Tramsey4

Forgive my ignorance. I'm techy and not so much mechanical savvy. Do these replace the knob or do they replace the assembly which includes the threaded bolt?

I believe this is kinda what others have on their scroll saws instead of a tension knob.

I own a Ryobi 16 inch SC165VS saw. It has a knob for tension, I would like a lever since it's faster to clamp/unclamp. Here are some stock pics of what I'm talking about.

Has anyone ever converted the twisting tension knob to a lever style that's on some other scroll saws? The inner cut process takes forever with loosening the blade with a hex tool, loosening the tension knob, etc. I have seen people replace their blade holder knob to a lever type so I was curious if there was the option for the tension knob as well.

Has anyone ever tried these out? The idea sounds great and way easier to sand in those tight spots. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ps-wood-super-sander-1-4-pinless-4-pack?gclid=CjwKCAiAoqXQBRA8EiwAIIOWshQYo4GTMa4A4q_1QNJQ9g711I3iOHs_P5ZpPMC6pPdchDjz0M2Y-BoCb3wQAvD_BwE

So I have officially admitted defeat that my Ryobi 16" scroll saw is very limited. I did however managed to get a foot pedal at my local Woodcraft and it has been a game changer. My issue right now is saw height and angle. I have learned that there is no stand to attach to it (to my knowledge). I've seen where some people have their saws tilted towards them that way it's ergonomic and way easier on the back and neck after scrolling for hours. Does anyone have any recommendations on tilting? I can on think of a 4x4 angled cut then bolted to the saw, then the saw bolted at the front to keep it still.

That's the exact answer I was looking for! I'm going to get some of that at HD very soon. This is one of the reasons why I joined this site.

Interesting. What's different between spray poly and shellac? I see on home depot's site they only offer clear shellac spray but offer amber brush/wipe on. I'm mostly focused on something that's easy to apply, natural to amber like color, and dries in a fair amount of time. I'm sure you all know when someone requests a craft, it becomes a timing issue.

What brand of spray poly would you recommend? I already have some of the clear spray that I never thought to use but I'm intrigued with spray poly to get that amber color.

Thanks everyone. I got some Watco Danish Oil last night then applied to my pine cutout. Didn't turn out too bad but I definitely want to try the spray poly that @MrsN mentioned.The oil takes forever it, super messy, and is hard to get in the fretwork. Here's how it looks so far. .

I've seen where some use spray lacquer and it takes no time at all as well.

So what would you go for to keep a nice finished look but stay true to the wood look while keeping the timing of application/drying to a minimum?

Alright so after a bit of research I have learned that tung, linseed, and danish are what applies more to the work I am doing. Thoughts on preference?

All my scroll pieces are for internal usage. I use rustoleum black spray paint on mdf (didn't clarify that earlier). I want that golden brown finished look instead of raw. I stain with minwax on some pieces. I have been told tung and teak oils make raw finished scrolls look really good but I don't know what's best for the wood I use.

Is there a specific wood oil and brand that works for all types of wood? I use birch plywood, MDF, and knotty pine mostly for my projects. I am heading to HD soon and need advice on oil selection that will last for a good while.