BadBob

This is an excellent review. Much better to get a review from someone who has used it for a long time.

With very few exceptions, I don't use hangers. I hang things on tiny nails that I push into the wall with a small amount (1/16-1/8"), sticking out so they catch in the edge of the frame, slots, or other holes. The exceptions are things like key racks that get handled a lot. I have a map in a frame with a glass front that is 3 feet long and has been hung this way for more than 30 years. It works because the head of the nail digs in slightly dnd prevents the frame from sliding off. If there isn't a frame, I cut a narrow slot centered on the balance point. I used straight pins when I first started using this method, but they are too soft and bend easily when pushing them into walls.

I use QuickBooks connected to Etsy and upload any receipts I get. I don't use any phone apps or track any vehicle expenses since they are so small that it is not worth the trouble. 99.9% of my materials are delivered. Anything else is in Google spreadsheets. Whatever methods you use, they need to be backed up with copies off-site. My Etsy files are backed up in four places. Two of these are off-site.

I don't have to watch it, although now that you brought it up, I may have to watch it again. I shot a 45/110 once. Hit a steel turkey at 750 yards.

I do not like Bear Woods. I will not buy anything from them.

Food for thought.

This has got to be my most made item. I have made a few hundred of them with various finishes.

I put everything in an oven set on warm (200 degrees or less). I dip or brush the melted wax onto the pieces and return them to the oven. Most, if not all of the excess wax melts and either is absorbed or drips into the cookie sheet. I hold all the parts on Dollar Store cookie sheets and a cooling rack. Any wax that drips off, I pour back into the jar. I have finished hundreds of puzzles, toys, and ornaments using this method. You need to check the temperature of your oven before you try this. Some ovens will not go low enough. You can apply the wax at room temperature and use a heat gun. I did this for a while and found it to be a nuisance.

I use a custom blend of waxes and mineral oil, which I apply hot, but I am experimenting with dipping in clear shellac. For several puzzles, I now offer them made-to-order in three versions: unfinished, oil-and-wax, and shellac. It's too early to tell which will be the most popular.

I don't see a link on his blog to download the entire catalog. Do you have one? In any case, I think you should pay him for his work. I bought a flash drive from Steve several years ago.

If you haven't purchased one of Steve's "flash drives," you might want to consider buying one soon. If he dies, all of the free patterns will likely disappear.

I rebuilt my EX-21, and it wasn't a big deal. In fact, I have changed every replaceable part in the saw except the switch, which I don't use. Yes, even the motor.

Ocooch Hardwoods also does custom work.

I have a Pegas and an EX-21 scroll saw, and I bottom-feed. I had two other saws before, and AMT and Hawk. I never thought of top-feeding until I saw it on this forum. I tried top-feeding for a while and bent a lot of blades, so I don't top-feed anymore. The choice may depend on what you make. I don't make anything with internal cuts larger than about 12 inches. I can see where cutting large pieces might require top feeding.

Is Steve here?