rafairchild2

Rather than trying to do a sharp turn, do "nibbles" to make the sharp edges. If you look carefully at the attached image, you can see how I nibble the wood to create the 90 degrees.

I think I posted this already, but this is the jig I made for cutting my chess pieces. I placed 200 grit sandpaper in a couple of places inside and added springs between the thumb nut and the jig. I get very even pressure as I cut, no slipping. 2nd image is a close-up including the spring.

Thanks! Right now I am doing the Neo-Classical. I am using black and white Limba. It cuts perfectly, as it is 670 Janka. I am using #5 FD UR blades for most, and also Pegas Skip #10 skip tooth. For cutting the bottoms Here are the black Limba pieces, I am now doing the white, 4 pawns are done. You can see by the off-cuts, that I put a finish on, how they darken up. I am planning on selling this one. What would be a good price? I do add 2mm cork on the bottom of each piece too. I go into surgery for my arm tomorrow, 3+ hours under full anesthesia with ventilation. I am looking at 3 months of recovery. Hope to get light use back in 3 to 4 weeks. I will be on Short-term disability for a month from work. I will be doing some writing, I'll share in another post.

Just wanted to post the Venice-inspired finished chess set. The only other thing I did was add 2mm thick trimmed cork to the bottom of the pieces. FYI, I just started a neo-classical chess set using black limba for the dark, and white limba for the light pieces. Looking at the two cut-away wood, you can see what the BL will look like when finished. I have to admit, I love the look 'dry', as the contrast is fantastic. PS: That is my 30" Pegas scroll saw in the background. I love it!

Actually I am not, but will do as suggested as it makes perfect sense. Thanks. But I am getting there. Only 3 more to go before I start sanding. Ignore the wrong placement of the king and queen.

Arrrggg... My first blown piece! What a let down when I "crack the egg" revealing what's inside and to see this. All that wasted time. My issue I am struggling with is drill bit deflection. I have to use smaller bits as the inside cuts are rather small. I try to drill in a little, then back out, drill in some more, back out, etc... I even use surf board wax to minimize friction and heat, but in this case to no avail. With the deflection it also means the scroll blade starts in a wonky place. After threading the blade I felt the weirdness and knew something was not right. At least I can say, I have completed 27 good pieces before getting my first bad one. Yippee! So I am open to suggestions on drill bit deflection prevention, and what you do. I thought I did everything to prevent it. I have double checked everything to make sure my bit is 90 degrees to the table. But I do believe it is because of how hard the wood is, and some of the harder grain is causing the issue on the small bit. The drill image is the bit that I have to use. And yes, it is fairly fresh bit.

I keep my air compressor hose by me when I am sawing. A few puffs top and bottom once in a while keeps everything dust free. Then 1x/month or so depending on how much saw time I have I use a spray ceramic coating (automotive) on the cutting deck. Spray, wait 30 seconds or so, then wipe off with a paper towel, let it dry for another 5 minutes before using. Everything slides nice, nothing sticks. Once a week, I open the big garage door and bring in my leaf blower. I blow the floor clean.

I got the patterns from the book "Making Wooden Chess Sets" a Fox Chapel book. I am actually looking for a civil war pattern, anyone know of one? And you are right about about only doing a few pieces in a session. I find the amount of concentration, making sure that I am making identical pieces to be physically and mentally draining, thus I goal myself one or two a day, sometimes three. Granted, I do fit in other projects, such as yesterday I also finished a few toys intended as gifts to one of my bosses at NATO, who announced he will be a first time grandfather. He was speaking to me at a branch going away party Friday. We are losing 6 officers this year. Turkish, Spanish, Italian, British, Hungarian and French. They come to NATO HQ in Norfolk for a 3-year rotation.

Thanks for the tips on using the Super skip. I forgot I had bought 4 or 5 dozen of the #10s, knowing I would use them sometime. I got them when they were on an overbuy clearance for cheap. After adjusting to how the blade tracks and travels I think I got a good handle on dealing with the ash a little better. Finished the King this AM. Only 5 more Pawns to go! Then comes sanding. I do love the weight of the ash for sure, as well as the walnut. PS: One trick I learned a while back, when cutting the perimeter, do not cut across the bottom on the first side. Only do it on the 2nd compound side, this way the piece stays anchored in the body, and does not bounce. It also gives you the most accurate and flat bottom minimizing putting it on the belt sander to flatten the bottom.

I just did a piece with the #10 Super Skip. Yes, easier to cut on the straights, but I found it lacking when I wanted to 'nibble', as this is the technique I use on sharp turns/edges. I am trying to adjust how I cut to accommodate this. I also find that sometimes my piece will jump really hard, as I set up for the angle. I noticed a few 'dings' where I got some jumping. I'll stick with my FD UR for the inside cuts since they are small, and use the SS on the perimeter cuts.

As I was leaving for base this morning, I checked my blade supply and found a bunch of #10 Pegas Super Skip tooth. Will give them a try when I get home today.

I think I have some sample Pegas skip tooth blades. Will give a try on my next piece.

Let's just say selection of wood is critical in anything you do. in this case since I am cutting 1.5" thick stock I made the bad choice of using ASH, rather than say Aspen for the light pieces. I used walnut for the dark. I actually started cutting this back in October, and got the dark pieces done, then got on to the light. What a struggle! I was so frustrated back in October, I put it away unsure if I was going to finish it. I had already gotten done the rooks and Knights when I stopped, and was debating if I should just banadon the ASH, and change the wood. But nope.. I wanted my pieces to have some heft/weight. So I pressed on. On the back row pieces, I go through 3 to 4 blades per chess piece, 1-2 blades on the pawns. I am using #9 Flying dutchman ultra reverse. I went thicker blades so I could nibble, but also have more blade to dissipate generated heat vs the #5's. It is slow going and I have scorched the wood a number of times on some of the curves. I actually had to slow the blade motor speed way down, and I do a lot of "nibble" turns and angles. Wow, this really is beating me up. Of course sanding and using Danish oil to finish are the final steps. I go in for arm surgery in 3 weeks, so I will lose the use of my right arm for up to 6 to 8 weeks. So I need to get this done as I am thinking of giving it as a gift to my NATO Branch head (Italian Colonel) who rotates out of NATO this year. This set is inspired by Venice. Just needed to vent.

You allow your dog to poop in the shop????!!!! For Shame.... for Shame!

I now have 2 grandsons, and of course I am always making toys for them too! Welcome aboard!