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Fireball

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  1. Poszgaidesign.com I believe. But the magnet seems seems pretty awesome. The only thing I would change is to get rid of the Allen screw and make some kind of handle so you could change blades tool free.
  2. You got this! I just started as well and I really benefitted from cutting some 3/4in stock. It’s so much harder to keep the blade straight because it’s so much slower. So when you jump down to 1/4in material it’s easier to rely on the blade to do the cutting. The first piece I cut I wanted to throw out but someone offered to buy it! I cut through three places, couldn’t cut a straight line, and definitely couldn’t cut a circle. I didn’t sell it but it’s crazy to think how critical we are of ourselves. I got my saw on Christmas. The nativity scene was my first go on dec 30. The girl was Jan 8 so there is hope. Just keep going slow. Let the blade do the cutting. And find something with irregular lines because you’re the only one that knows if it’s messed up! Straight lines and circles are the hardest for me.
  3. Good job! I bought the adapter thing from pozsgai design. It only takes about 10 mins to set up but it’s definitely not as cheap as the magnet! Great idea
  4. You gotta get some pull downs in there to stretch your back out! Honestly, I’ve used the weights to hold stuff together while glueing more than their intended purpose lol.
  5. I posted this in my beginner questions topic but I think it might serve better as its own topic. I recently built a house and ended up with quite a few boxes of vinyl click together flooring left over. It’s the life proof stuff from Home Depot with the underlayment already attached. I don’t know if that padding lubricated the blade well, but it cut like a hot knife through butter. I used one blade on the picture below. The piece never needed to be sanded before or after, no staining/painting, and the the edges don’t look to bad. Let me know what you think, or if I’m missing something obviously wrong. It’s 3$ a sqft, but not needing to prep or finish might be worth it?
  6. Thanks everyone for the responses! I finally found some time to sit at the saw and try the vinyl flooring. Wow am I impressed! As I said before, we had a bunch of life proof vinyl flooring from Home Depot left over from our house. It’s the kind with the underlayment pad attached to the bottom. Anyways, the picture below was done with 1- #9 Olson pgt blade. It really cut well, no sanding/staining/finishing necessary, and I really like the distressed look. Let me know what y’all think. The other picture is the under side.
  7. Wow guys thanks for the answers! Lots of different ideas to think over and put in practice. I have a Dayton 16” variable speed. It seems like it’s doing a good job for now. I would really like one that the upper arm folds out of the way now that I know that exists lol. Any ideas on the vinyl click together flooring?
  8. Also, has anyone ever used vinyl plank flooring? I have quite a bit leftover from the house and I’m hoping it will work. It has the backer already on it so I might have to remove that maybe?
  9. Hi y’all! I’ve been bitten by the scroll saw bug and I’m loving it. To be honest, it’s a little overwhelming. Between choosing the right blades, picking the kind of wood, finding patterns(choosing which to do first lol), and figuring out the finishing my head is spinning! Logically, I’ve got some questions and I’d appreciate any help y’all can give. 1. What do y’all use on the edges of a finished project with a backer on it to get rid of the line? Same thing with birch plywood. 2. Do I need to spray finishing lacquer over danish oil or Tung oil or stain? 3. Do y’all start in the middle of a piece and work out or some other way and why? 4. In the middle of a project do you have to take the blade out of both sides and feed it through? I’ve converted my blade change to the Pozsgai thing but I can’t lean the blade forward enough to avoid the top part where the blade slides in. I appreciate any answers y’all can give and thanks in advance!
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