rash_powder

Did you ever get this sorted out? Lower arm - Being it is twisted ast it is, when you tension it, physics is going to pull the rear toward the frame and the front out. Why it is twisted and bent I cannot say. Some definite trauma in its past. It will need replaced. Upper arm - it appears your upper arm is not aligned, checking with a square is a fantastic idea. Be sure that your square is square though - adjust it all the way out, strike a line, flip the square left to right and it should match the first. If not, there are tiny pads inside the 'handle' you can file to adjust. The table will have to be dead parrallel to the base of the saw for that to work also, otherwise your square will point off somewhere else. Outside all that, there may be tiny grub screws on the bottom of your arms that impact the bushings. They are used to take up any minor slop that may be in the bushings. If your arms are excessively loose, try adjusting those screws or replace the bushings. It is possible that the 'C' casting is bent. That will be a bear to straighten and $$$ to replace. Ebay and time will be your friend in this. Or deep wallets.

Sometimes there is great creativity and talent involved in creating a simple, elegant solution to a problem; especially if the solution perfectly meets the end users needs/wants. All the sheaths look nice and are great.

If you can measure the RESISTANCE between the two wires, you will find the high value and low value. Head over to digikey and you should be able to find an adequate replacement that will fit. There may even be part numbers somewhere on it that you can use to find the replacement. All that said, you have what is called a potentiometer; it varies resistance from one set of pins to the other, with the middle being common. Think the balance adjust on your stereo. Using only two of the pins makes it function like a rheostat, which is just a fancy adjustable resistor. Think like the volume control on your stereo. Pots are far more common. Try blowing it out with air or contact cleaner first. It may just be the internals got a bit dirty. A common failure is 'dead' spots on the insides; that cannot be fixed.

Those of us who were deployed always said 'no news is good news'. Generally meant your family/buddies were still alive since bad travels faster than good. That said, best wishes for a full and speedy recovery to Steve!

I have a large sign I made myself several years ago but never hung. It was leaning against a bedroom wall and warped; so I put it in the bathroom to rehydrate. One shower and it straightened out, so I left it in there for a few days. A good, gentle steaming fixed it. Might work for your project, or other peoples.

No matter how hard you try, even following the line precisely, you will never get two seperate pieces exactly the same when cut individually. There will always be tiny errors/defects/whatever you want to call it because you are human. Cutting multiple parts at the same time will greatly increase success rates. Also, with pine, the grain can guide the blade in ways you do not want. I primarily use popler, but any wood can 'steer' the blade away from time to time.

I have read in the past that cupping occurs from the stock not equal air exposure on both sides, so one side dries more than the other. The solution was to get the hollow side wet as that side's wood fibers shrank more than the domed side; then lay the board wet side down to try and even the dryness out in the board. I have tried this with no success. I have tried to moisten boards and then press them flat and let them dry with no success. Whatever I am doing doesn't work out for me. It just seems that with kiln dried lumber if its cupped or warped thats how it is. Best of luck and very excited to see the results of your test. How did you get the cuts so good with that much warp? I would not have been able to keep them perpendicular to the face.

Are you talking bushings? McMaster Carr has a fantastic selection, as would your local machine shop. I have play in the bushings in the arms of my Hegner and need to replace them, just don't want to pay what they ask for them. They are most probably off the shelf components and NOT the $13 each that they ask. I rebuilt a John Deere snowblower auger/impeller with new bushings from the machine shop for far less than half what John Deere asked for all of them.

I found the site. tibbixel.com lots of stuff there.

An aquarium air pump kit can be gotten for about $30 and will come with a hose to run from the pump to the blower. Those pumps are dead silent.

Try looking for SVG files instead of clip art. I've found a site on Pinterest with gobs of SVG files for free. Clip art is kind of an outdated term for this stuff anymore. I'd share it here but not sure if that is allowed.

So I was just using inkscape and had this very same problem. The solution was to select the image I wanted traced. Then it all started working.

I have run into this too with some images; for whatever reason they will not trace. Yet others still do. I *think* it may be an embedded feature of some pdf files to protect copyrights.

If you have or know someone with a laser, have them lightly burn the pattern on the material. It will look as though it was drawn on.

I have seen blue print cabinets! The WAPA (Western Area Power Association) office in Fargo has several. They are legit 1960 furniture! All nice oak and heavy duty. I don't think they use them anymore, but being a government outfit it would be tough to get them. In our shops, we hang prints from sticks. It works well for the 4'x3' paper that engineering prints them on.