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woodknots

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Posts posted by woodknots

  1. Jeff, even though you've been doing it for a while, I think the problem is that a 1/8" blade is just to fine of a blade. It is recommended that a person use a 3/16" blade for this type of work, is there a reason for using the 1/8" blade? When I cut bandsaw boxes, I use two different blades. For the longer straight cuts (mostly exterior) I use a 1/4" blade, then I change over to a 3/16" blade to do the rest of the work. 

    Len

    I only stated doing this for awhile was repairing the blades on my 10" bandsaw that i made name type key chains. The key chains is about all I've done on a bandsaw until my wife found this ridgid at a yard sale. As for using the 1/8" blade I figured for making tight turns it would be better. I think I found the problem the dust collector connector that is on the bottom door had teeth marks on it so it might have got caught on it  along with the tension. I repaired the blade a second time and after doing the flutter test recommended by timberwolf for the tension setting and it cut fine. I also ordered a 3/16" blade that came in yesterday and put it on and it works good.

  2. Cool blocks are not metal so that is not the problem. What is the plate made of??  If it is metal the blade is probably catching on it because of all the turning and when you do alot of turning with a thin blade you will heat it. Are you doing the welding of the blade?? I assume you know what you are doing if you are. Sometimes the smaller blades twist and hit the blade guard. May check that. 

    I am the one repairing the blade I bought a wood river bandsaw brazing kit a few years back. I have fixed about 10 or so blades in that time frame with no issues it's saved me time and money as well. If the repaired blade breaks again 9 out of 10 times it breaks in new location. I bought it to repair blades on my 10" delta a picked up at a yard sale it broke blades like crazy.  

  3. Ok it is zero clearance but its wider than the blade. I'm using a timberwolf  1/8" blade and the curves were non existing really. Here are a few pics one is the zci and one is of the first cut i made before the blade broke and the one with the writing is and as were the blade broke both times. As stated in original post i repaired the blade and it broke again in different place. I always use blade wax. 

    post-5315-0-18120200-1477483992_thumb.jpg

    post-5315-0-29308900-1477484006_thumb.jpg

    post-5315-0-42422300-1477484014_thumb.jpg

  4. I've been making bandsaw boxes of late well total of 4. Well the other day i decided to change the steel blocks for cool blocks and put in a new zci. Then I started to cut the second round of boxes well the blade broke and it was a new blade. I fixed the broken blade and put it back on and it broke in a new spot. Is there something i might be doing wrong it can't be the new cool blocks? I thought i bought a good blade its a timber wolf. Any help would be appreciated thanks Jeff 

  5. Thanks for the responses. I had a wood slicer for my craftsmen saw and wasn't happy with it but most of the problem was the saw. I'm hopping this ridgid saw i picked up will be a lot better when i'm done with the upgrades. I'ts identical to the grizzly. I picked it up for $150 from a guy my wife got my the dewalt scroll saw at a yard sale a couple weeks ago.  

  6. I bought a used ridgid bandsaw and I'm looking to buy new blades, such as a resaw blade and one for making bandsaw boxes. I'm looking for best brands to buy and I'm sure there are many opinions like with scroll saw blades. I ordered a riser block to go from 6" resaw capacity to 12" capacity and that will take it from a 93 1/2" to 105" blade so looking for best place to get them from. Thank you for your opinions, Jeff.

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