he asked me to build a flag display case for his retirement flag, i saw this pattern and thought it would go nice above the case. the shelf is a piece of walnut thats been in my shop for some time(ive got a small stash of live edge im waiting for ideas for) and ive been thinkin of something to build out of it for a few months. then my brother visited and saw it. first idea he had! i said," wow, ive been thinkin about it for a long time. i shoulda asked ya months ago!! so, what ideas do ya have for the rest of these live edge slabs?" he replied," let me take em home and think on it!"
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having my ex for almost a year now, i think ive admitted some round knurled blade clamps would be nice to have. are they available somewhere? didnt see them on the seyco website, unless i wasnt lookin in the right place.
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cant tell how long i spent walkin across my shop to drill holes or holes i missed before i realized i could put my drill press right next to my scrollsaw. i can relate to the downtime. i hadnt used spirals on a portrait in quite sometime until about 3 weeks ago. it was like learning it for the 1st time.
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i himmed and hawwed on the 16 or 21. figured tnat in tne years ivd scrolled did i very very rarely need the throat capacity of the 788. then ended up with an ex16 and footswitch under the christmas tree last year. ive done quite a bit of scrolling with it and have been very happy witn it and dont miss the added throat depth.and tne footswitch.... its awesome!!!
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I'd suggest seeing if you can upsize the dust ports on your tools.
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I was quite surprised at the difference after I started waxing the surfaces of all my machinery. Table saw, Jointer, planer, scrollsaw table.I didn't have any problems either and main reason was to help keep rust at bay... It made the lumber slide pretty nice. And some day I might wax my car even!
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I had a craftsman with a plastic throat plate that drove me crazy until I took a piece of 1/8" plywood, traced the table of the saw on it, cut it out , put a 1/4" hole in it for the blade and glued it to the table. Roughed up the surface of the table with 100 grit and clamped the plywood real good until it dried and it worked excellent. No more problems with fragile cuts.
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If there's no internal cuts or sharp turns a bandsaw might work pretty good.
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Check pawnshops in your area,too, for one.
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Seems this http://www.mikesscrollsawpatterns.com/pattern.asp?id=181 Is the same as what he's selling as this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flaming-Horse-Head-Airbrush-Stencil-Template-/150824033286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231dd01c06 Also saw a couple I think are in the pattern library here.
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If you want the most durable, longest,lasting finish,,go with an exterior acrylic latex. Ie- clear paint Sherwin A-100 base( untinted) is,pretty durable. There's some write ups on why an acrylic latex is,a better choice over polys and even varnishes for exterior applications as you're looking at.
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I was thinking bulls fans must be weird to want DAN DW788 Scrolled out.
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I've seen Eddie painted many different ways but never woulda thought of scrolling him. Great job!!!
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I'd go with just a clearcoat. You might be able to find a jobber( a place that sells auto paint) locally that can load a rattle can of the brand of clear they sell or use a rattle can clear they sell. Scuff the surface with 800 grit, clean. Normally a wax and grease remover is used but you could use 90% IPA to clean the surface. Clean it real good. Then a few coats and let dry thoroughly. Then wax it.
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The blower hose on the ex is called loc line. If you have a machine/ indrustrial supply store nearby! Something like production tool, you could take what ya got ther and they should be able to hook ya up with more. To tighten up a knuckle you can try moving their position. Or http://www.mrmsworkshop.com/uploads/1/8/1/8/18181809/air_hose_repair_information.pdf
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Welcome Lorenzo. Proper lighting is necessary when taking pictures of projects scrolled in clear acrylic.
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Sharp drill bits, higher rpms, and a solid piece of wood underneath to let the drill bit to keep drilling into helps me stay splinter free when drilling. And letting the drill bit do the work.
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Hhhmmmm... Does the " no pictures or it didn't happen" rule apply around here??
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Very ambitious and something I've wanted to do for some time. It looks like a lot of stack cutting can occur with it. Probably be wise for the wheel sides so all the stuff in between lines up nice. I'm thinkin this would be a good project thread for us to follow.
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On large projects with many cuts I'll drill only 10-20 holes at a time, cut those and drill 10-20 more. Seems to help me. Plus I have a light at table level together light under the workpiece to help. And then there's times where I still have to look at the hole from the top and decipher where it is on the backside.
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Google 1/16 brass. Quite a few online metal suppliers.
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Learn how to make patterns from pictures. Tune up on all tools and(once again) re arrange shop. Keep hands and fingers in tact in the shop Not bleed on projects when I do bleed.
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Thanks for the welcome,all. Yes, there was a lot of dust made on them 3 saws. Now that I have a very high quality saw, which I haven't had a chance yet to fire up, I'm,going to start thinking about the dome clock. Did the workshop clock a few years ago, said id never do another clock after that, but bought the plans some time ago for the dome clock and am loading up this weekend on lumber. So, I just might get kickin on it soon. Plus I have orders for other stuff but waiting on the lumber and time.
