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thought you might like a story that happened to me. Out Lions club has a small park open to the public. Every few years we paint the tables, pavillion. and shed. They had been doing it with brushes and it took a work crew 2 days to paint everything. So I bought the $19 paint spray gun at HF and brought my HF air compressor. We mixed the latex paint with water as the instructions said and went to town. I couldn't believe how far it sprayed or how fast I got coverage. I have most of the tables painted before noon. A buddy wanted to try painting and he painted the pavilion supports and ends in short order. His 18 yr old daughter wanted to try it, so he handed the spray gun to her. As he did so, I noticed the bottom of the screw on paint can was no longer dished in but dished out. Within a second or two the can cracked and spewed paint all over the girl. Medium blue latex. She looked like one of the Blue Men musical group. We shut the compressor down and one of the members, who works on and paints old cars said, how high did you set the pressure? Then he said, "I see by the puzzled looks that you did not reduce the pressure." The daughter was hosed off immediately and we got about 85% of it off her. Then she was driven home, in the back of Dad's truck where she got in the shower. The mother wasn't too happy over the blue residue in her egg shell white shower stall.

Definitely the painted. Please share your painting technique and I will share mine I make a lot of turned ornaments. and others cut out with a scroll saw and then hand carved and painted. I found that most paints cake up on plain wood. Besides that, water based paints can raise the grain and make the project look worse. So I take all my finished sanded pieces and coat them with wipe on polyurethane. It dries rather quickly. Then I use liquid water based acrylic paint. I thin a small amount of paint about 2 parts paint to one part water and paint that over the dried Wipe on Poly. It goes on very smooth and dries slightly translucent. I have also used water based latex paint with results that were good over the wipe on poly. I am lousy at mixing colors and so I prefer the acrylic because it comes in 100's of colors already. For my 3D round ornaments, I chuck them in a variable speed drill and spin them slowly while painting. It is much easier to paint stripes using the drill. going about 30 RPMs some of my painted old fashioned fishing gear ornaments:

Much of why I got involved in scroll saws is now done on lasers. I was considering making a German style schwibbogen (a lighted multi layer window arch.) And a local discount store had mass produced Chinese laser cut ones for less than $20, that were nearly identical to what I was planning to make. Even worse, it now appears that most of the ones imported from Germany are now laser cut. The ornaments I make are cut with a scroll saw out of .25 inch stock, but then carved by hand to 3D and painted. There are now machines that can duplicate even that, but not with the same differences from piece to piece that tell a customer, mine are indeed individually hand made. Another problem, is that many vendors are merely such. They are selling mass produced foreign stuff. Some laser items are local and crafted from the standpoint of the artist actually created the art and converted the item digitally to a computer code to laser produce. Many do not even do that. They buy the program for the art on line almost the same as scrollers buy patterns to reproduce. Except scrollers still need the skill to cut the patterns. Many laser vendors have merely purchased the codes and shove a piece of wood, leather etc under the laser and flip it on. Welcome to a new age. It is one of the reasons, why I think a person who demonstrates the craft at the show will be the one that sells more. There was a large outdoor craft show nearby that was shut down for lack of insurance. Probably 130 vendors normally While most vendors had large tents and tables, there was one crafts man that sat on a folding chair at a small table. He had a couple of pliers, a few hammers, a tiny anvil, a blow torch and a few other items in a small tackle box and a large roll of heavy copper wire. He made jewelry, right there on the spot. He had very little on display and he sold the items as he finished them. He had a line of people waiting to buy and pretty much whatever he made and most prices were $15 to $30 dollars. It took him about 8-10 minutes to make a piece. Little to no inventory, perhaps $70 worth of tools and a pair of strong hands to bend the copper. I'll bet he was making at least $150 an hour.

