rash_powder

Sometimes there is great creativity and talent involved in creating a simple, elegant solution to a problem; especially if the solution perfectly meets the end users needs/wants. All the sheaths look nice and are great.

If you can measure the RESISTANCE between the two wires, you will find the high value and low value. Head over to digikey and you should be able to find an adequate replacement that will fit. There may even be part numbers somewhere on it that you can use to find the replacement. All that said, you have what is called a potentiometer; it varies resistance from one set of pins to the other, with the middle being common. Think the balance adjust on your stereo. Using only two of the pins makes it function like a rheostat, which is just a fancy adjustable resistor. Think like the volume control on your stereo. Pots are far more common. Try blowing it out with air or contact cleaner first. It may just be the internals got a bit dirty. A common failure is 'dead' spots on the insides; that cannot be fixed.

Those of us who were deployed always said 'no news is good news'. Generally meant your family/buddies were still alive since bad travels faster than good. That said, best wishes for a full and speedy recovery to Steve!

I have a large sign I made myself several years ago but never hung. It was leaning against a bedroom wall and warped; so I put it in the bathroom to rehydrate. One shower and it straightened out, so I left it in there for a few days. A good, gentle steaming fixed it. Might work for your project, or other peoples.

No matter how hard you try, even following the line precisely, you will never get two seperate pieces exactly the same when cut individually. There will always be tiny errors/defects/whatever you want to call it because you are human. Cutting multiple parts at the same time will greatly increase success rates. Also, with pine, the grain can guide the blade in ways you do not want. I primarily use popler, but any wood can 'steer' the blade away from time to time.

I have read in the past that cupping occurs from the stock not equal air exposure on both sides, so one side dries more than the other. The solution was to get the hollow side wet as that side's wood fibers shrank more than the domed side; then lay the board wet side down to try and even the dryness out in the board. I have tried this with no success. I have tried to moisten boards and then press them flat and let them dry with no success. Whatever I am doing doesn't work out for me. It just seems that with kiln dried lumber if its cupped or warped thats how it is. Best of luck and very excited to see the results of your test. How did you get the cuts so good with that much warp? I would not have been able to keep them perpendicular to the face.

Are you talking bushings? McMaster Carr has a fantastic selection, as would your local machine shop. I have play in the bushings in the arms of my Hegner and need to replace them, just don't want to pay what they ask for them. They are most probably off the shelf components and NOT the $13 each that they ask. I rebuilt a John Deere snowblower auger/impeller with new bushings from the machine shop for far less than half what John Deere asked for all of them.

I found the site. tibbixel.com lots of stuff there.

An aquarium air pump kit can be gotten for about $30 and will come with a hose to run from the pump to the blower. Those pumps are dead silent.

Try looking for SVG files instead of clip art. I've found a site on Pinterest with gobs of SVG files for free. Clip art is kind of an outdated term for this stuff anymore. I'd share it here but not sure if that is allowed.

So I was just using inkscape and had this very same problem. The solution was to select the image I wanted traced. Then it all started working.

I have run into this too with some images; for whatever reason they will not trace. Yet others still do. I *think* it may be an embedded feature of some pdf files to protect copyrights.

If you have or know someone with a laser, have them lightly burn the pattern on the material. It will look as though it was drawn on.

I have seen blue print cabinets! The WAPA (Western Area Power Association) office in Fargo has several. They are legit 1960 furniture! All nice oak and heavy duty. I don't think they use them anymore, but being a government outfit it would be tough to get them. In our shops, we hang prints from sticks. It works well for the 4'x3' paper that engineering prints them on.

You are looking to make a full size rocking horse? A bandsaw would be a bit more appropriate for that size of project. A 10" at the smallest. Ample power and throat capacity. 14" saws can usually be found fairly cheap if you look for a while. In my area about $150. Smallish things can be made on them also. I wouldn't say scrollsaw small but you could make a 1" or maybe a 3/4" wheel pretty easily. Unfortunately it would not do internal pockets without a little bit of trickery.

Ditch the foam. Bolt it directly to the bench and make the bench HEAVIER and be sure the bench is as RIGID/STIFF as possible. Nearly all saws have speeds they run smooth at and buzz or vibrate at. The simplest fix is a solid bench and weight - not loose weight either. Bolt everything together securely.

