Millwab

My FIL used to have his machines in the garage year round (NE Ohio). He would always make sure to wax them well before putting them away for the winter to keep from rusting.

When I’m attaching a hanger to 1/4” substrate that isn’t very heavy I do the same thing Jim does … the nails that come with the hanger can easily be trimmed to fit and hold well.

Kevin, like Dan it’s my go to for my puzzles. Besides giving you the depth of the picture it also is supposed to be a little flexible after it dries which may give you cleaner puzzle cuts (?). I don’t think it comes in anything but gloss, but that works best for me with the puzzles.

From today’s blog … Dear Scrollsaw Workshop subscribers, we are heartbroken to let you know that Steve unfortunately suffered another heart attack over the weekend and passed away on Monday, March 2nd, 2026. We were able to be by his side until the end, and we know how much he sincerely appreciated the hundreds and thousands of cards and messages with well wishes and prayers over the past few weeks. He received several handmade gifts that he cherished greatly and had displayed in his room. Every time you cut one of Steve's patterns, please know that you are keeping his memory alive and that he will always be with you. The visitation will be held at Scott Funeral Home at 2515 Veterans Parkway, Jeffersonville, IN on Monday, March 9th, from 2:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. with service to follow. In lieu of flowers, we have decided to keep his website up and running for right now, so any donations to Scrollsaw Workshop would be appreciated to help cover costs of running the blog as well as other expenses during this time. This can be done by going to: https://www.stevedgood.com/donate2.html We will send another update in the next few days with more information on the future of the website. For now, all of the patterns are still available for you as always. We will do our best to respond to messages, but please understand that this is a busy and difficult time for our family. Thank you for your support over the past 20 years. Steve was so proud of his work with Scrollsaw Workshop and cared for each and every one of you. Love, Patty, Kellie, and Family

Reminds me of the last package I sent. Cleveland to Detroit (destination was between Detroit and Lansing). Detroit sent it to Cheyenne WY who sent it to Denver CO then it turned around to Kansas City to Indianapolis and back to Detroit then to Lansing and finally to the PO that delivered it . Whew! Glad I didn’t have to pay Mileage on that one . Only took 10 days to make a 2 day trip. And that was without any weather issues.

Archer, in the meantime (while you’re waiting for new blades) couldn’t you just drive the pins out of the blades you have?

After spending hours cutting a tray puzzle some of the puzzle pieces delaminated! And on top of that before I could put the backer on the frame it "potato chipped" about 3/8” over a 12” length. I had to scrap the whole thing and start over again . In over hundreds and hundreds of puzzles I’ve cut over the years I’ve never had this happen! (And before you ask, I was using 1/4” Baltic Birch and both sides were sealed before cutting). Frustrating beyond words.

Found this in one of Ray's old posts on this topic from Amazon … Kit Empi 86-2340D

That’s what I did when I bought a used Hegner that needed a new bellows. If I remember correctly it was less than $15.

This one is truly made for under the tree. It includes a load of coal, a Christmas tree, and barrels of egg nog

Nancy, I actually use the saw while I’m there. I prep myself with small puzzles I can cut and give to the kids. Also a good way for me to use up pieces of ply that are too small for much anything else

On the eve of my only "event" of the year. I participate in our local county fair in a building called Heritage Village. It's a collection of people showcasing crafts of the 1800s. Besides my scrolling we have a potter, soap maker, weaver, blacksmith, and glassblower. I take my treadle scrollsaw along with an assortment of scrolled projects. It is a grueling five 10-hour days that tends to wear me out, but for once/year I've been able to survive so far

A friend asked me to cut a puzzle of her dad’s MG. He built it by hand from the ground up over a number of years by either going to swap meets for parts or sometimes fabricating them himself.

Kirk, I looked through the most applicable subfolders (religious, word art, misc) and couldn't find it. Can you link to it for me? Thanx

Ray, I’ve been using these PureBond panels for a few years now for my puzzles and have not had any issues with delamination or voids. And a bonus is they deliver them for free!

So detailed. Just curious what takes you longer; designing the pattern or cutting it

Shelf liner doesn’t have the tack that tape has and is a lot cleaner to peel off

Currently working on inventory for the one "event" I do each year. Starting with puzzles, word art, and portraits before moving on to other things. Examples include …

Instead of a nail set, before I start cutting I’ll use an awl to enlarge the exit hole from the drill bit. It cleans up any tear out there might be and gives me a better target to thread the blade through.

@OCtoolguy Ray, I had the opportunity to cut another portrait out of 1/8” ply today but I only had one frame left for that particular size so I didn’t stack cut it. I still wanted to have a thicker stack for blade control but didn’t want to waste a good piece of ply, so I covered the ply with shelf liner on both sides. Glued the pattern to one side and glued the cereal box cardboard to the other. This kept the cardboard in good contact over the whole piece. After cutting the portrait both the pattern and the cardboard peeled off cleanly and there were zero fuzzies on the back side of the ply. It was so clean I couldn’t tell the front from the back! I guess your idea worked

Ray, I don’t usually do much portrait work (I cut mainly puzzles) but I did cut one today. I used cereal box cardboard behind 2 layers of 1/8” ply and it did help a lot on eliminating the fuzzies on the bottom piece of wood. My only suggestion, if you’re a bottom feeder, is to make sure the printed side of the cardboard is against the wood. It can be challenging to find the holes against the pictures/writing if the inside (plain side) is inside and the print is out. DAMHIK

Steve, why don’t you just use the cedar fence pickets for the letters too? The cedar would hold up better outside than the MDF.

I have a Walnut Hollow wood burning kit and found that Wall Lenk can make a custom logo that screws into the tool. Only possible drawback is the logo can’t exceed 0.75” x 0.75” (which worked for me).

I’m not a "royal watcher" but if I’m not mistaken Charles wore the same crown as Elizabeth II did. I think Camilla had a different one.

Chris, have you tried covering the bottom with shelf liner or a thin piece of cardboard (like a cereal box)? When I’m cutting 2-sided puzzles and want to minimize any fuzzies I put clear Contact shelf liner on the bottom. Works well for me and comes off very cleanly.