Here is one source: https://centurypast.org/read-magazines-online/

Copy right of some things is basically unenforceable. A silhouette of a snowman, or shark for instance. There a literally thousands of extremely similar silhouettes out there. No matter if you do your own free hand, some body somewhere will think it looks just like the one from such and such a supplier. A reasonable alternative, that I have been trying to follow is to copy or create my own patterns from old magazine artwork. I mean old, as in the copyright ran out. There are several archives containing such old magazines and they tell you right up front which are in public domain., I also have a file of my own old magazines and catalogs from the 1850's through 1940. If the magazine folded and no longer exists, it is extremely unlikely that anyone will care that you used a drawing or photo from a 75 yr old defunct magazine. Another source is old movies before 1940. Current copyright, for items published 1978 and after, is life of the author plus 70 years.. For items before that, there is a host of ridiculous and technical time periods. For instance, the movie, "It's A Wonderful Life," had the copyright expire back in the 1970's, but the copyright on the underlying story "The Greatest Gift" and the music lived on, so the movie itself was not protected, but the story and music still were. If you take an old picture from a 100 year old magazine and adapt your own pattern. The picture you adapted from is not protected, but the pattern you adapt from it, it protected to you as a current derivative work. Sort of bizarre. The "Lion Sleeps tonight" song is a more twisted copyright matter. It was adapted from a 175 yr old Zulu folk song. In 1939, Solomon Linda recorded the song and added the wailing heard in the 1949 Weavers and 1963 Token's version of the song. Disney used the song in the movie the Lion King. and was sued by the heirs of Solomon Linda for using, not the song, but his version of the song. Solomon Linda died in 1961, at which time the copyright he sold in 1939, reverted to his estate. His heirs collected over 10 million from Disney. So yes it is complicated. Just make sure you use a very old picture that has passed into the public domain.

I stand. In fact, I usually use a old small Craftsman portable scroll saw on top my table saw top. I don't cut many intricate fret projects. Mostly out lines. I like having the scroll saw table up about the bottom of my rib cage/elbow height. Most of my use is for small quick stuff. Rarely anything that takes more than 2 or 3 minutes per item. Standing just seems to be better. If I were to build or buy a stand, I would want something I could put my legs and feet under as I sat at the machine ( more like sitting at a desk) Most of the commercial stands do not make such provisions, although a few do have the table sticking out, just not far enough to suit me.

Had an early Brother laser printer, slow, but did everything. Fax included. It lasted through a lot of use, almost 17 yrs before I couldn't get toner cartridges any more, had the old cartridge refilled a couple times. I was always an HP loyal guy. My HP b&w laser all in ones did everything and more. But my 1217 HP tanked a couple months back. Mrs. bought a liquid cartridge copier, fax, scanner, does colors, does two sided copies, all kinds of fancy stuff, ok BUT, it doesn't reduce or enlarge Went back and talked to the Salesman, he said I am supposed to use computer for that. Never had to in all these years. Now I have to figure that out. I tried to look for one comparable to my now tanked all in one 1217, but can't find any for less than $300. The one that just tanked was $139.00 just six years ago. Now I have to figure out how to use the computer to reduce and enlarge. It was so much easier on the printer.

Was given a small envelope marked SE piercing saw blade 4/0 12 packs of 12, pinless and 5.25 inches long. Says made in India. The picture looks like a coping saw or jeweler's saw. They look like scroll saw blades. Anybody heard/know anything about them?

Used one many years ago when all I had was a bandsaw and a coping saw would not reach in to do the cut out. A t one time got an electric one. Jumped around far too much to cut a smooth line even with the work clamped down.

Just an update. My first attempt with a ribbed molusk shell turned out terrible. Where the shell was ribbed thick, it was prone to chip. Where it was ribbed thin it sort of went ok. I attempted a piece of oyster shell, but it was far too brittle and flakey and disintegrated along the cut. Gonna try a piece of plain Quahog clam shell next.

Yeah, thought about that and remembered the old delta scroll saw I paid $2 for at a yard sale. It still works.

I have an idea for cutting a clam/mollusk shell to look like a sail boat. Does any one have any experience trying to cut shell? what blades? slow or fast? any suggestions?,

They sure tightened things up in the last few years. I worked out a deal for a guy that sold Leather Redskins jackets. Giant logo on back. He ordered from China and sold a few thousand at $50 a piece. over 4 years and had to give it up when he was drained in a divorce. He sent the NFL something like $8.50 a piece per jacket sold.

Football teams very jealously protect their trademarks because they make a large amount licensing products with their logos. It isn't that hard to get a licensing agreement and pay for it.

