SCROLLSAW703

wow! That's right uptown! Get to truckin!

Beg yer pardon, Mr. Jerry. Ain't nobody said nothin' to me about a grammar class here. I kinda get things writ down the same as If'n I were talkin to ya, Sir. If'n that offends ya, my sincerest apologies to ya, Sir.

Sounds like ya probably oughtta get yerself a spray bottle & pour mineral spirits in it. Lightly spray the surface yer fixin to glue to, wipe that down with a CLEAN cloth & let it dry, then glue yer pattern down. If'n yer glue ain't holdin, ya ain't givin it enough time to sit after ya glue it to the wood, or the glue is old, or, they ain't enough glue on yer pattern to hold it in place. A feller should give yer fresh glued patterns overnight in order fer yer glue to set to yer lumber, otherwise yer gonna keep havin the issues yer discussin. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive on all my patterns after I tape the wood with blue painters tape. The patterns stick in place and I ain't got any problem with them movin.

Mr. Kevin, Yer Google hit the nail on the head, Sir! In country boy terms, I reckon I'd of told ya that fretwork would be most anything finely carved, cut with a fret saw, or smaller detailing cut in wood, metal, or other materials. Imho, fretwork, in our hobby, would be any finely sawn detailed project, sawn from the inside out in thin material for decorative purposes. That's my take on the subject.

Not to crash yer party boss, but, always do yer finish sandin afore any saw work starts, always. Next, my best advice is get all yer saw work done before any stainin starts. Especially if'n yer saw deck is aluminium. Cast Iron saw decks can usually go unharmed. Apparently, it sounds like you've already tracked stain onto yer deck. From here, were I in yer boots, I'd invest in some trip!e 000 steel wool, & if'n it ain't already in yer shop, fetch a can of Johnson's paste wax. Get to workin' that triple 000 over yer sawdeck. Yes Sir, it's gonna put a polished look on yer aluminium, but it'll get that stain off'n that deck, as well. Careful not to rub to hard in one place because it may pit yer deck. After you've shined that deck up, & all the stain is gone, wax it with a good heavy coat of Johnson's paste wax. Let it dry, buff it off & you're ready to make sawdust!

Mr. Ray, I bought a used one from a barber what was quittin' the business, & then I picked up a new one from the young lady what cuts the few hairs I have left. She said the chair weren't what she ordered, & she gave me a good deal on it. Scroll saw 703

I got myself a barber's chair to sit at my saws. I can adjust the height easily to all three of my saws. After I installed casters on all of them, it made movin 'em around easier, & I never needed to move my sit down. scroll saw 703

Man, readin all this chatter about the Hawk saws is like listenin to the news 'bout Trump!:( I'm lookin' to buy a 20" Hawk. I just called'em on the phone & got all the information about the saw I needed. They ain't a huge outfit like yer dewalts & such. They's a family owned & operated business. This time of year, they're busier'n a couple a tomcats in a gunny sack on accounta Christmas orders. Try callin of a mornin before noon o'clock central time & talk to Miss Nikki. Scrollsaw 703

Fergive me if'n I'm oversteppin', but, I use alot o' maple, & use flyin' dutchman blades. Now, if'n yer gettin' a racket like yer describin', & the thickness of wood, yer blade speed could be to fast, with to thick o' blade. If'n it's a burr piece, cuttin' is goin' to be slow on accounta the wood bein' tighter & harder wood, therefore requirin' a thinner blade, more teeth, & slower blade speed. My suggestion would be to go to a #2 or #3 polar blade, & slow yer blade speed down.

I don't use anything but FD & Olson blades. I've used them for years, I know their quirks, sold! I've tried Pegasus & some other brands, but I always come back to FD & Olson blades. I learned on those blades years ago, I reckon I'll just keep on makin' sawdust with'em!

Howdy Mr. Rocky, Good to see yer post, Sir. I have been in & out, seein' what ya guys are up to, but not much to tell about here. I'll pm ya. In my scroll projects, I use several blades in that size range, boss. Anywhere from #02 on up to a #5. I have learned, especially on my Hawk, on the smaller blades, a little more tension & and less blade speed, gets the blades to last longer, and really cuts downs blade breakage. Readin' thru some of what's already been throwed out there to ya, I ain't able to say as I go along with the wax on accounta I ain't never tried it. Plywood is hard on blades that small, as well as speed. As a rule, fretwork is fairly slow, steady cuttin'. I've found that Johnsons wax on the blades works better'n anything, an' don't seem to pester any of the lacquer or clear coat I spray on the projects.

In my experience, I have learned to drill your starter hole on the waste side of the cut line in a corner. Once your blade is thru and set, your angle is set, begin yer cut like any other cut, and follow the line. I have to say, here again, curiosity has this ol' country boy at a stand still.

FD & Olson blades both have just a "touch" of a right hand pull. To help compensate fer yer pull, 1) square blade to saw deck. 2) pre - stretch yer blades. 3) adjust yer tension just a little tighter than ya would normally. Yer blade speed will have some to do with yer pull as well on accounta yer blade is cuttin faster'n ya can react. Always be lookin at yer pattern lines ahead of ya so's ya got an idea of what's comin atcha, then ya got time to plan a reaction to move a little more right, or little bit left.

my apologies, but I ain't able to say as I've ever run across a "pre-sprung blade." In my experience, especially cuttin' pine, I always start with a new blade, regardless of the situation. When I install a blade, the first thing I have learned to do is adjust a minimal amount of tension on the new blade & run it for 30 seconds or so, then adjust the tension to my preference, & make sawdust. I've found by doin' this, it "stretches" the blade, & helps to hold tension longer, and the blade lasts a little longer, as well.