OK. As others have said very limited info here. soooo...... If the saw is off and pops the breaker when you plug it in, your fault is between the outlet and the power switch. I'm going to assume you have a foot pedal. Those pedals are easy to get crap in, so unplug everything, open it or look in there and be sure nothing foreign is in there. INSECTS ARE CONDUCTIVE!!!!! Many problems in my job have been caused by dead bugs on circuit boards shorting things. If that foot switch is clear, the next stop is the power switch on the saw. If you aren't comfortable opening the control box and poking around you are done troubleshooting. If you are fine with this, get in there and check that switch out, unplugged of course. If you have a volt meter, check continuity with the switch on and off, but be aware that you may need to disconnect/unsolder the switch from the board to properly test it. Should the switch test fine, you are into the circuit board. First look at it really close. Are there any burn marks? If so that component fail, catastrophically. If no burn marks, smell the board. If it smells like smoke or that really acrid stink electronics have when the smoke escapes, your board is toast. You can try repairing it, but without a schematic and proper test equipment its going to be a battle. Replace it. Should all look well with the board, its the motor. Check that it is free spinning, if it is not, figure out why. Bearings MAY be replaceable if you are willing to tear the motor apart and can press them in and out. Brushes may have worn and are binding on the commutator. Foreign items may have gotten in and shorted commutator contacts. The stator or rotor coils may have shorted. Look for burns. Smell for smoke. If its bad replace it, you will not find anyone that will rewind it. Past the motor, bearings in the arms and foreign objects jamming linkages. It may sound rude, but this is all basic troubleshooting. I know it may not be your thing, but you said you replaced the power cord - which i'm assuming means you unsoldered and resoldered the cord, leading me to believe you are somewhat techy. Good luck. Pics help immensly. Descriptions better than its broke, whats wrong even more.

There are a great many of these floating around. I am not sure of the years of production, just that there are many. I have my Great Grandma's Singer treadle sewing machine in a cabinet very similar. The bulk of its value is sentimental and only to me. They do tend to sell for more the closer you get to large cities, such as Minneapolis (I am located a short drive West of Grand Forks, ND). If you feel comfortable drilling into it, go ahead. That said, the cover should come off easily and a clamping mechanism could be easily made to secure the saw without causing much/any damage.

If you cut your wheels next to an edge so that the wheel stays round, but the saw breaks through the edge, that will give a natural exit point for the waste. With careful measuring and setup you could also place a relief hole at the outside edge of the saw kerf. A few relief cuts up the side of the hole saw may give waste a place to go. Other options would be to use the hole saw to make a pattern to follow - just cut a few mm's deep, then bandsaw, jigsaw or scrollsaw the part out. The drill press can be converted to a sort-of lathe; and hand drills can be used to power a more traditional looking DIY lathe. Sometimes you have to think well outside of the box to get the solution you want.

The original ShopSmith!!!

I've used oil stain on ornaments I make. I usually put it in a zipper bag, put the part in, and then massage it around everywhere. Parts come out, blot them dry with paper towels and hang to dry the rest of the way. Once dry, wipe them off again with a paper towel and they are good to go. I don't seal ornaments as I feel they don't need to be since they aren't meant to be handled a lot. I imagine them to go from box to christmas tree and back to box; so no need. No one has ever said anything about residue coming off them.

Since I scroll in the house, I have been using draft inducers from furnaces or water heaters for the vac portion of my dust collection. They work adequately and, while louder than a scroll saw, are quite quiet. I will say that they could use a little more CFM, but when trying to do it on the cheap, its what I could find.

A tip for drilling a 'square' hole with a hand drill. Some drills have a bubble on the back for lining up plumb. If your work surface is true, you've got it. If your drill doesn't, a small square will help. You may have to make one at the table saw to get it small enough but its all the same as long as it is true. Start your hole, and use the square at, say, the 3 o'clock position to check plumb, then carefully move the square to, say, 12 o'clock, and check plumb. Drill a wee bit and repeat. This is how it was done back when a brace was the tool of choice to drill. The important thing is to check for plumb at 90° to each other. With practice, you'll get to where you don't need it much. Also, with the wee little drill bits we use, they bend quite easily. You can not rest the weight of the drill on them or they will go where ever they wish.

I find the relative safety of a scrollsaw to be one of the biggest perks of the tool. Aside from the blade breaking and possibly spearing you, I just cant imagine how hard you would have to shove your finger into those tiny teeth that they would actually cut you badly. I've touched the blade while running at full speed just to see what would happen, and I have to say I get worse wounds from our cats when they decide to jump off you while being carried.

So this idea will still require some DIY or at the very least hiring a local. Menard's sells (if you have one local, I'm sure the other box stores have these) a prefab work bench top. master craft work bench top Its a bit narrow though. So you would need two, cut one down to the correct width to fasten to the other and make the correct width. Then its just make a base, and Menard's again can help. Work bench kit This has all the brackets and hardware to build a bench support, only missing 2x4s, which again Menard's has. Obviously this is not an off the shelf plug and play deal. But if you have a circle saw and something about 6' long and straight, you could break the top down and dowl/biscuit/domino them together and be on your way. Clamping might be a bit tricky, but you could stand it on edge with the heavy side up and that should be good enough. Best of luck!