Millwab
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Everything posted by Millwab
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Tim, I noticed the dowels but thought they were decorative since finger joints are inherently very strong. Just curious why you didn’t glue them.
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I was looking for a small vac to use with my SS. HF has this one on sale and I was wondering if anyone here has one and could comment on how loud it is. Thanx
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Dick, I’m not much of a pattern maker but my concern when first looking at your pattern was how well the face was supported. It didn’t look like there were many bridges to hold it in place. Charlie's edit looks like it answered that.
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Bob, I too have an older Hawk w/round barrel bottom clamps. When a blade would break the clamp seemed to always fly to the right side. I got tired of searching the floor for the bottom clamp when a blade broke so I taped a piece of cardboard to the top of the stand on the right side. Now if a blade breaks and the clamp goes flying the cardboard keeps it from leaving the top of the stand.
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Paul, are you sure about that? The clamps that came with my (used) saw have that dimple but when I measured the gap it was 0.020” (.5mm - small clamp). I ordered a pair of .7mm clamps (mid size) and they don’t have the dimple on them.
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Kevin, look at the gap sizes in this picture. With the clamps open take your feeler gauge and measure the opening. This will tell you which clamp sizes you have.
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Matt, FWIW I was looking at the Hegner website for some parts and noticed the Multimax 18-V was on sale for $1495.
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Here’s one example … https://www.olsonsaw.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2020-scroll-chart-WEB.pdf here's another … https://www.bearwood.com/media/all-blade-types-chart.pdf
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Stopped by my local Harbor Freight store today to pick up some mats to use under my treadle saw that were on sale. While I was there I stumbled across these "micro drill bits." They didn’t come with an index, but for $2.99 I couldn’t pass them up. Unfortunately (for me) they’re metric but a quick search for a conversion table gave me a ballpark size. They ranged from 0.5mm (~#76) up to 3.0mm (~#31). If you’re interested in just a small hole for blade entry these should do just fine.
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I had the same trouble until I started using this adapter with my full size drill press. Holds the small number bits without a problem to drill inside entry holes.
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Paul, I’ve made a few of these from the same patterns. What I’ve done is cut it all out of one 1/4” piece. After cutting the emblem and lettering I separate the center (emblem) from the middle ring (lettering) and the middle ring from the rope by cutting at an angle so that the layers come up but get locked in half way. Then I just tack them in with a hot glue gun. I add a waving flag picture to the inside of the backer that is seen through the emblem. It looks like your middle ring is recessed relative to the rope and emblem. Am I seeing that correctly? Gives it a neat look. Love the stand you made for it. Is that a pattern you made up?
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Copied this from the Gwinnett Woodworkers Association for my educational display at our county fair. Thought it summed it up pretty well …
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Rick, I have a treadle saw I use for demonstrating that uses a round leather belt. I happen to live near an Amish community and can get the belting locally, but they are available online (McMaster-Carr is one place I’ve seen). Once you cut the belt to length you connect the two ends with a wire connector. Sometimes you have to use it for a bit, let it stretch, and then snip the end off and reconnect the wire. Not as big a deal as it sounds. They also have hollow core polyurethane belts with quick connectors, but I prefer to use the leather belts to stay as true to original as possible. Here’s their link to give you an idea of options … https://www.mcmaster.com/round-belts/ This is my ~130 yo beauty
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Paul, I’ve done a bit of sawing over the years using an old Delta Milwaukee 14” that has to be close to 70 years old. They didn’t power them back then like they do now so I can’t bull my way through a cut. What I have found out is that using the right blade makes all the difference. I now use Highland Woodworking’s "Wood Slicer" resaw blade. I’ve cut even the hardest of woods with ease and with the right technique I have very little sanding to do. A couple passes through my thickness sander and it’s ready to go. Here’s their info on it if you’re interested https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Welcome+to+the+Highland+Woodworking+Community&utm_campaign=HTML+welcome+email+-+0320
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If I’m not cutting it along the color lines of the picture I cover the picture with shelf liner and draw a grid on it to keep my rows & columns straight. Either horizontally/vertically or on a diagonal depending on how many pieces and how difficult I want it to be. Then it’s freehand cutting the locks. An interesting twist to the diagonal grid is that all the outside pieces are triangles that don’t interconnect except in the corners. -
If you liken it to using a table saw, they make blades specifically to rip (cut with the grain) and blades to crosscut. It has to do with the way the fibers are aligned in the wood. Think of scrollsaw blades as designed to crosscut. When cross cutting the saw cuts (shears) these cell fibers across their structure. When rip sawing the saw is cutting the cell fibers along their length cutting through their structure. When cross cutting the dust is fine and clears from the blade easier, when ripping the saw dust is "stringier" due to the structure of the wood cells and doesn't clear from the blade as well staying in the gullets and slowing down the blades ability to cut.
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Thanx Ray. I’ll check the auto parts store tomorrow and see what they have. Did you need to use the band clamps or was the fit tight enough? Charley, I was hoping to not have to add another device on to the saw. I think the previous owner (not who I bought it from) must have used one because the air tube was cut in half. I don’t use a foot switch because of my back problems. I need to keep changing position while I’m sawing and a foot switch would make that difficult.
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I was able to pick up an old Hegner Multimax 2 for $50. The only thing I can find wrong with it is that the bellows needs to be replaced. I checked the Advanced Machinery website but they don’t appear to offer a replacement. Any suggestions?
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Mark, the picture is glued to an 1/8” ply backer and the emblem glued to the picture.
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My demo stint at our county fair yielded a number of custom orders for military plaques. One was with a twist. It was a Navy plaque and he wanted it mounted in a shadow box with a picture of the ship he was on in the background. This was the result ...
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Thanx Dan. I checked them out and a can of stain would cost more than what I’m being paid for this project. Since this is a one-off I couldn’t justify it. Decided to try plan "B" and thin down some acrylic red paint I have on hand. Just hope I can get the color even enough with my eyes.
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I’m hoping you all could help me out. Being "chromatically challenged" (color blind) I normally stay away from staining or painting a project. However, I’ve gotten a special request and I’m making a two-tiered plaque out of Baltic birch, the outer ring being comprised of connected hearts. I thought I’d either paint or stain the hearts to get a washed out red effect for contrast (I’m not looking for a bright red finish). Do you think it would be better to use thinned paint or a stain to accomplish this? If paint, how much should I thin it? If stain, what color would give me a reddish hue? Appreciate your guidance.
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Okay, thanx. I’ll get them ordered
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Wayne, I’ve seen rubber plugs from other sources, but Meisel only has polyethylene recessed plugs now. Before I ordered them I was wondering if there was any advantage to the rubber ones.
