Archer

I've found construction grade plywood in general works just fine for backer boards, not glamorous but necessary on a lot of projects. Hope this helps

I can always move it back, but I do think it could run smoother. But it runs nice enough now anyway. And just in time too, I got a time sensitive commission for a dozen alpaca magnets yesterday.

I think I've solved all the problems. Adjusting the arm stopped the lower clamp hitting the table. I had to shift the motor as far as the cord would let me and it could probably be turned further if I could but its running smoother now. The tensioning issue is just me and something I'll get used to in time. Thanks to everyone for the help, and if anyone knows how to move the motor further please let me know.

Thank you, unfortunately I live in Australia so calling Ray is not really an option for me.

As some of you know I bought a new scroll saw a couple of days ago. Its a like-new Taiwanese made Excalibur and I'm having some problems with it. As shown in the first picture the upper and lower blade arms\clamps are not aligned so the blade does not run square. As shown in the second picture the lower blade clamp hits the bottom of the table when the saw is running. I'm also having some problems tightening the tension lever but that may just be me I'm not very strong. Any information you all can share is welcome. Please help. Edit: since posting the above I discovered the top arm was not pushed down all the way. I pushed it down and that seemed to stop the lower blade clamp hitting the table. The rest of the problems are still there though.

Thank you. I haven't used it much yet but I actually like the clamps. They are an order of magnitude easier to use than the worn-out clamps on the Delta 40-540 I've been using. It runs smoother, too.

I'm very excited and wanted to share. I found this lovely saw on marketplace and took a ten-and-a-half hour round trip to pick it up. It's almost unused despite being about 15-20 years old and was stored in a dry shed so its in perfect working order despite its age. Its an original Taiwanese-made Excalibur, originally sold on the Australian market by Carba-Tec. I paid $600 Australian Dollars for it, roughly $412 US or 358 Euros at time of posting. I think I got a good deal, but please tell me your opinions.

I cut a lot of Steve Good patterns. The top photo is what I'm currently working on, I believe the pattern is called Triptych Horses or something similar. I am cutting it from silky oak. The other two photos are magnets I made a while ago, using Steve Good designs as a base. RIP Steve.

Answering your query on it not been user friendly - I suspect it is worn. The lever falls out every time I open it and most often the wire tensioner does too. I have to loosen the screw almost every time to remove the blade and then the clamp plates twist. Taking the blade in or out can take several minutes, although I'm getting a little faster when it cooperates. Sometimes it takes several tries to seat the blade properly but that may be inexperience - I've only used the saw about two months. If the clamp set-up did not fall apart every time I use it I would keep it, especially since the saw doesn't actually belong to me - it belongs to the local Men's Shed. My Shed mates are okay with changing the saw to be more user-friendly, though. The bottom clamp also works fine - the only issue I had was the blade popped out once, which I think was user error. Thank you for your comment and help.

I can get the Niqua blades from online supplier The Wood Works.com here in Australia. They cost approx. $1.00 each not counting postage if I buy them in bulk. They work just fine. Thanks for your comment.

I recently started using a Delta 16in saw. It cuts clean and straight and I like it but the blade clamp assembly is horrible. even after several months of using it the blade is still a nightmare to change. There is nothing wrong with the blade clamp itself but it is not user friendly. I know some people have swapped blade clamps on other saws. My question is, does anyone know if changing the blade clamp on my Delta is possible/a good idea, and if so, what should I replace it with? Thank you,

I use glue sticks too but I don't bother with tape. Here in Australia where I live the heat melts the tape adhesive into the wood fibres and clogs up the sanders. Glue sticks sand off easy and leave no residue. I used to use spray adhesive but glue sticks sand off easier and peel away less when cutting.

Magnets are what I make most. Of the thirty-some things I've made so far magnets make up twenty-some. The picture is a bunch of half-done magnets I'm making for commissions. Cut on a Delta 16in with Niqua reverse-tooth #5 blades. Woods used are bamboo, pine and silky-oak.

Yes. And I have some pinless blades that came with the saw, too. I'm talking about long term when I say I need a source of pinless blades. good thought, though.

Hello everyone, I recently obtained a second hand delta scroll saw. It is a good saw and I like it a lot. However, it uses pinless blades and I can't find anywhere local to me that sells pinless blades. My question is, where do my fellow Aussie scroll saw users get their blades? What brand is best? I'm looking for a reputable online retailer but I haven't been able to find anything yet. Any help will be appreciated. Archer.