fordamir
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Everything posted by fordamir
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it seems to me its kinda a sign of progress. Table saws were at one time tilting blade and I believe I read somewhere it was more dangerous to use the tilting blade thus the evaloution of the tilting arbor. I seems to me, but I have never used a EX for more angle of cutting it would be easier with a tilting head JMO David
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She is amazing and uses a henger SINGLE speed saw!
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beautiful,beautiful,beautiful. I am not real fond of felines, but really like the expression . The frame corners are perfectly perfect. Great Job. Dave
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I have been using it for about 2 years. I am disappointed that lowes and home depot have stopped carring the sheets. When I use It I run the speed at 790 spm and a fairly high tension blade, I normallyuse a #3
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My Dad use to say " the sign of a true craftsman is a man who can coverup his mistakes".
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why don't you give him a call
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I agree there is a learning curve to every tool. Only the user can fund the sweet spot and little tricks for their partiular saw. The only problem is it takes a good deal of cutting time to really get the hang of saw. Change saw same thing all over again
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I have been using my Sakura 21" saw for over a year and love it. Service parts very quick from PScWood. Initially only bought a belt just recently got quick release. The problem now is the band saw market has accepted their Timber Wolf Blades . This is a small company and the blades have diverted their attention from the saws . That is how I initially got interested in their scroll saw. Also do Stained Glass and bought the Sakura for cutting stained Glass. I have fallen in love with saw and don't intend to cut glass until I find another for $100 to $125 like this one. would have no problem recommending it since thye have a good returnn policy, excellent warranty and free shipping. The big plus to me is availablity of parts .
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I purchased them from PSwood Machines cost around $15.00 also get my Band Saw blades from them
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need to replace the steel blade guides with cool blocks
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Great reply Bill. I usually take a project I am going to cut and study it for a while; it seems the more I study the clearer the plan of action becomes. I will sometimes place a small dot where I will start with magic marker. I am retired and like the rest of you don't RUSH to start the project, may even keep looking at it for a few days on and off till the plan of attack is crystal clear even to the point where I will have to place supporting tape on the bottom of the pattern for future support when cutting the next area. Yes I always start from the center and either cut left to right or right to left. After all, we are all creating an heirloom of projects that will probably be done in the future by CNC machines. AIN,T IT GREAT to be a future part of a lost art form! And yes--I still have made my share of MISTAKES!
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I have a sakura 21" and use slick 50 dry spray on the two barrels I have. The neat thing about is the act that it has teflon in it and this works its way into the crevices if the metal, Not messy a quite long lasting.
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I am wondering if the excentric could be very slightly loose.
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Lew- I hope your move goes well. Mine has been very slow/ Moved in mid December from the Chesnee about 20 miles to Spartanburg , SC At 75 its not as easy for my wife and I as it was when 50, Got house just about just about settled little more and we will be finished. However my shop is moved but a real mess. We were careful to get everything in the shop,but wouln"t you know it yesterday I found a box with my woodworking planes in the house! Guess I will have everything set after I get power to it and can get it settled. Good luck on getting yours settled. Dave
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Welcome from South Carolina. Hope you find the Village helpful and enjoyable.
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Lew= do as my wife says = I am passing her advice on to you since I have the hang up of prefection. I guess it is my German heritage- Don't say a word before and after you show your piece . Just say I'm really glad you like it. She says they'll never see the mistakes because they admire the piece as a Whole. works for me real well. PS The Tower is really a beautiful work.I love it and wish some day I could do that pattern
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Its interesting you brought this up. I thought I was the only one to use this stuff. My us is a little bit different though. I restore vintage hand planes and usually they are loaded with rust. To speed thing up I use it first to remove a lot of rust fast then go through the various grits of sand paper ending up with 320 grit. If I only knew how to download pics. you might be interested in seeing some before and after pics.
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I have both types on different saws. No preference. What I have done is mount them where I can access the switch with my knee to either hit the on off switch or leave off the dead man. Doesn't seem to bother my knee because it's located in just the right position where my knee is in very close proximity to switch and very comfortable. JMO
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3 in1 has no silicon in it which can affect the wood when applying a finish finishing. This is why all old hand plane users like me use it in their hand plane oilers. I wonder if this is the reason they suggest using it?
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I use olson blades get them from www.Pozaidesigns sells PGT for $36.50/gross. Like to do business with him portion of his profits go to cystic fibrosis. His grand son who I think is 19 has it
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I owned a equipment rental busine nd found a company named motion industries carried bearings for the commercial industry. We purchased a good many bearings fm them. The labor cost to replace the bearing can be significant the bearing cost is incidential. always tried to get t Timkien or swiss made bearings well worth the additional cost inthe long run. Found the equipment was repaired for the long run. JMHO
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hotshot your information provided is great ! Every time I see your work I am absolutely dumfounded. I question myself "how does he ever do that- what an artist". I have had the urge to try it but didn't know how. Downloaded your info and am going to study it. I see my problem might be when blade break the sakura saw arm flies up to protect the blade from hitting pattern or hand to prevent damage. Just remembered I have a 14" rbi that would probably work. Again thank you so much for info. David
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thank you !
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I HAVE USED A HARBOR FREIGHT ITEM NUMBER 63073 TANK TOP PROPANE HEATER FOR ABOUT THE LAST 5 YEARS IN MY 10' X 14' SHOP. IT HAS WORKED REAL WELL FOR ME, HOWEVER, I LIVE IN THE PIEDMONT AREA OF SOUTH CAROLINA AND IT PROBABLY DOESN'T GET AS COLD HERE A WHERE Y'ALL LIVE. I THINK IT WILL RUN ABOUT 10 HOURS ON A 20# CYLINDER OF PROPANE. i FILL MINE ABOUT EVERY TWO YEARS. USUALLY I TURN IT ON AND LET IT RUN TIL IT GETS GOOD AND HOT IN THERE THE TURN OFF FOR A WHILE AND WHEN IT GETS COOL TO WHERE I WANT TO WARM IT UP, CRANK IT UP AGAIN. DO WISH IT HAD A THERMOSTAT BUT FOR $39.95 LESS 20% THAT MIGHT BE ASKING RIGHT MUCH OF HARBOR FREIGHT. I AM VERY CAUTIOUS WITH IT HAVE A CO2 MONITER AND CRACK A WINDOW PER INSTRUCTIONS.
