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Wichman's post in Surface scratched up was marked as the answer
The table is not steel, it is cast aluminum. Care needs to be taken not to get to aggressive with the abrasives. When my table starts to feel rough I lightly go over the table with a 320 grit sanding sponge, followed by a wipe down with a blue paper towel and a light coating of paste wax.
You're not trying to get a mirror finish or an original table back. Just a nice smooth to the touch finish with a light coat of wax.
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Wichman's post in Tech support - Inkscape needed was marked as the answer
Inkscape, change default DPI
File > Preferences > Imported Images > (near the bottom of the box) Default import resolution, set to the resolution of the scanner ( 300, 600, 1200 DPI). Note; increasing the DPI will use more computer resources and will slow down your system, only use a high enough resolution to get the job done.
Import or open file resolution changes:
File> open> dialogue box ( in the dialogue box ) Image DPI, select "from file". Imaging Rendering Model, select "smooth"
In the trace bitmap sub menu you will have to experiment a bit. Some scans work better with some settings better than others, sorry.
Once the bitmapped image has been traced I cut the .svg image into memory ( Ctrl X ) and then paste it into a new document. I will then close, without saving, the original file. Before going further I will use "save as" to save the .svg file in the appropriate folder, with a name I can remember.
More tomorrow, I'm beat.
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Wichman's post in What Are These Patterns Called? was marked as the answer
These are Charles Hand patterns. He has ten patterns on his website.
https://scrollsawart4u.weebly.com/specialty-patterns.html
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Wichman's post in cant seem to get quick blade clamp on hegner to hold blade was marked as the answer
Allen, I use a Hegner 22"vs. the only time I have this happen is when the tension is too high. Before installing the blade in the top clamp try backing the tension knob ( in the back) off a full turn to a turn and a half. Install the blade. Move the tension lever back, you should not have any tension on the blade. Now adjust the tension; tighten the tension knob until you feel resistance, then tighten another 3 quarters turn. Pluck the blade; you should get a "ping" sound, not a "plunk" not enough tension, or a "pink" too much tension. I usually use 5 quarters turn for my FD Polar blades . Different blades and be different lengths and affect the tensioning.
Frank is trying to help but the two saws are completely different on how tension is applied and adjusted.
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Wichman's post in bowels on pined blade saw was marked as the answer
One method to use smaller pilot holes with pin end blades is::
1. pull the pin from the top of the blade with needle nose pliers
2. drill a series of holes to form a slot
3. thread the blade through the slot
4. replace the top pin with a safety pin ( used in sewing ).
I used this technique with my first saw, until I bought a pinless scroll saw.
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Wichman's post in Scrollsaw blade direction was marked as the answer
A reverse tooth blade has 7 to 10 teeth on the bottom of the blade that saw in the opposite direction, the effeect in thicker wood is that the fuzzies or rough edges are reduced.
Typically a reverse tooth blade will have an R in the name or abbreviation,
You probably need to look at using a much smaller blade, #1 or #2/0.
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Wichman's post in What kind of wood pops the grain when it is coate with clear shellac? was marked as the answer
You may find some answers at https://www.chatometry.com/.
The website talks about the reflective sheen of various woods and which species has more or less. This is problably why some pieces of wood "pop" and other pieces from the same species don't "pop".
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Wichman's post in Where to start scrolling on a project was marked as the answer
I couldn't get the pdf file to post here but there is a link. I've marked up the file as to where I would drill the holes and how I would start to cut the black cat pattern from Steve Good.
I would start with the tail. Drill the pilot hole near the "V" at the base of the tail. Cut to the "V" then back up to the pilot hole, turn the piece around and back the blade to the bottom of the tail. Now start cutting the tail ( if the tail starts to vibrate or you feel it may break, stop the saw and put a piece of tape over the cut section to stabilize it ) , finish cutting the tail. Tape the waste in place with packing tape to stabilize.
I would cut the eyes next using the same technique.
The rest of the internal cut would come next and then the out side. I would drill a pilot hole for the outside cut and do it in one go.
The arrows and numbering on the pattern are fairly small so you will have to zoom a bit to see them.
blackcat.pdf