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xocd

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    Isidro

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  1. In the comments the author writes: "La maquina que uso yo es electrica y es italiana la casa se llama colombo filipeti Son caras" (The machine that I use is electric and Italian. The brand is colombo filipeti (sic). They are expensive.) He does have other videos where he uses a treadle-powered scroll saw. xocd
  2. I watched a long (2+ hours) youtube step-by-step marquetry demo (in Spanish). In the comments section the author says that he controls the speed of his scroll saw with a pedal - "like a sewing machine", he adds. (The machine is a Colombo-Filippetti - an expensive, Italian-made, industrial scroll saw.) I do not know of any machine in the US market whose speed can be controlled with a pedal. Though this should be easily possible with machines that use a DC motor. Do you know of an after-market way to control a scroll saw's speed with a pedal? Thanks, xocd
  3. Just ordered some blades from Denny. xocd
  4. This is more a comment on my ability than on the blades: I find that, for now, I hope, Pegas 2/0 skip tooth blades cut too fast for me. I am learning how to control them. When I am dealing with a tricky section I use slower blades. xocd
  5. On an iPhone you press on the video and hold. It will offer you a menu on which you can pick "copy url". I do not know about Android, but imagine something similar. xocd
  6. Duels have been fought on this question. I have used a chevalet and I much prefer the horizontal frame saw. It is as accurate as I need, much simpler to make, and easier to use. But I am a tyro. There are important professionals, who have much more experience than I have, that swear by the chevalet: e.g., Patrick Edwards of the San Diego School of French Marquetry. It seems that they trace their lineage to the École Boulle in Paris. (Though Boulle himself did not use a chevalet, as the chevalet is a 19th century invention.) Jack Metcalfe, expert on Chippendale marquetry, swears by the horizontal frame saw. In the video below you can see Patrick Edwards gleefully using a frame saw, though he is a chevalet evangelizer:
  7. You should be able to get the link by right clicking on the video. xocd
  8. Depending on the motor, it might be possible to add an external speed control. xocd
  9. Last one, I promise:
  10. A different frame saw:
  11. Yes, but I need both hand for moving the wood, and both feet: one to treadle and the other one on the floor so I don't fall off xocd
  12. This video shows Jack Metcalfe operating his frame scroll saw (the model for mine). It might be a bit sped-up:
  13. Let me first get a tripod mount for my phone. xocd
  14. The saw in the picture is my version of Jack Metcalfe's frame saw as shown on his book on Chippendale marquetry. The saw consists of two rectangular frames made out of 3/4 baltic birch plywood (using pocket holes). Between the two frames there is a set of two bog-standard drawer slides that serve as linear bearings. One of the frames is stationary and is clamped to my workbench in my basement shop via a horizontal member that is screwed to the stationary frame. The other frame holds the blade and moves up and down. Pushing on a pedal (a short length of 2x4) brings the frame down. A lath of white oak acts as a spring to bring the frame back up. Right now I have a small piece of 1/4" plywood screwed to the horizontal member serving as the saw table. I should make a better version, but I am having too much fun playing with it as is. In this version, the throat of the frames is 26". I.e., the maximum size of the piece can be no more than 13". The frames can be made larger, of course. The blade holders are from an outfit in Barcelona that I bought a few years back when I was visiting. I think I could make equivalent holders with in my shop with some work. Tension is controlled by the big wing-nut on top of the upper holder. It is designed with marquetry in mind: i.e., to cut a few layers of thin veneers using a skinny blade. It might work for 1/4" bbp using a #3 blade, but I have not tried. Features: The blade moves strictly vertically. (For some definition of "strictly") One can use a lot or as little of the blade as one wants on each stroke One can control the speed and length of each stroke independently, which is great for tight turns Sawing goes goes surprisingly fast Quiet Vibration free Very light and easy to store as it doesn't have its own stand I feel much more in control using this saw than when using my Excalibur, even at its slowest speed. I haven't yet, but I think I could use this in my kitchen or dining room and not scare the horses. xocd
  15. As commented in a previous topic, my Excalibur saw was breaking 2/0 blades. (I use 2/0 blades for marquetry.) Leaving slack on the blade before tightening solves the problem, sort of: blades do break every so often, when there is not enough slack; and, the tension on the blade is erratic, sometimes too slack. The saw was not giving warms and fuzzies. Sawing was not fun. I took the plunge and ordered the Pégas chuck-heads. Installation was a breeze, once I found a 7mm wrench and a 3mm hex key. I am happy to report that I am not breaking blades and that the tension on the blades is consistent. Also, the saw seems to run more smoothly; this could be a figment of my imagination. xocd
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