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Carterian429

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  1. Thank you to everyone who replied and shared such great insights. I checked my drill press and found it was on the lowest speed setting (about 600 rpm!); I adjusted it to the 2nd highest (around 2100 rpm) and tried a new bit (Dewalt cobalt steel). I used the same piece of plywood for backing, and just held the baltic birch plywood to it by hand as before. The resulting hole was nice and crisp, with no delamination at all. The bits I used before (TiN coated bits that resulted in delamination), I would say, had not seen much use. They were purchased as part of a lower priced set... I guess I got what I paid for... It would have been better to separate variables (testing a new bit first, then testing a higher drill press speed separately), but a higher quality, new bit at a higher rpm certainly resolved the issue.
  2. Thanks for the input, I should have said that I was using a drill press. I'll look at the rpm, and I appreciate the thought about the top layer being pulled up as the drill goes through and starts into the backer board. I'll try a new drill bit first, and then clamp if I need to. Scrappile and Wichman, I appreciate you replying and giving such good advice.
  3. Thanks, I appreciate the advice.
  4. That really looks good! What a great piece of art, and a great reminder of what our Lord and Savior does for us every day.
  5. I'm up against a problem I haven't seen before. I am new to scroll sawing; this is my 2nd project that I am starting. I have a piece of 1/2" baltic birch (BB) plywood that I was using to make a horse (Steve Good design). I'm using a backer board when drilling for the inside saw cuts, and I'm still getting delamination of the BB on the backside (exit side for the drill bit). I'm using a 1/16" or 3/32" TiN coated drill bit, but it isn't new and I can't say for sure how sharp it is. I'm just surprised that even using a backer board, I'm getting delamination. I've used plywood and OSB as backer board material, and it doesn't make a difference. The problem occurs where holes are closer together (1/4" to 5/16" separation). Do I have to sand the back of the BB after every hole to make sure it's flat when making holes this close together? Any thoughts or advice will be appreciated. Thank you.
  6. Thanks for the hospitality. Jerry, I live in south Utah county, about an hour away from the SLC airport. We've lived in this area for almost 40 years now.
  7. Thank you for the feedback. I've asked him the same question (about using 5" blades), but I haven't got an answer from him. His scroll saw is a Jet SS-24. Jet has provided a PDF of the manual, which says it should work with 5" - 6" blades. However he is quite convinced that he has used 6" blades on it with reversed teeth at the bottom, so I've been trying to help him locate some.
  8. Hello - I'm new here and just posted in the 'intro' section. I'm just starting to learn how to scroll. My father in law also has an older scroll saw, and he is looking for 6" reverse tooth blades. Does anyone know where they could be sourced? Olson makes a standard 6" blade (not reverse tooth) but I'm not having any luck finding reverse tooth 6" blades. Thank you for any help.
  9. Hello - This is my first post. I live in Utah and am recently retired. I recently bought a used Hegner Multimax 18 scroll saw and am just learning how to use it. It was built in 1999. I got it from the original owner's son, and it appears to be lightly used. I have been making other wood projects (bandsaw boxes, cutting boards, rocking benches) for a number of years, but this is my first attempt at scroll sawing. I'm looking forward to learning a new skill. Thanks!
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