Jump to content

rash_powder

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    248

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rash_powder

  1. rash_powder
    When I got my Hegner from the pawn shop it had a quick clamp on top; the lower I don't know what size it is. The smallest blade I have used is an Olson #2 and the largest is an Olson #7 or maybe #9. They all seemed to work correctly - that is the project was finished in a way I felt acceptable given my skill and equipment. Give what you have a go and see what comes of it. No need to spend $$ on parts if what you have works.
  2. rash_powder
    I used whatever seemed appropriate from Walmart. The one I had was adjustable and dual output, so I combined the two outputs to one. Seemed to work well enough.
  3. rash_powder
    What kind of motor do you have? The central vac ( I assume central vac) motor I have is a 3 stage unit and its quite loud. I don't have it in a seperate location though - my little DIY dust seperator is next to my saw all the time. I've got an old tread mill speed control to power it and the choke coil from the same tread mill to help with noise (some LED lights on the same circuit acted weird when it ran).
  4. rash_powder
    I have read that for bending wood you are going to want air dried rather than kiln dried. I'm not sure why that is, never seen anything that explained the difference. It may be tough to find air dried in the size you want.
  5. rash_powder
    Our engineering department at work has a scanner that can scan very large prints. No problem to scan prints bigger than those inserts. Maybe hit up a print shop, or better still an engineering outfit that is local to you. They will likely be able to scan things quite easily for you. They will also quite likely have a plotter to print out things as well as big as you like.
  6. rash_powder
    Those Metrovac's use brushes. They will need to be replaced from time to time, as well as the springs that force them into the commutator. Also, the commutator will eventually need to be serviced (which is a DIY procedure as no one does it on these motors) due to the arc eroding the material and causing surface imperfections that then cause the brushes to bounce causing arcs that erode material etc etc. I've been using a blower from a water heater or furnace for my dust collection. I think its a draft inducer. No commutator or brushes as I believe its a shaded pole type ac motor. It prob would be quieter than it is if it had good bushings; but I got it used and there is a bit of wear going on. I've been questing for a quiet fan/motor setup similar to a full size dust collector. I don't understand why we can't have a small, quiet fan/motor like that.
  7. rash_powder
    Menard's for sure has this, and sometimes Michael's, and maybe Hobby Lobby. 1/32" ply wood. It would probably be difficult to cut unless you stack maybe 8 pieces, but it would bend quite easily and being plywood it does have a bit of strength to it. Honestly, for that material, I would use a Cricut or a laser cutter. It would be far easier, IMHO.
  8. rash_powder
    Get some pieces of your most commonly used materials. Maybe scraps, or small bits to make small projects from; regardless your going to be experimenting. Then get a sampler blade pack with many sizes or tooth configurations; or just buy a several packs of blades you think may be right. Cut something; but the same something with diff blades until you find what you like. I did this on the fly with projects and blades. Personally I've settled on Olson Mach Speed #3 for 1/4" materials, maybe even stacked. A five is a bit better for stacked. I think Denny has some multi-blade packs to get a good assortment to experiment with. Good Luck!
  9. rash_powder
    Find yourself a custom knife maker and see if they won't forge a blade for you from them. There is a person on YouTube that will forge a blade from nearly anything - bearings, screws, steel cable, etc - just to see if it can be done and what comes out. Maybe one of the YouTube persons can do if for you
  10. rash_powder
    Bring your saw in the house. Mine is sitting in what was and sort of still is our tv room. Its under a multi-year renovation sort of thing and a disaster, so a little more dust doesn't hurt (i have a dust collection system connected). I'm in North Dakota, USA. I think our high for today was 11*F. Not sure what that is in Celsius, other than below 0. There wasn't much wind so that was good.
  11. rash_powder
    I looked at a parts list for the Dewalt, and the bearings look like they are not ball bearings; just plain bearings like in a car engine. I don't think they are made from the same material as auto bearings, but most likely are more of a bushing meaning they are made from bronze, which is supposed to hold the oil in the pores. I would still oil them whenever I could. I don't think grease is really recommended for bushings, but I have used Honda M77 moly paste on the bushings in my Hegner. Moly is some really neat grease - when the carrier oil burns off or dries up, the moly itself is still a lube; and its good to something like 700*F. Quite overkill for a scrollsaw, but if it works it works. If there are ball bearings in the saw, there used to be a product in the world of radio control cars for pressing grease into bearings.
  12. rash_powder
    Try Olson PGT blades. They are manufactured differently then a lot of the rest of blades. Instead of being stamped that leaves a slight burr and causes drift, the are milled. They should cut more 'straight' with the direction of push.
  13. rash_powder