I do more turning aND I found places to scrounge wood for dirt cheap or free. (Furniture factories, saw mills, commercial wood mills etc) what these on line outfits charge is obscene. For valentine's day, I scrolled a bunch of hearts from 3/4 poplar that I milled myself from 4x5 poplar cut offs from a pallet makers scrap pile. I painted them red, put them on lengths of dowel and presented Mrs with a bouquet of hearts. Wood was free.

I have been looking for a small drill press. Every one I looked at had a wobbly spindle. I was given a 100 yr old Companion by Sears. absolutely no wobble, but It has an odd thread, so I can not replace the old worn out chuck without ordering a chuck from Australia for $100. . 1/2 x 28, not the common 1/2 x 20. So for really fine drilling, I mount a pin vise in the drill press. Been drilling some really fine stuff that way. wire drills that I need magnifying glasses to see to mount in the pin vise.

After my shop burned, I picked up used tools to replace the ones I had. I found an old very heavy duty 10 in. Craftsman table saw at an auction. No one wanted it because it was 220 volt. I got it for $12.00. I got around to re-wiring the motor for 120 volt and the old blade was warped enough that the kerf was about 3 times as wide as the blade. I got a 110 tooth Freud blade and gagged at the cost, but it was so worth it. After three years, it still cuts smooth as glass. I cut almost entirely hard woods. I have mostly cut through 3.5 inch oak, a few months I was cutting sugar maple and recently tulip poplar and it still cuts as smooth as can be. I have been cutting turning blanks, which means both cross cuts and rip cuts. So three years of hobby use and the blade is great.

when I have trouble removing a label from a plastic bottle or glass jar, I find that if soaking over night doesn't do it, denatured alcohol or acetone usually does the trick. Might work on label glue as well. And for pete's sake, do not smoke while working with either DNA or Acetone.

I have been using the 2x4 inch mailer labels for years for small projects. They don't stick real well to some woods though. I can print a whole sheet or one at a time.

Thanks.

Harbor freight and a few others also have variable speed bench grinders with flexible shaft hook ups. I toyed with the idea of getting the little 3 inch grinder, mostly for the flexible shaft set up and variable speed. I asked my dentist about purchasing an old dental drill set up when they replace them. He just laughed and said, they bring far too much for a hobbyist to want. I thought that little pen type hand set with the offset angle head would be great. This might work though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Dental-Lab-MARATHON-35k-Rpm-Handpiece-Electric-Micro-motor-10-Drills-Burs-N3/201527992673?epid=25011006690&hash=item2eec012161:g:LqUAAOSwQFNbA9eN

Thanks Spirithorse. A sleigh is far more complicated than I had in mind. Just a vintage style sled like this http://www.clipartpanda.com/clipart_images/this-clip-art-of-a-sled-is-in-15366734

For the Christmas pyramid I am making, and also for figures for a music box, I want to cut out some items that can't be turned. I need a small child's sled. I would prefer an old style bent wood runner type instead of a flexible flyer type. So I found a side image with a google search. I scaled the picture down to 1 inch to fit the side of a piece of 1 inch Bass wood, I marked some of the important side view points on the edge of the top and now drew the top as best I could. Guess we will see tomorrow when I cut it. To really get the shape I am looking for, I would have to cut from three sides, but that might be a little ambitious for my skill level and such a small piece of wood. Which brings me to the Title, is anyone aware of any instructions or tutorial for designing a 3d pattern?

Burma Shave went out of business in the early 1960, but the rights were owned by American Safety Razor Company. They actually released a shaving set in 1997 under the name Burma Shave. American Safety razor was part of the Personna brand, Phillip Morris ended up with it and sold it recently to AccuTec blades. So just to find out, I wrote a nice email indicating that I was interested in reproducing some of the Burma Shave signs,. Do they own the rights to the Burma Shave name and trademark? And if so, under what terms would they give permission or license to reproduce the signs? We shall see.

I have got to learn the process for picture taking and converting to a design. I saw a scrolled shadow box type thing of a famous church. It was done so when the light behind it was turned on the lines and windows of the church really shined. There is a peculiarly shaped church nearby that is well known for it's "different" architecture I could probably sell a few dozen such illuminated scrolled pictures. Just throwing that idea out there for who ever is interested.