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Frank Pellow

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Everything posted by Frank Pellow

  1. Frank Pellow
    Brian, why would Woodcraft carry a Seyco branded saw? I doubt that would be good for either Woodcraft or Seyco. More to the point, why would you want to purchase it from Woodcraft rather than Seyco? Oh yes, another thing Brian -we have already heard from Ray at Seyco and his answer is in a post in this thread.
  2. Frank Pellow
    Don (haweye10), I see no reason that Ray would say the saw would likely be a little bit cheaper if he did not believe that to be true. As to the reason that Ray would sell the ST-21 for a little less than the EX-21, perhaps he is being altruistic. More likely, he is setting such a price to make Seyco very competitive with other EX-21 clones and spin-offs.
  3. Frank Pellow
    Ray has responded to my request for a price. He says: "The price is not completed as yet but looking like it could be a little less than the Excalibur."
  4. Frank Pellow
    As another enthusiast of this hobby and, recently, a Seyco customer, I welcome this move on Seyco's part.
  5. Frank Pellow
    Don (Hawkeye10). Yes indeed, pay cash, but save the cash until you can pay enough that you don't get junk. Too many people nowadays think they need what they desire now and have forgotten how to save for it.
  6. Frank Pellow
    That's strange Kurt because the photos of the Excelsior 21 (model XL-21/100) and 16 (model XL-16) on the KMS Tools web site and that I referred to in a link earlier in this thread do look the same as the recent Excalibur saws.
  7. Frank Pellow
    OK, I checked and the equivalent of the EX 16 is being sold for $700 Canadian (or $525 US) at this site: https://www.kmstools.com/king-canada-excelsior-16-scroll-saw-123314 I don't know if they will ship to you and you might need to pay sales taxes. I still think you should save up and purchase the Jet.
  8. Frank Pellow
    If it were me starting right now I would buy a Jet (or maybe even a Hedgner). And, if necessary, I would save the money until I could purchase it. I've learned over the years that it NEVER pays to purchase an inferior tool. It will cost more in quality, frustration, and often money to buy such a tool.
  9. Frank Pellow
    I have a much larger volume of larger offcuts from my "real" woodworking. I'm getting better about keeping that wood under control. Using small (otherwise scrap) pieces for some scroll projects does help. My scroll saw in not in my woodworking shed with most of the other tools. It is in the basement and the scraps shown in the box are entirely those created by scroll sawing.
  10. Frank Pellow
    I appear to have given the wrong impression to some folks. I do not intend to recycle or to reuse the wood in this box. LIke Roly, I intend to use it when starting fires (in the wood stove in my woodworking shed)).
  11. Frank Pellow
    I started doing serious scroll sawing just about a year ago and it's amazing to me how many cut-off pieces I have accumulated in that time. My scrap box is just about ready to empty and I took a photo of it this morning. It's a big box and it was empty when I started a year ago. I also took a photo of the majority of broken blades and bits that I have "created" in the last 8 months.
  12. Frank Pellow
    I thank everyone who responding so quickly and with such good advise. I was able to follow some it right away by slowing everything down. Once having done that, I completed the job using the FD UR9 blades and breaking only one more of them. I'm quite happy with the end result (seen in the attached photo). In the short term, I won't be making any more of these boxes. But, longer term I will be making some and will avail myself of some of the blades you have recommended before doing so. Don, I will take you up on your offer to try the Polar #5 blade. Please bring one the next time that we plan to meet (by the way, I brought the block of Avodire that I am giving you to breakfast earlier this month but forgot to give it to you.)
  13. Frank Pellow
    That's certainly something that you can be proud of.
  14. Frank Pellow
    I'm sawing the sides of a box out of thick ash. It's 4 centimetres (a little more than 1.5 inches) thick. I find that I am breaking and/or bending and/or burning LOTS of blades. I've tied both Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse UR5 and Olson Double Reverse 9RG blades and neither has worked well. It's the Olson blade in the attached photos.
  15. Frank Pellow
    You have some really nice patterns there Alex. I expect that sometime within the next year, I will purchase one and give it a try.
  16. Frank Pellow
    Thanks for all the compliments folks Now it's time for me to admit to a mistake that I made when staining this. As you can see in the first attached photo, I originally put white stain on the background between the heads of the two middle penguins. I didn't notice that I had done this until seeing a photo of the piece. The wood being quite porous oak, the stain was not just on the surface. What to do? One of my many other hobbies is carving totem poles, bentwood boxes, etc. in the style of the North American north- west coast first nations, in particular the Haida. A vital tool in that craft is a very very sharp bent knife. It turned out to be quite easy to carve off a thin layer of stained wood without penetrating into the wood below the oak layer of the veneer and without encroaching on the surrounding region. In the second attached photo the carving is underway..
  17. Frank Pellow
    Ron, you may purchase the attachment at Rockler. Here is a link: http://www.rockler.com/date-attachment-for-branding-irons
  18. Frank Pellow
    This pattern is by Sue Mey. She did not mention staining it but I took it upon myself to do so. The Foreground is 5mm thick quarter-sawn white oak veneer. After cutting, I applied two coats of Saman water-based whitewash to the appropriate parts of the penguins, immediately wiping after application. Orange acrylic paint, cut to make it like a stain, was applied to the beaks. Then two coats of clear stain spray varnish were applied. The backer-board is 3mm thick Baltic birch plywood (thinly) painted flat black. The frame is a cheap plastic one that I recycled. The frame seems to suit the work and, although I prefer to make my own frames, I don't have a lot of time right now and it is always good to re-cycle stuff that is hanging around. I cut this using a Flying Dutchman New Spiral 2/0 blade and the important thing to note is the word 'a'. To my surprise, I did not break a single blade. In all my past projects that utilized spiral blades, I broke a LOT of them.
  19. Frank Pellow
    I purchased an attachment for my branding iron so that I can burn the year as well. The attachment is such that the numbers may be altered each year (using a primitive form of typesetting). Often, I not only brand my work, but I add other information, such as the name of the designer if the design is not mine. I'm attaching an example.
  20. Frank Pellow
    Kris thanks for the offer. Did you use GIMP to create your pattern?
  21. Frank Pellow
    Very good! You now have me wondering if I can learn enough about GIMP for me to be able to create a pattern for one of the Algoma Central Railway and/or Ontario Northland Railway trains of my youth.
  22. Frank Pellow
    Last card mailed: The attached photo shows the last of 34 cards being inserted into an envelope. I would not have started this project if I had known how time consuming it would be. The amount of scrolling involved was just about what I expected. But, I estimate that the scrolling time was only 25% of the total time. On the other hand, I have gotten enthusiastic feedback from folks who have already received their cards.
  23. Frank Pellow
    Painting, painting, painting ... It turns out that I am spending more time painting and assembling these things than I am scrolling. Oh well, that's how it goes.
  24. Frank Pellow
    It seems to have worked remotely because it now snowing here in Toronto as well. The snow started just after I looked at this thread for the first time. That's OK -I LIKE SNOW!
  25. Frank Pellow
    Into Production: Yesterday, I really got into “production†mode on these cards. The first part of this is, obviously, the stack cutting of the foreground pieces. I also needed to speed up the painting of the backer-boards. To this end, I created a couple of painting templates, one for the white areas and the other for the rest of the colours. I'm attaching a couple of photos of painting underway on backer-boards using templates.
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