    Right click somewhere on your desktop that isn't an icon. Choose display settings. Adjust the display resolution. It is quite likely the monitor you have is a different resolution than the previous owner used. Just step down through the options until you find one that fits. May help, may not. I'm not terribly good at remote troubleshooting; much better when I'm in front of the device. Hope this helps!
  14. rash_powder
    I haven't used or looked to closely at the little LED light strings. If they are wired in parallel, then just nip the un-needed off and tape the ends. Do this powered off, of course. The driver may not like to see a short.
  15. rash_powder
    An LED of whatever color you like, a resistor, small switch, and a 2032 battery are all that is really needed to build a light. A bit of hot glue to hold things in place and your done. Digikey carries all kinds of stuff like that, and generally gets things out quite quickly.
  16. rash_powder
    I've used a flexible cutting board. No idea the product name; got a pack of 3 or 5 different colors at Menards for about $5. Carpet tape held them on. They do wear out, but cheap and no wax needed. I also had a piece of 1/8" hardboard I stuck on to the table; also with carpet tape. I'm back to the aluminum table now. No reason, just went back to that. If I was doing a project larger than my table I would probably go with 1/8" hardboard. A frame could be attached underneath to make it more rigid and offer attachment points for legs if need be. Maybe put a poly coat on top and then wax it real good.
  17. rash_powder
    If I remember correctly, a website called Kaidomain sells LED parts. Mostly flashlight stuff, but that would work with the right power pack. Maybe a take a look there. Something may be there. Also, I think Banggood sells some LED parts too.
  18. rash_powder
    I didn't either until years ago on a motorcycle forum. One of the members was an aircraft mechanic and said that the FAA would shut an airport down for having Simple Green anywhere on site due to the corrosive nature and I think the graphite came up in the same post; or maybe from somewhere else. Its been a hot minute since it went into my head. Anyway, the relevance was that since motorcycles are primarily made from aluminum anymore, don't use the stuff. There's too much else to worry about when riding than structural failures.
  19. rash_powder
    No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever. Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away. Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away. Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc. Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience. The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed. My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about. If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.
  20. rash_powder
    They stick with magnets, or as said with small metal plates that they then stick to. I also use a lighted magnifier, and a small accessory light for an auto from Menard's. Its really a phenomenal amount of light on my work, probably overkill, but it makes things much easier when there are no shadows due to light from a single point.
  21. rash_powder
    I have a set of these 'sewing machine' lights. One on each side of the blade as close to the work as I can get them without them being in the way. Nice and bright, no shadows. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y66V128/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1
  22. rash_powder
    So if the tension is too high the blade will bow when released? I've been wondering a great while if I was tensioning correctly. The high c thing doesn't work for me.
  23. rash_powder
    It may be quite difficult to locate a manual for that. Dust collectors are quite simple machines, theres not much to be instructed on. Any bag or filter that is the correct diameter will fit. Flexible dryer hose will work, but there is a Powertec 4" dust hose that works better. Don't send big chunks through as everything it sucks up moves through the fan impeller. They can build a nice static charge so grounding the machine and the dust tube can help with static shocks. Thats about all I can think of that a manual might tell you.
  24. rash_powder
    If you don't care where they go, find a local charity (a LOCAL one, not a local branch of a national - those big ones are sketchy) and donate to them. They can use them at fundraiser sales for financial support. Locally for us, when I get to that point that I have extras, they will be sent to Turtle Mountain Animal Rescue or Journey Home; both are local animal rescues. Incidentally, if anyone near Grand Forks, ND is looking for a cat, we have are fostering a 1 year old that is good with cats, dogs, and kids, and just loves to be held and will even talk with you; we also have to 6 week old kittens who will be needing a home in about a month.
  25. rash_powder
    Pretty much every ornament I have ever cut came out of a 1/4" thick board that had a cup or twist to it. I try to be choosy and select straight and flat material, but its tough to find. Sometimes I feel the boards move when broken down to manageable sizes also. Do you guys just deal with it or try to flatten one side with a drum sander/planer/jointer? I have just been dealing with it as I don't have any other option; but have been seriously considering buying or building a drum sander. I also get some blade squeal from time to time, and I think its small gaps in the wood buzzing with the blade, so having one side nice and flat may help with that. The squeal doesn't hurt anything, its just wicked annoying. What do you all do?
×
×
  • Create New...